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Orvis25

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Orvis25 last won the day on July 1 2021

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    Orland Park, Illinois
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  1. Thanks! Glad to hear it's helping people 🙂 Remember to check out that thread I made for how to recover the washer (I dropped mine too). (https://atvhonda.com/topic/1528-trx300fw-kick-start-rear-washer-recovery-method-no-engine-splitting/)
  2. Well the kick start no resistance sounds like the spring is not under tension. When you pull the crank case back off, put the peg back on the shaft and crank it and look if its under tension. In terms of the shifting thing, I am going to defer to @shadetree.
  3. Ah my bad, I misunderstood. I thought you put the top end on, but it sounds like you got it in 2 pieces (top and bottom ends) If so, ya "flushing" it with diesel could be feasible, but keep in mind it will in all likelihood also remove a lot of the oil residue in the bearings and stuff, so when its reassembled and filled, there will be a small amount of time that virtually everything will be "un lubricated" per say. I would say, if your really want to "flush it" (the crank case) for any larger debris hanging at the bottom, go with vegetable oil, since at least it will protect the parts and not leave them stripped of oils. Most likely cheaper too, diesel in my area is like $4.40+ a gal. Just buy a few gallons, poor it in (maybe shake her up if you really want to I guess), and let her drain out the bolt hole like a regular change. Nice thing about vegetable oil is its bio degradable, so even if you use 10 gallons to flush it, you don't "need" to recycle it like motor oil or used diesel (non-bio degradable). Poor it (the vegetable oil) over some weeks, poor some salt on the now sticky leaves, and boom, discount weed killer while your at is >.< If you don't see any big stuff, just pop the top end stuff on, fill her up with your oil, and run it. Just make sure to tune/align stuff first. Best of luck man.
  4. I have never read a repair manual for a 450, but I know that under normal circumstances, Hondabond+gasket is not recommended since you don't want it seeping into your cylinder where the piston rides. The flat gasket should be all that is needed to seal it. Maybe the PO put it on if/when they worked on it, but on my 300, there is no liquid gasket material that assists with sealing the cylinder head/base, or my crank cases, other than the OEM flat gasket. Maybe let someone who broke down a 450 before give you some more clarification ( @bcsman ), but I would advise most likely not.
  5. Honestly, if its running find, i would not "flush" the crank case. I have seen people swear by diesel and a bunch of other stuff, but Project Farms (YT) tested a few, and every one led to cylinder wall/piston damage due to lack of lubrication when running the engine. The only on I have heard that can be done with no/minimal damage to your engine is vegetable oil flushing since it performs pretty similarly to 10w-30 for a while, and is super cheap and bio-degradable. Honestly. Unless it was sunk, I would just replace the filter, and treat it as normal. Maybe even ! a magnetic drain plug.
  6. No, Hondabond was not made for that type of environment/purpose. Go with a raw (un-honda bonded) OEM or aftermarket gasket. Only use hondabond to replace places that where priorly Honda-bonded by the factory (like the rocker boxes) or when clamping differential shells.
  7. https://4stroke.wixsite.com/mysite/3-honda This guy also makes them. He also does BBK for the 300. Never bought from him, but I considered it when i was going to do the mod and possible top end rebuild.
  8. good luck on the 400 btw!
  9. Orvis25

    Just joined

    Welcome @Wojo Glad to have you 🙂
  10. @JR_TRX You might find this helpful if you have not taken a trx300 right side crankcase apart before. Wrote it up specifically to assist others for timing chain replacements 🙂 I had to do mine recently myself also, except mine was worn down to about only 3/16 of an inch of gap (SUPER WORN) Hope it helps you with yours!
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