freebo86

Maybe drilling a drain hole in the actual hub? I know the backing plate has like a drain hole.. how well it works? 🤷‍♂️ if I’m driving faster, 40mph or so and then let off throttle or sometimes not that fast the bike backfires. It seems to be more consistent on cooler weather too. What gives? Or just chalk it up as it is what it is at this point? My throttle range is strong at all points and if I tap it the bike just rears and wants to go! All 452ccs 😜 As you guys know this machine has been basically torn somewhat apart from top to bottom.

bundle that with wet snow and forget it lol! Brakes no worky. In what sense? Like they seize or just don’t grab? When I took the stuff off surprisingly there was t a lot of water there. Most of it was in the hub (big black housing). There was almost none in the actual drum (where the shoes bite). Finished my install tonight, it’s all back together. I slobbered marine grease everywhere lol to get as tight of a seal as possible and to hopefully keep as much water out as I can!

Got it to break loose, a few turns left and right it started to turn and then I was able to tap it out lightly. Had to make my own vent hose connection fit-up as the original was gone and tapped new threads on the hole. Also need to drill out the cotter pin holes that hold the brake shoes on as their gunked up. Bearings were swapped over from my plate, cleaned and regreased. The stuff you see on the o-ring is some die-electric grease to give it that extra bit of seals by power against the tube.

While the stuff is soaking. Over the last few days I; replaced one inner boot and regreased greased the tie rod boots drained front diff and refilled. *the fill plug is some weak on there** also painted the rear rack. Pretty much done visually at this point.

I have a press and that’s exactly what I did last time and it popped lol. it was supported evenly and it just wouldn’t budge on the old plate.

Think I’ll go with just vinegar for the time being let it sit for a day or two. No rush to break this free so I can let it soak for a while

Ah yah I got Evapo-Rust but didn’t think it would be something to break rust free from components? I used it to clean up some of the parts even during this build lol.

Yah I pulled the seals right after. ive never heard of white vinegar and rust. May try that as well.

Here is a shot of the bad boy. May use acetone and atf. That stuff smells like death but has done wonders for me in the past. Don’t think I’ll use heat in this.. I can soak this for the next week if I have to I just want to salvage it lol.

Lol have you been creeping my local classified search results!! Haha really like the CanAm visual appearance but I’ve been reading on the maintenance on these, thinking a 650 would be a good compromise. The Kawa BruteForce 750 also has a thing for me!

Thank you! It’s come a long way, only thing I wish for the machine to be a bit smoother riding lol. But I did score a second hand brake plate today, same ordeal that brake lever/arm is seized if you look back a few pages that’s how I cracked mine by trying to remove it. Any suggestions? Keep soaking it every day forever to break it free?

It’s like rubber just coming off the plate. Here is a couple of shots.

The 450 runs like a top these days. Really dialed in! Putting some serious mileage on it. Noticed one of the inner axle boots is starting to show stretch marks and the rubber is deteriorating. Can someone tell me what grease can I put in these when the boots replace? Reason I ask is I have a boot on hand already and wondering if odd the shelf grease can be put in? Noticed my rear brake plate the JB weld is coming off so I’m going to have to source a good used one to replace.

So with a bad o ring what occurs? The rocker arms don’t get the oil they need? You burn up the oil down the valve seals?

Can someone tell me what the purpose of the O-Ring is that’s under the valve cover where the oil delivery happens from down below up into the head? Trying to understand why is there a o-ring there, isnt the whole point to deliver oil up into the head so what is the o-ring sealing?

Do you have a part number for these pads? What you do, remove the caliper after every ride?

How many miles per set? what pads you using? 2 years for a set seems very reasonable.

The 450 has front Disc Brakes which are worn out. The setup are Quadtrax type that appears to be a spin off from SuperATV. for the Canuck folks. Doing some researching online it comes back that these calipers are re-branded Wilwood. Here is the actual disc brakes. https://revco.ca/quadrax-front-disc-brake-kit-for-honda-atvs/ Caliper; https://www.wilwood.com/Calipers/CaliperList?subname=PS1 Pads: https://www.wilwood.com/BrakePads/BrakePadsList?padtype=4108 Anyone recommend some brake pads that will last? I see these style with these 1 rabbit ear like connection all over the place from $10 a pair to $100 a pair...

What pads you actually running?

Sealed up the airbox joints and decided may as well put a new filter in it. Top lid o used like a electric grease filled the void and then put the cover on. I don’t intent to go into water to that level but it never hurts. Also scored a OEM FCU from a 02 450 for dirt cheap that actually works! So that’s installed also.

Wonder if braking performance would be any different / better with them at the rear?

What's that mean for me @jeepwm69? Swap em or leave them as is?

Yah I'll have to flip them. My Bleeders are on top now. Worst is I just bled and flushed the oil fluid and brakes about a month ago.. lol

I dont have the instructions for this setup, it was installed when I got the bike. But I think I've seen photos of them being mounted where they are lol on others as well. So you guys are saying mine are installed wrong? Ill have to flip it over..