freebo86

Is it worth the hassle you think? My fan spins by hand but its not like it keeps spinning forever once I push it, know what I mean? I still need to tackle your suggestion for the air cut of valve to see the whole carb issue still 🙂

Interesting. I thought I saw a exploded view of it on the service manual?

Well next thing on the list that is clean out the fan motor. Going to dismantle it to whatever level it can be and clean, grease and seal it. Should of done this when I had the oil cooler out but I'm hoping this fan can come out without the removal of the top plastics but just the little black side piece.

Yo ur right. I went looking tonight and only ONE hose actually is connected on the air cut off valve. I was getting the lower hose confused that’s connected on the carb itself thinking it was on the air cut off. Here are the photos of the hoses and how their connected. I’m pretty sure those is correct. So your suggestion is to disconnect the hose between air cuff off and carb. The one that’s at the top. Does it matter what end? Plug it and see if there is a difference?

Yes and that the battery needs to be healthy and able to provide its capability.

What’s with limiting to no stock on ATV tires? Is this the after effect of COVID finally taking a toll on supplies and manufacturers not able to keep supply?

yah, maybe getting replacement boards is the best approach. I do like that idea. May get the feet a bit dirtier but maybe these could be found fairly cheap in classifieds.

There is two places that a hose connects to on that air cut off valve... both locations goes to opposite side of the carb. which one are you referring to?

the holder is there. From memory it threads in so not sure how it could fall out? Does it matter which vacuum line I pull out to plug? It connects on either side of the carb.

Playing with the pilot screw does alter the idle. But it almost seems like it’s at the extreme on both ends. Like wide open (almost fully out) or almost fully in.. Which holder are you referring to? The white plastic little piece that sort of just sits around the main jet?

So since I got the ATV I’ve spent a fair bit of time underneath it.. and I found it odd that the skid plate ended short before the shift motor and that the front portion wasnt really protected. After closer inspection I realized that it appeared that the skid plate wasnt quite complete and he broke part of it off. The two front mounts were ripped off (nuts gone), the OEM plate was held on by the 3 rear most bolts. So out came the grinder and some 16 gauge metal. Once I get my gas back for my welder I plan on trying to reweld the two broken nuts on. For the time being this thing is held at the very front mounts and I welded on some side tabs that bolt onto where the footwell rails go. For the rear this thing slides above the OEM plate by about 2-3”. I drilled the two holes out in anticipation for when I fix the OEM mount location. The other random hole in the front end is for front diff drain. Excuse my make shift paint both. primer drying before we hit it with black.

At TDC compression couple of things you will note, - You can wiggle the valves a bit back and forth by hand. On exhaust stroke TDC they will be very tight. - your cam lobes will pointing down. Sequence of events as you turn the flywheel or pull the starter rope: exhaust valve opens, exhaust valve closes - T shows up but this is exhaust stroke. intake valve opens, intake valve closes, T shows up again. This is compression. Run through turning the flywheel and watch the valves for a few revolution and you’ll get it bang on which stroke is what. Took me a while too. Are you able to get a reading across the battery on your bench? with the ATV cabling completely removed? If no, battery is toast and probably internally shot. If it it works on bench but not ATV then I’d say some cabling is fried that’s breaking your connection. Most likely a ground.

So I noticed the brakes on the front felt a bit spongy, so my curious self decided to open the master cylinder and see what’s going on and inspect the brakes. Well the front brakes are shot, the PO installed Disc Brakes upfront (Quadrax). The master cylinder fluid looked fairly dark and looked dirty. In the process of trying to loosen the two Phillips screws at the top I stripped one to the point it had to be drilled out to remove the cover, the other I managed to pull out barely. Got new pads off Amazon, we’ll see how long they last. The fluid I sucked up from the cylinder and cleaned it out, then filled with new DOT3 and pumped and bled the brakes till new fluid came out. Handle now feels much firmer and grabs right away. Old pads, basically none left.. The “guide pin” if we can call it that... Cleaned up well, applied a bit of grease over it also. For the screws I went to Home Depot, they didn’t have M4x.70 pitch in my store. Closest I found was 8x32. I grabbed a couple of those in stainless steel. Got home and used my Tap&Die set and cut the screws to a M4x.70 pitch to fit into the master cylinder. The 8x32 are just a bit thicker so there is some ‘meat’ on them to allow you to cut them to the M4 thread type. At this point the machine has new fluids all around. I got another update as I’m in the process of painting something I build for the ATV. We’ll see what you guys say.

Yes, oem carb. 2.5 turns out. Cable is smooth moving. Already checked this out.

OEM carb, checked the number on it that it’s in fact the OEM one. @retro confirmed this a while back with me. Carb has been cleaned and rebuild (shindy kit). Plunger is OEM Honda from the dealer. Cable is smooth moving. I checked it as well. unless something with the enrichment passages is still a bit buggered/blocked?

Thanks. The plug is wet and dark when I try to start it and it won’t actually start. So it’s getting fuel. So if the enrichment valve isn’t sealing good against the carb bore you would think it would still start? Because when I remove the enrichment valve completely it runs and I feel the air sucking in the carb bore where it was. So with the enrichment removed it’s getting extra air, no? I will try and lean out the mixture and grab the other type of sparkplug

Thats a good memory. The one I "fixed" has held up for the past 500 or so miles. Brake works too lol. But I am still on the hunt for one locally.

Something else I noticed, I am running spark plug DPR6EA-9 which is rated for cold climates. The standard plug is rated for DPR7EA-9. Don’t think this will make a difference but should I maybe switch plugs anyways and go with the standard?

There fixed terminology.

So, as some of you may know me from the “adjusted valves, now machine is a time bomb” thread, I’m back with some questions. So as I’ve resolved my other issue(s) and didn’t want to clutter the old thread I decided to start this one. I was out last evening messing around with the choke to find the “sweet spot”. Here is my issue/dilemma. If I mess around with the choke enough where the bike warms up a bit I can get it to a point I can’t start it again. Only way to start the bike, is completely pulling the enrichment valve out of the carb. Hit the start button, bike cranks and turns on - obviously running bad as now there is no enrichment valve anymore installed. If I do a full cold start, with enrichment valve installed If feather the throttle, once I get it warm it idles good. I am trying to understand what on the enrichment valve could be causing this issue with starting issue bud it’s obviously not as bad as previously. Am I getting lack of air? Because it appears to me if I pull the entire enrichment valve out, I get more air in the carb and bike starts? Am I understanding this correctly? So why wouldn’t it have the same effect if I pulled the choke knob out?

Now that things have settled a bit and the machine may be running half decent time to continue this thread. While all the repairs were undergoing and I was waiting on parts. I ended up installed a 3rd Brake light. The machine was all pre-wired for it, the PO had removed the light I guess but the switches, wires and all was in place.

That's it? It dont get rid of scratches tho?

What you do to get the plastic popping like that!

This is all good info boys, but dont forget I'm in the Cold North. They dont ship up here and even if they did it would be more hassle than its worth. Got a 10.9 Bolt same size from the store, and I'll drill out my own collar from 3/4" round stock. $2. 😄

Going to swing by the fastening store today and grab the bolt. Parts fiche calls for a 10x62mm flanged bolt, OEM $10, plus the Metal Collar ($10) that acts as a spacer. I have a hard plastic spacer I can make work just need a longer bolt as all I had was too short.