freebo86

why no wet sanding?

What polisher you buying? Post pics of progress!

I think a DA polisher would help you. Princess Auto has them, PorterCable at CanadianTire too (I use this for car detailing). Curious to see how it goes! I plan on doing this to mine once I get all issues sorted.

Subscibred. Suscribed. So your stripping it to refinish? What are you going to us?

Someone say my name? 🙂 The brake light harness was in fact what mine had, I tested it and the light comes on with Foot or Hand Brake. Looks and works great. The bike itself? Not so much, still have issues.

Yup, baffle was there. Rubber plug as well, quite securely seated in there.

So I took another look. Noticed this. Anyone can confirm if this is supposed to be threaded and seated all the way down? It’s the main jet holder. Feel like if I pull more to get it down I’ll ruin the threads.. This is how it was installed previously too, can’t make it out in the service manual..

@jeepwm69 maybe I can return a favour and give some advice vs. taking it all in! I had a pulling feel on my machine too, turned out the lower shock bushing was gone. When I checked the bushing on the shock while installed it was tight, only did I realize how bad the bushing was once I removed the shock to do other work that the thing was basically completely gone.

I like your optimism, because the carb is the easiest and cheap fix lol.. I’ll pull it again.. anything in particular you want to see? I’ll check the stuff again.

I’ll take it apart again and see, but I looked at every jet, needle component for wear marks and tip ends to ensure they were looking good. worth taking note of what jet #s etc are inside the carb now? what’s your thoughts on engine sound in the latest video? Or is my level of acceptance just dropping and I want this thing running lol

How do we tackle it @retro? Rebuilt kit? The needle clip was on the 3rd setting (oem). What ya think if I raise it by 1 to get the needles it down further as it seems my throttle on the 1/4 to 3/4 isn’t there? Worth the time?

Actually find a better photo of it on my phone. Looks like it is OEM. VE93C written on it.

Yes. See below.

Here is a clip for today. Before I messed with the air/fuel screw. Sounds pretty good? Even on throttle the engine don’t make noise..

So guys, I think I may be onto something here. I went out to start the bike again, it started I decided to adjust the air/fuel screw, got the idle bang on at 1400 and steady wasn't jumping around, bike was running without a hiccup on engine. No clacking nothing. let it warm up. Went for a spin the usual takati/tak noise but it seemed less? Got back, turn bike off. Try to start and it fires up. I check the throttle it feels alright, could use a bit more pep, engine sounds good. I decided to adjust the air fuel mixture a bit again, as luck would have it my front wheels were right against the garage entry which is like a raise lip so there is some resistance there to get up.. so I try to drive in and bike basically won't go over the 4-5" lip.. throttle 100% in.. then all of a sudden surge of power comes through and it takes off. I'm starting to thing there is something going on with this carb. When I pulled the carb, down at the air fuel mixture screw I noticed there was markings on the post that the screw goes in. I think the PO may have done stuff down there or maybe even inside the carb even though even looked good. What's your thoughts? We still thinking chain (can someone provide me a part # to the chain, I found the OEM but looking for this D.I.D chain..) & tensioner? Or Valves?

So when basically run the bike to warm up. Pull the valve cover and plus. Stick finger in spark hole and turn the flywheel and try and feel the suck and push through exhaust and compression strokes at plug hole?

One ahead of you bud, took plug out last night it was a bit wet at the very end of the threads. Put it against frame there is sparks. Took the plug that the bike came with (has been sitting my drawer for 2months) same spark size etc. Stuck that in, still no fire. went out this morning. Bike started fine. So it’s a warm starting issue.

Well, cleaned the carb and reinstalled in. Bike fired up like perfectly, strong start and all. let it idle for a few minutes an engine sounds healthy. No noise. The below video is seconds after I started it, never touched throttle. I will say, video camera amplifies the sound it sounds bad on the phone in person it doesn't sound like anything. Took it for a spin, seems to run good. Still has the tikiti/takati sound once its driven... drove around the block, pulled into driveway. turn it off at this points its warm. it won't start for the life of me. Crank, crank, crank nothing.. - So, it won't start when warm. - Idling there at 1700.. I adjust the idle screw.. it maintains around there, hit the throttle it blips up.. then comes down to like 1100.. WTF is going on. Pulling my hair out here... 😪

Yes sir. Got a compressor and I will do that part as well, also have carb cleaner on hand.

Thanks, appreciate the words of encouragement! Want to invest financially now to help me out? 😝 I did. After that R&R I checked my repair at the time to see if the exhaust system had leaks anywhere by plugging the rear muffler hole with a rag while engine running, the bike started to starve itself and was about to die. So I think we can rule out any sort of exhaust leaks? With a leak, the pressure would just leak out elsewhere and engine would keep running, no? I can tomorrow. The recoil starter is already pulled. So turn the crank clockwise, watch for valve opening, that is the adjusting end/where the spring is starts moving up towards me. Right? At that point go 2-3 degrees counter clockwise and watch what happens. Spent this evening pulling carb and taking it apart. Surprisingly for a 17 year old bike, the unit was very clean inside. There was mud caked on the exterior, that I cleaned off using a toothbrush and gas. Then went to work inside of it. The jets and everything looked good, the slow jet looked like it had something in it. Its all soaking now in some gas overnight and tomorrow I will clean it thoroughly to put back together. I followed along the service manual, checked the diaphragm and it also looked was flawless, no tears and it moved freely. I measured the pilot screw and it was about 2.5 turns out, so almost just a bit less than spec calls for 2-5/8s and it very well could have been 2-5/8s.

You guys missed the below sentence? Listen to the engine starting at about 1:25minutes. Do you hear then still? From my video post on that page.

Well if I rock that rocker back and forth as in towards the valve and back it has movement (the gap I set obviously gives it room to move), every video I saw for doing valve adjustment it seemed like this is perfectly normal? No wear marks on them. Not my photo, but this is what the underside would look like. Where exactly am I looking for anything odd? It is friend. I fired up the bike this morning before heading out, to hear it sound and see. It starts beautifully, better than before actually. Runs dead quiet. I tap the throttle and the black smith gets to work. Or as @Fishfiles says on the road to a disaster.. Even at one point yesterday, after taking it for a spin around the block. Pulling in, the idle settled and the engine sounded healthy...but then the black smith comes and goes to work.. he's not a consistent worker.

Can you be more specific what you mean by rocker arms? Again, engine terminology I am not too familiar with. You mean these circled? Lack of lubrication wouldn’t that have caused a disastrous failure at this point of ownership?

What’s that mean, wore on the pins? There no noise at all until it warmed up a bit. Doesn’t sound as catastrophic as we first maybe has all believed or maybe questioned?

So you talking just gasket or a full rebuilt (jets etc..)? I see price ranges from $15 and up. What particular brand? All Balls? Moose? Shindy?