Orvis25

@jeepwm69 I would assume that by "selectable" you mean that it has like a lever / mode (burron) that engages the 4wd within the differential (electrically or otherwise). I honestly don't know for sure, as i have only ever owned 2 atv's (trx200sx, and my trx300fw). I would assume the following, but I'm not a technician or mechanic: 1) That if the differential on the "selectable" one engages/disengages the 4wd by compressing the slip disks (by like an electric motor or something), that this mod would enhance the pressure applied, but still allow it (4wd) to be disabled, but I don't know for sure (It could also add strain on the engagement mechanism since there is more resistance).That said, when in 4wd mode it would most likely be more of a pain since it would slip less. 2) If it enables it (4wd) via some axle switch out method (like a 424) it will probably still be hard to turn (I assume) since the washers would always be compressing and enabling the front to be "locked" more, regardless of if there is torque going to it from the engine. Just my 2 cents, maybe someone with more mechanical know-how can provide input.

Just so everyone knows, I put links to all my mods on my "about me" tab on my profile page. I will keep the list updated there if you ever need to find them.

I heard not to use blue (even though the OEM diff seems to use blue), but I opted to not use red in case I ever need to re-disassemble to replace those friction pads in the front diff. Another reason is during my first attempt at disassembling (before the video), I already damaged one of those e10 bolt heads on the first removal (since the torx bits don't sit flushly on the bolt head, at least mine didn't, this was my first time ever using them). That being the cease, I am not convinced I could extract it a second time successfully if it was held in there with something even stronger (red grade). I guess I am taking a "risk" by using blue, but at the same time the OEM used blue so... *fingers crossed*

I saw that Torq part, but could not justify the near $500 cost, on top of the fact I was concerned about long term reliability when its paired with a 424 switch out (that i cant acquire, since I don't need 100% 4x4) since in my case, it would be doing the "non powered" ratcheting thing where it like skips over the engagement teeth for most of its life. Ultimately I went with the more cheaper "OEM, mod" rout since it suited my needs/budget ($16 shipped for the pair), I'm hoping it will be a nice improvement for us more "casual" riders that just need a bit more engagement when doing things like plowing or hauling.

Yes, there was a video floating around for this mod being done to the trx350/400 series, but since the differential is different, I chose to do a video on how to perform this mod on a TRX300 differential. I acknowledge this, and the other options (like tractor supply washers) in the video. Here is the 350 Forman one I got the idea from, but again, its NOT a TRX300 differential he shows. Because of this, I wanted to make one for the community that shows how to do the mod with an ACTUAL TRX300 differential:

Yes, I saw a video about the 400 mod, but since the diff was different i wanted to do one for the 300. I have not yet, I'm waiting for my oil seals to come in. PS: What what's your take on the mod? I assume you like it if you did this mod multiple times. PSS: did you Loctite blue or red the bolts back in? thanks for the like btw 🙂

Hey guys! Here is a quick tutorial on how to do the front diff cone washer mod on the TRX300FW series. The purpose of the mod is to make the differentials clutch packs on each side "slip" less, so it is not in 3x4 mode ("three wheel drive") by increasing the pressure applied to them. This "should" force them to be engaged more often, hence giving you 4x4 more frequently, even under "normal" circumstances. One downside to this mod will be the fact that because it is engaged more (slipping less often) it will be harder to steer and turn. Just as a FYI. Parts: 2x cone washers (Part #: 42535-HA7-671) Tools: Impact (electric or air) e10 torx socket 12mm socket 14mm socket Blue (or red) Loctite (or other thread locker) degreaser (brake cleaner, etc) 50+ Q-tips (for cleaning threads) Here is my video on how to take the front diff apart and install the cone washers: Hope it helps you all out! I saw a lot of people talking about this mod, but there where no videos of how to install it, so... I made one 🙂 If it helped make sure to drop a thumbs up on the video or heart the post (or both)! Note: I accept no responsibility if you damage your stuff (or self) trying to replicate (or use) this mod. Do it at your own risk.

Long time ago i believe yes 😛 I used what i had on hand... and never chanced it 😛

glad to be back 🙂

I love them in winter. Best $50 upgrade for this thing i ever spent.

Very nice 🙂

I added an additional 2 tutorials / informational threads tonight. Never seen before in terms of forum posts. enjoy ya'll, hope they are helpful.

Hope this helps someone. I had issued getting the rear one installed, so I wanted to share my solution to that. In addition, wanted to share how to keep the front above-engine mud splash guards in place (directions want you to remove them). I am somewhat skeptical on the durability of this kit, but i will use it until failure most likely so, I will update ya'll if anything happens.

Hey guys, Quick one for ya, might help others. My old grips where trashed, and I plow a lot in winter, so I wanted some nice heated grips. Got a REALLY good deal on this kit new (like $50 shipped). Here is the method i used to install it to the frame & in terms of wiring. I think its simple, and I like that its switched. ______________________________ Notes: - This is a combination post of my tutorial (never posten on forums) and an old therad i had about the accessory plug rating and wiring route in the harness diagram. Enjoy my crappy diagram of my project. - The 18 guage 15A fused OEM pink "accessories" wire is technically rated out to 120w peak load (possibly) - I recommend planning to never put more than a constant load of over 8amps/96watts without risking melting the wire insulation. - The accessories wire can support some types of emergency pumps. The one i own is a cheap-o $7 HF emergency pump. Do not exceed 8a draw under load.

thanks 🙂

Great home made one!

Cheers 🙂

well your but better PM me a goodbye, even if i take another hiatus from the forum for whatever reason (most likely life). known you almost 9 years now

"leave here" Like retire from honda forums altogether? Id miss ya :{

feels good to be with "the gang"

hehe, cheers!

OOC, do you recommend "normal" non-mudding people to do grease mod, or just stick with oil. I feel like there is a reason why Honda (and any other OEM differential in any vehicle iv ever seen) does not do 100% greased diffs. The only thing I could think of is that (and i assume your running a gear reduction) since your tires run at lower RPM's (with more torque) the grease does not "foam up" or something, but under normal riding conditions at higher speeds for extended periods of time, it might like "whip" the grease into a foam and cause issues? IDK.... Side question, why do you not seal off the breather hose permanently (like with epoxy or something) and just pump greases in until it bleeds out the seals at the CV join connection point?

Just to clarify, when you say "one wheele will go dead" and "broke cv-shafts on the left side" Do you think that the mudding was primarily the issue? I don't see how getting the differential to engage more via the cone washer would would cause it to break CV-shafts in anyway they would not have already without them. I figure it would just allow it to operate more frequently under its normal 4x4 tolerances. In terms of you greasing all 3, whats the "life span" on the greese in the case? Do you ever "drain" the case per say and do a total replacement, or just keep injecting new stuff every so often until it ! out the breather hose?

I am still trying to figure out what that means ^^^^ I was just asking are you the youtuber "TheHondaOutlay", or different person (since he linked it with that forum post from you).

Thanks brother 🙂