freebo86

Interesting on the location of your calipers, my kit (Quadtrax) Canadian spin off from SuperATV the calipers sit towards the front half of the rotor/bike....

That was my intended idea and understanding of it. I wouldn't cut into the existing wiring either I would just simply put a switch inline and add those barrel connectors and potentially the switch could be removed from the equation in the future with the exception of where the switch gets mounted and a hole drilled, lol. @retro or @Melatv thoughts?

That was my intended idea and understanding of it. I wouldn't cut into the existing wiring either I would just simply put a switch inline and add those barrel connectors and potentially the switch could be removed from the equation in the future with the exception of where the switch gets mounted and a hole drilled, lol. @retro

Gotcha. But taping into the blue wire lead, it would still be keyed and only function if bike is on. Because grounding the blue wire out the fan wont run unless you have key ON?

Sorry, not following you? stay around what fan power? https://www.hondaforeman.com/threads/manual-fan-switch.65456/

Why would you run power to the switch? Can't you simply ground the blue wiring using a switch? Kind of like the service manual indicates to test the fan operation?

Sounds like a valve seat. Went through this a few months ago.

My oil temp sensor is brand new, OEM. It’s the FCU controller that’s actually toast. The unit sometimes flashed the light briefly when I turn the key, other times it doesn’t. If I bake the controller in the oven then the controller works fine. K don’t follow your wiring idea. So where do you tie the other end of the switch?

Gotcha. So is it as easy as putting a switch inline with the two wires that are near the fuel tank that run to the fan? When switch is flipped you ground those and the fan comes on demand, leaving the switch in the off position basically retains the FCU operation to trigger it like OEM? That’s when FCU works..

Send those pivotworks bearings back. Well can someone point me in the direction how my to wire the FAN to work on a switch? I would like to keep the wiring to a minimum. My FCU is kaput I don’t feel like baking it in the oven every 2 weeks. It works intermittently on the dash that the little red light comes on during key ON. If I wire it to a switch does the FCU remain or do I have to remove it from the bike? Can someone help out?

The motor engages? Well then I'd move and check your switches see if they send signals (continuity) downstream. I do not really know where the Up/Down switch sends it's signal but find the end and ensure the switch actually works. if it also works, then your fault is at whatever they are tied into. I'm sure @retro will chime in here shortly. There was a guy just the other day had shifting issues and there is troubleshooting steps posted in his thread. Ignore the "Wont start" in his title, his thread turns into a shifting issue as you read through it.

Take the shift motor out, and bench test it. Apply 12V from the battery to 2 of the 3 leads. Check the Wiring Diagram from the Service Manual which ones are the + and - (upshift). To reverse the operation of the shift motor flip + & - (mimics the downshift). This will tell you if the motor even engages and spins the shaft. If it does, move onto the next test point. If no movement from Shift Motor then you need a new one.

Have you pulled the shift motor to inspect it? My shift motor crapped out on me a few months back.. couldn’t shift.. locked up in gear. The magnets completely destroyed inside the armature

When you were shifting was the bike stationary? If so, just rock the bike back and forth and it will lock into a gear and the indicator will update and hopefully show a grear #. Id your shifting up and down while bike is stationary it is normal for it to go maybe like 1, 2 and then - - until you rock it where it locks into gear. For reverse did you push the pin, pull the brake and then try going into reverse? You can’t go in reverse unless you depress the little pin by the left brake lever.

You got a few letters backwards there, it says; ZWBE-029-C3

No go boss.

I already have front discs on the 450. The pivotworks bearings arrived. The description matched what @jeepwm69 said. Are these the good or bad ones? Something particular I should be looking for?

While on the topic of front bearings, and potential knuckle worn what knuckles interchange with the 450? @jeepwm69 I think may know?

Correction onthe above that’s 1-3/4 turns out. Not 2-1/4..

Like an absolute beast. Pulls and fires, perfectly. On a cold start, while it’s running under the enrichment valve it sounds a bit odd. Not sure if I should set my idle adjustment up a bit. But once it warms it just sounds wicked. Was out tonight, did a 25mile trip.

Revive an old thread 2-1/4 out. How’s it look?

So that’s the unsealed type? As in the “bees knees”? @Fishfiles is there something you don’t have? Lol!

wealth of knowledge you provided! I ordered them last night, if they are as you describe their going back - gotta love Amazon Prime for that. I’ll post up should be here in the next couple of days.

What do you mean open sides? As in the ball bearings are visible? Here is the actual sale AD. Pivot Works PWFWK-H14-040 Front Wheel Bearing Kit https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B007S0KG3Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_PQAZK2ZM2BEDXDKV4MGA

I think I may have got my hands on an old set of Pivotworks which actually may be the good quality ones then?