freebo86

What do you mean? I had pulled the bearings out to clean them off. This is the only photo I have of them reinstalled when I greased it all.

mine are the tapered style bearings

Can someone measure me what the distance is front left side of frame to ride side of frame (inside dimensions of where the swing arm pivots). Let’s see if the frame is spreading.

I guess your looking at the old photo. After I took it apart and I did another go at it. Like I said, the more I thread the pivot in the more of a gap. So i took it out, and used fingers to go hand tight then my 3/8a torque wrench to get to to 7ft lbs. this is how it sits now with 3/16s left side

Nah, the gap is like 3/16”.

This makes sense, but no way would I be able to thread the pivot bolt in by head easily and get it to spread the frame.. I get it in there hand tight with my fingers before I apply the 7ft lbs

Ohhh… well It’s the swingarm that slides over and takes up the gap if I loosen the pivot bolt. The frame don’t appear to be moving. stopped by the dealer even some of their used machine outside look like this and I spoke with a mechanic who said it’s normal.. it’s going to stay this way. I checked the swingarm no side play at all so it’s staying. I marked the hex bolt prior to torquing the lock nut to make sure it didn’t move, and it didn’t.

So I checked the side again. Basically no cracks or anything is noticed. Now, as I unthread that pivot bolt the gap becomes smaller as the swing arm is pulled in towards frame. So what’s going on is as I tighten it the pivot bolt is pushing the swing arm to the left and creating the large gap.. Pivot is aligned with bearing and the correct pivot for the right side.

yes its a 04-450. Where are the potential crack marks?

No I did not try sliding it into the bearing without swingarm. I'll undo that side tonight and check if its aligned properly and check again. I did cycle the swingarm up and down, bike is on its tired again and all moves freely. I'll stop by the local Honda dealer today and look at a few of their machines that are outside. From reading online it seems that this gap is normal and quite common..

Actually, I cleaned the threads to the point I was able to fully thread in the pivot bolts by hand all the way through the hole before I installed the swingarm back on - that’s how clean the threads were. I think it’s aligned, because again, I was able to start threading that pivot bolt in with ease even with the swingarm in place so it was all aligned.

I did clean the threads out on both side. I’ll undo this bolt and check the threads again. I can keep deff tightening it.. but it’s the low torque value that’s just making me stop…

Got it on! The tube was clean once I took it apart. Swingarm is mounted. Is the gap on the right side normal? I never checked when I pulled this off. both pivots are to spec on torque. Left is 83ft. Right I did to 7ft lbs. then I put the lock nut on and went to 83ft lbs for it. I took a old socket and cut grooves into it for the lock nut.

I don’t think we’re understanding each other hear/ what ujoint are we referring to? The one by the output shaft? If so, that’s not the issue. My problem is the rear driveshaft at the rear diff end. I think the rear shaft pulled OUT OF the diff. I can make the front portion mate up..

well to do this I’d have to separate the diff off the swing arm.. no way to do this with it all still as one assembly.

So basically just push the driveshaft into the swing arm tube and I should get it to seat down into the rear diff?

I've had it back as far as 2.5 turns and the bike seems to run not as well, throttle response isn't quite there.. Picked up oil today, now that the machine has 15 or so hours since the engine was re-done and the intial break in is over. this will be the 3rd chance.

Yes there is a spring back there I see it in the tube. Is it supposed to click into place or what?

Got it loose. Pulled. cleaned threads, checked bearings they were smooth once I cleaned them off. Applied marine grease to them and cleaned the swing arm cavity they sit in and pushed them back in. replaced the output shaft seal - easy. The issue I ran into is the rear shaft that is inside the swing arm pulled itself out of the diff and is inside the swing arm tube now.. is this normal? Do I now need to separate the swing arm from the rear diff to get the rear shaft back seated? The instructions don’t into great detail on getting the back driveshaft in do I just push it until it snaps into something or what?

Go on? Serious?

so does the lock nut have to come off? I keep reading people just undoing the 17mm hex and that’s it? Because I got most of it off but I’m at the lock but now. Left side is just the 17mm hex.. havent tried pulling that off. But that lock but is not coming off with just hitting it with a hammer and chisel.. I’m worried going further if actually ruining the lock but and then being SOL. I actually hate to spend money!

Oyyy Oyyyy potentially more parts to replace..

Why you saying don’t order anything till it’s apart? What else is there to replace that may be required?

Nevermind, got my answer. Guess not. Apparently the rear output shaft is the culprit. so what special tools are needed to pull that swing arm off? And what is the quickest and easiest way to pull it? Remove the wheels, remove rear brake cables, lower shock bolts then undo the swing arm and pull it back? I tried looking on partzilla but can’t figure out what the seal actually is. Is it #6 under Final Gear Drive?

My curiosity got the best of me, I loosened the clamp on the accordion style rubber boot that’s towards the rear near the oil dip stick, and that runs back to the axle. Should there be oil in this accordion? And what actually is in there? I loosened the clamp and oil just oozed out..