JohnHenry

Yes, I figured as much. I went to the local Honda dealer expecting OEM but got Moose. I thought they might not be bad since they were selling them. It occurred to me also that it might be the hub itself? I checked the slack in the bore the second time around and it appeared to be good. I'll need to disassemble again assemble on the bench I guess so I can get a good look at it. Thanks for the input, guys!

I've got an 06 500 Foreman. It had slack in the front right wheel when we bought it. I put a new bearing in it from Allballs Racing. We noticed a short time later that the wheel still had slack. Took it apart and the inner race had split right where it is scored om the center. Bought another bearing, Moose this time, and it still has slack as if it has a bad wheel bearing. I looked at the parts schematic to see if it was missing something and it doesn't appear to be. It isn't in the control arm bushings or ball joints. It's clearly wheel bearing slack.You can see the wheel and the outer CV joint wobble inside the spindle. I thought perhaps the outer race could be wobbling inside the spindle but I can't see it to tell for certain. Anyone have any experience with this problem that can point me in the right direction?

Finally! The inner part of the clutch basket was hanging on the last tooth for some reason. I assembled it on the bench to make sure it made up correctly, reinstalled it and we are good to go. My son is very happy! Sled_22, that's how I started as well. I had a 185S ATC when I was my son's age. It started smoking. My Dad borrowed a repair manual from a friend and we but a new set of rings it it together. Ive been doing it ever since. I'm glad my son is picking up on it as well. Thought about buying him a new one but that would be no fun at all! lol! I'm having a different problem with it totally unrelated to engine problems, but I'll start a new thread for that one.

I hope it is is something simple like that. I bought this thing really cheap for me and my 13 y.o. son to have a project to work on together. So far we've had it more than 3 weeks and the poor guy has only gotten to ride it once. I think we're in the end stretch though, I hope. I'll let yall know how it goes.

We ended up pulling the engine again. After having just done it, my son and I pulled it out in about 30-45 min., not too bad. Sure enough, the gear position sensor was 180 degrees out. Put it all back together, fired right up and sounded like a dream. Put it in gear and it lunged forward a little, like you'd expect, but then it won't go anywhere. I guess I did something wrong on the clutches. I'm going to leave the engine in this time though. We're getting really good at taking this thing apart and putting it together again. I just wish I could do it once for a change! lol!

That makes me feel much better about the no spark issue. Thanks!

I have a Clymer manual. I'm not sure how to get the cover off without removing the engine though. The rear shaft goes right through it. I really enjoy taking the engine out. I believe I'll do it once a week just for the fun of it. lol!🤪

Now I'm having more issues. Since putting it back together it seems like I may have put the rear crankshaft cover on wrong. What I mean is I didn't know I needed to make sure it was in neutral and line up the gear position switch accordingly. I'm getting a reverse light in 4th and the neutral light between gears, 1st is showing up in 5th. I'm guessing I have to remove the engine again and bust it back open and realign it, provided it's not broken. I wanted to start it up (using the neutral bypass on the handbrake) and make sure there aren't other problems that need addressing while I have the engine removed. It isn't getting any fire to the sparkplug. Will the gear position sensor being fouled up prevent it from getting fire to the plug, or do I need to look and see if I've screwed something else up?

Thanks for the tips!

I finally got it split. Didn't need to remove the stator drum (not sure the proper name). I'd be afraid to hit it, seeing it apparently has magnets inside. Was pleased to find it was a correct diagnosis and there was one tooth broke off from the first gear. Now I hope I can get all of this back together next week when my gear set comes in! lol! I'm sure the video above will be an enormous help though.

Thank you, Fishfiles! Yes this pretty much means what I didn't want to hear. They've got one dang bolt behind the rear crankcase cover, which means I've got to bust it apart too. I don't have the puller he speaks about in the video. So, now I'm wondering if I can get to that bolt without removing that drum.

Hello! Was wondering if you could help me out. I have an 06 500 foreman with a bad low gear. I can't get the crankcase to split open. I've removed all of the bolts i can find (15 of them) but still feels like it's fastened somewhere. I do not have the rear side of the engine busted open where the stator is. Is there a bolt or two inside there that would prevent me from removing the front half of the crankcase?