freebo86

I did. The piston, top head and jug are all off.

First positive news in this thread. Decided to order a new cam chain, D.I.D since im this far in anyways. Need to check the guides. Is the tensions supposed to be this far out?

Another question, service manual calls for a special tool to pull the clutch off when nut is off. Really needed? I got a impact, I can pull the nut but will the clutch just slide off?

Want to see if we jumped time before going further with the tear down. Just a test boys, not setting time now want to see where time is and what it looks like and if we skipped a tooth or two. Just for a peace of mind. Chain looks stretched, thoughts? Tensioner too? I still don’t understand which tensioner everyone is replacing? The one that mounts case down with the two bolts from the top or the one that’s inside the case? didn’t feel like pulling clutch out tonight.. too lazy.

So took the recoil starter off. Turned it under the T, on the view port and recoil end marks line up. I looked at the cam in the front the the punch marks lines up with the casing notch. I just can’t tell if the lobes are down or up? If I keep turning until next time T is shown, then the timing punch mark on cam sprocket is 180deg off from the casing..

Yes that I understood. I guess my question is, does it matter if it’s the T on compression or exhaust stroke? Because the T will show in both instances.. does exhaust or compression even matter for checking this alignment?

Bump, no info? Is my assumption correct that by aligning the T either in the view hole or by using the pull starter line, the timing can be verified on the front chain and cam alignment marks? It doesn't matter if its Compression or Exhaust stroke for this. Considering it cant be determined which one it is since the top end, valves etc. have been removed? I know on compression the lobes are pointing down, but how can you confirm this I guess through the engine hole where the cam followers can be pulled from to see if lobes are up or down?

Exactly. That's why I asked if it matters if its compression or exhaust for the timing verification. Obviously if it matters then I can't verify it or don't know how?

Thanks friend. I had the pull start cover off a few weeks ago, as I used a socket to turn the crank to align the T inside the view hole in order to set TDC for valves. And your right. pain in the !, due to angles etc. I will pull the start cover off again and see for the marks I didnt know they existed back there. So align pull start marks, then look at view hold should be at TDC (hopefully) and then look at the front to see where the sprocket and camshaft marks line up with the casing.

Ah! Ok, yes where the pull starter grips to turn the fly wheel - makes sense now. Ok so line that up and then I can check to see where the chain sprocket is in relation to the casing alignment mark at the front? And see if I have skipped a tooth. The service manual talks about looking at the little view hole at the side of the flywheel to align?

Thanks. Yes thats the time markings on the chain sprocket and camshaft retainer? Does the engine need to be at TDC? And if so, does it matter if its Compression or Exhaust matter?

I have a impact, that's not a issue.

I used the wrist pin last night to check for play at the rod. No up down, what so ever. I took the calipers again and measured the wrist pin throughout various locations the measurement was consistent down to .001 mm and within service limit. I would like to confirm if the chain timed time, based on the photo and limited view I have currently it looked like the chain is stretched. Before I started this entire procedure I had set the engine at TDC, compression, well after last night pulling the front cover the clutch turned a bit which of course threw the TDC off. Now my question is, can I just align the flywheel at the T again and check the alignment marks? I guess does it matter if the T is at Compression or Exhaust stroke? Still need to evaluate how big of a rabbit hole we go down.

Well here is the front engine cover. I haven’t pulled the clutch off to get a clear shot of the chain. This triangle piece came off when I pulled the cover as I had to wiggle it off with limited room. Your input is appreciated. I am not sure how much info the full rebuild I am into...

Here is the cam followers. Left is exhaust, right intake.

I measured the rod bore with my calipers and they were within the service limit. Which direction should the rod have slack in? Exhaust to Intake (left-right) or Engine Top-Down? I will have to give @retro suggestion a try and push the wrist pin through and give it a pull/push wobble. What is the cover and screen you are referring to?

Here is a few more photos. Hope I got most of that you want. Rings are not sharp feeling. don’t see any cross hatching the bore, looks to be shiny. Didn’t check wrist pin.

Well cylinder head is off. Parts are on table. I took a inspection of some of these components and from my limited knowledge they look fine to me. But I’ll let the experts chime in. What’s of concern looking to me is the exhaust valve. But again, who am I to judge. - Few things I checked. - Wrist pin within spec - cylinder head is not warped - Push rods are true and straight - the rocker cups? Are good inside that the push rods push against. - cylinder looks good too, no scorching. - Piston has carbon build up - Took the top ring off the piston, pushed it into the cylinder head square measured gap between and it seemed to be within service limit too. - Some build up around the piston at the top looked like old oil? Some photos. What’s everyone’s thoughts? If you need better photos let me know. Didn’t pull the front crankcase cover tonight that’s tomorrow’s task.

Here we go. Struggling to get cylinder head off,

9k km or 5.6k miles. it’s private. Has a video of it running prior to removal. Bought it for the bike frame etc. Didn’t need the engine ... so he says.

So stumbled on this.. 2001 450ES engine.. 9k kilometers on it. He wants $600 for it. Says has a video of it running prior to removal. Offer him $200 lol and gut the parts out of it? What's it actually worth? Look @Fishfiles even has the shift control motor lol!

Very very far from there lol.

I hear ya lol. Anyways, went to the local dealer pricing isn't as bad as I had anticipated either. Guess stay tuned for part photos tonight of the stuff removed.. I'm sure everyone will be excited about that. I looked at the service manual for checking some tolerance on the rings, head, valves not sure I'll be able to determine some of that if its within the service limit. So how we determine if my components are good or bad.. I'll leave to the pros on here!

No go amigo on the package. I got some buddies around, that have connections to machine shops etc. that I can probably get the piston/cylinder etc. figured out if needed come time.

The mechanical aspect isnt what's scaring me. I've had my fair share of mechanical experiences (non ATV) related. I got the place, tools and means to do it... Its more or less the ATV value + time + cash investment that is required where I am sour about. And trying to figure out is it worth it. Bundle that with the fact I am missing out on some fun times now due to this.. I get a bit angry. Lol. Anyways, I've done some Shopping Carts with a few of the items mentioned to get a idea of what cost I am looking at. Of course that will all depend what is actually worn and what is needed as per @retro. Plan is tonight to take the top off to inspect that, then after that front engine cover.