freebo86

At a loss here. Start the ATV it fires up. But the idle is all over the place. If I tap the throttle I either feel like I have to power or the idle jumps to like 3800 and stays there. The engine just isnt running. No clue what’s going on now as I did t touch anything else.

Also, at the other TDC mark the rockers are super tight, no play. I’m assuming this is exhaust stroke?

So took another stab it. I’m pretty sure I was at compression last night too. But I’m double checking it. so I pulled the starter rope and the wheel turns, it gets easy and then turns a bunch on its own with no real resistance. Then it gets harder, piston raises. TDC mark lines up. Rocker arms have some wiggle room back and forth. I set it to .006.. is this correct? both lobes are down, valves springs up. I can see the cylinder in the spark plug hole.

Thanks. I was using those instructions but totally missed the TDC at compression word. I could have been on this stroke or not, I'll have to recheck tonight. Guess that happens happens with lack of sleep, lol. So easiest way to find compression is to stick finger the spark plug hole and watch for cylinder to come up, once that occurs check the flywheel and watch for the T to show and line it up?

So buttoned things up tonight, it started fine. Mind you the battery after yesterday’s cranking read barely 12V. I took it to the store today it load tested good but needed a charge to I trickle charged it while I finished with the valve stuff. Put it all together it started good, but there is a pinging/clanking now when I give it throttle. What could cause this? I missed the part of the compression stroke being at TDC so how do I determine that? This may be my issue? Tried to check the idle using the inductive meter and it was low, so I adjusted the idle adjustment screw now the stupid thing revs up like mad I can’t even turn it back down. Almost has a mind of its own.

welcome! What was your issue?

Lol is the tolerance not that bad then considering the gaps were at .014 vs. Spec at .0006? Haven’t buttoned it back up to try was getting late last night. Will do today. And report back. Took this video last night before starting the valve adjustment. Here is the screen reset I mentioned. Took a video as it’s worth more than my explaining.

I’ll have to check some thing. So I got out tonight to start with the valve adjustment as this think could use a tune up just by the sound of it. I don’t think this valve cover was ever removed by the feel of the bolts. needless to say I was able to fit a .013/.014 feeler in there.. so it was quite out of whack. Set it down to .006. here is a screenshot of the spark plug if it gives away hints to the experts. This is a new plug I install 200miles ago. Half tempted to pull the carburetor and clean? Thoughts? Or leave for another time!

Informative post @retro. Thank you. I’ve pulled each and every connector and added di electric grease already. Guess I’ll have to start from one of the other action items and worn my way down. this issue also seems to occur after the engine is warm, has been ridden. Now that it’s in the garage tomorrow morning I can go in it’s gonna fire instantly. Wait a week or two - same thing fires away. start it and go for a drive, take a break.. it struggles.

Like the screen resets itself, starter is turning but no firing. I think I’ll have to adjust the valves I find this thing sounds like a ticking time bomb.

Well the adjuster nut was loose. Tightened it up and works beautiful. No slack, brake doesn’t catch. Went riding today to test out the Perfex Kit as well as that new steering bearing. Wow. What a difference in steering feel with the new bearing, steering is super tight and responsive. No play. Also I’m happy to report my jerking to one side has been resolved by the shoot lower shock bushing I swapped. The Perfex Kit, certainly feel a difference in ride - much smoother. The ATV almost has a floating feel to it. I’m running 27x9x12s tires at 4psi. Mind you the trails now have some hard packed snow but there is still the seaboard waves but it absorbs it much better now. Wish it would of just gave me more clearance in the front.. New issues, these were happening prior to but it’s gotta get fixed. As I mentioned after riding for a while the ATV is hard to start going to start with a valve adjustment and checking the vacuum that retro recommended. But when I noticed tonight, when I push the start button it tries to start but the display blinks and goes off/resets and comes back on when it won’t fire. Other times again, works flawlessly fires up on first hit of button. it cranks and cranks the screen goes blank then comes back ON. Common symptom? Easy solution?

The rear adjuster is loose, I'll have to verify it. The cable is new, looked identical to the one I removed. Routing of it was following how the existing which was the original I would assume done. Yah the cam that's posted on here, was after a quick pass with the flap wheel, I had spent more time cleaning the that cam, greasing etc. It had a much smoother finish when I was done with it. I can always pull it off and inspect inside the brake drum to see how it looks after the few hundred km's done on the machine since it's all been replaced. The JB Weld, not sure how much that would affect this as the crack was way down in the lower portion of the area of that backing plate that had no interference with the shoes? But ya never know. I think the wing nut on the brake cable for the lever worked itself loose personally?

I replaced the rear brakes as well as a new rear cable. I don’t think they stick, but I guess tightening the nut in the rear would pick up slack in the cable?

Well finished things up tonight and wired in the rest of the gear. Fired right up even after sitting for 10+ days. relocated winch solenoid to the rear box, was getting too crammed below the seats and the wires were getting mangled. one of the floor boards was cracked so I drilled some holes, used zip ties and then JB Plastic Bond. For the time being until I can source a decent one used for a fair price. I also took the time to check the rear two wires where I questioned what it’s for and they in fact get energized when either lever is pulled or the foot brake. So it’s for a rear brake light. My question though, on the rear brake lever, now that the light would indicate braking I noticed the lever doesn’t get pulled back once it’s pulled. The spring shown there (rests against the reverse switch post) almost doesn’t havent the tension it needs to pull the lever back into position to depress the little contact switches. I looked at partzilla but couldn’t determine if this is how it’s installed but looks like it’s the only way really. Anyone have some insight?

Little disappointed to be honest with how this looks at this point.

Just to add. So my 04 Foreman has been sitting now turned off since Jan 3rd since I've been doing some work to it, never made it further then just turning the Ignition to ON to check my circuitry on accessory wiring. Last night, things were buttoned so it was time to start. Fired up like a champ. Now once its warmed up, starting is another story, @retro gave me some troubleshooting on that I need to check.

Well buttoned things up tonight. Appears this lift kit didn’t really give me a lift. The rear end, yes but the front no. The rear was close to 1.75” the front 1” if that. Not sure why that’s the case. the rear looks jacked up now vs. the front. Also, noticed tonight the High Oil Light when I turn the key to ON isn’t quite consistent anymore again. Where it lights up strong for an second then turns off instead it’s dim. Looks like failing fan control unit..

perhaps something of stronger built is needed. I’m sure someone is gonna chime in with theirs that’s made out of 1/2” steel 🙂

How do you keep that front skid plate (aluminum) so straight and not mangled? Mine looks like !.

Nice thread! Gives us newbies something to see and get inspired by!

It doesn't, you are correct the shock mount won't clear the bushing, so the second setting cannot be used with my ATV. The reasoning behind is this that this kit is for a RX 500 Rubicon 2001 - 2004. It's not hitting, just the angle. The bracket only had interference at the bottom there where I trimmed it back a bit, not hitting on the shock tube.

The brackets do look flimsy, I do agree. But prior to ordering this I read numerous reviews and forum comments on this kit and that it's quite sturdy and folks took a beating on them without issues. The bracket does flare out a bit more and has meat over the bolt. The second hole is for the second setting to provide a lower lift & firmer ride. The bracket hole to a-arm lined up flawlessly. The shock had to be slid up with a small prying to retract to get it to seat and then let it get to its resting place and the bolt went through. The bolt holes did line up once I trimmed the bracket a bit back if you look at the below photo. There is also washers on the inside of the bracket between bracket and shock mount. I reached out to @jeepwm69 as he has quite a few of these kits installed on his machines to see what he thinks of this install. Where do you see it rubbing?

Sharp eye! But yes, the rubber bands are also in place and holding it, the zip ties were extra protection lol. Not needed? 🙈

Got it put in. Wasn’t as bad. Took a bit of wiggling to get the shaft into the diff but it got on and everything lined up. Put majority of the machine back to there, drained the diff fluid and refilled to proper level. Pushed the ATV back and forth with no odd sounds coming from diff. Installed the front lift for Perfex and had to modify the brackets slightly to work with my 450 as the kit was for a 500 Rubicon. With the new shock mounts in order to line up lower shock bolt with this bracket it makes the shock sit on the a-arm. Would this be a issue?

Man I am totally lost, I can’t understand what you did? Are we talking the bigger rubber boots? That look somewhat like axle boots but not ribbed?