Jump to content

Orvis25

Members
  • Content Count

    132
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Orvis25 last won the day on July 1

Orvis25 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

105 Excellent

Personal Information

  • Location
    Orland Park, Illinois
187 profile views
  1. Well the kick start no resistance sounds like the spring is not under tension. When you pull the crank case back off, put the peg back on the shaft and crank it and look if its under tension. In terms of the shifting thing, I am going to defer to @shadetree.
  2. Ah my bad, I misunderstood. I thought you put the top end on, but it sounds like you got it in 2 pieces (top and bottom ends) If so, ya "flushing" it with diesel could be feasible, but keep in mind it will in all likelihood also remove a lot of the oil residue in the bearings and stuff, so when its reassembled and filled, there will be a small amount of time that virtually everything will be "un lubricated" per say. I would say, if your really want to "flush it" (the crank case) for any larger debris hanging at the bottom, go with vegetable oil, since at least it will protect the parts and not leave them stripped of oils. Most likely cheaper too, diesel in my area is like $4.40+ a gal. Just buy a few gallons, poor it in (maybe shake her up if you really want to I guess), and let her drain out the bolt hole like a regular change. Nice thing about vegetable oil is its bio degradable, so even if you use 10 gallons to flush it, you don't "need" to recycle it like motor oil or used diesel (non-bio degradable). Poor it (the vegetable oil) over some weeks, poor some salt on the now sticky leaves, and boom, discount weed killer while your at is >.< If you don't see any big stuff, just pop the top end stuff on, fill her up with your oil, and run it. Just make sure to tune/align stuff first. Best of luck man.
  3. I have never read a repair manual for a 450, but I know that under normal circumstances, Hondabond+gasket is not recommended since you don't want it seeping into your cylinder where the piston rides. The flat gasket should be all that is needed to seal it. Maybe the PO put it on if/when they worked on it, but on my 300, there is no liquid gasket material that assists with sealing the cylinder head/base, or my crank cases, other than the OEM flat gasket. Maybe let someone who broke down a 450 before give you some more clarification ( @bcsman ), but I would advise most likely not.
  4. Honestly, if its running find, i would not "flush" the crank case. I have seen people swear by diesel and a bunch of other stuff, but Project Farms (YT) tested a few, and every one led to cylinder wall/piston damage due to lack of lubrication when running the engine. The only on I have heard that can be done with no/minimal damage to your engine is vegetable oil flushing since it performs pretty similarly to 10w-30 for a while, and is super cheap and bio-degradable. Honestly. Unless it was sunk, I would just replace the filter, and treat it as normal. Maybe even ! a magnetic drain plug.
  5. No, Hondabond was not made for that type of environment/purpose. Go with a raw (un-honda bonded) OEM or aftermarket gasket. Only use hondabond to replace places that where priorly Honda-bonded by the factory (like the rocker boxes) or when clamping differential shells.
  6. https://4stroke.wixsite.com/mysite/3-honda This guy also makes them. He also does BBK for the 300. Never bought from him, but I considered it when i was going to do the mod and possible top end rebuild.
  7. good luck on the 400 btw!
  8. Orvis25

    Just joined

    Welcome @Wojo Glad to have you 🙂
  9. @JR_TRX You might find this helpful if you have not taken a trx300 right side crankcase apart before. Wrote it up specifically to assist others for timing chain replacements 🙂 I had to do mine recently myself also, except mine was worn down to about only 3/16 of an inch of gap (SUPER WORN) Hope it helps you with yours!
  10. Howdy everyone, Bringing you all another tutorial, this time on how to disassemble a 1994 Trx300fw right side crank case all the way down for a timing chain replacement. Special thanks to @shadetree for guiding me though this process when I did mine, now I will be paying it forward in the form of a guide for all to use. Note: This guide is mainly for those who need to do a timing chain replacement, and need to take the right side crank case apart for that purpose. It can be used for general disassembly help, but keep that in mind as that is how I will be structuring the steps for disassembly. Ok with that said, lets get started! Note: I do not remember everything exactly, so there may be some missing info in the explanations. Take this guide as a addition/alternative to the manuals break down of disassembly in some ways. Some details like bolt sizes may be updated over time. If you find an error, please PM me and i will change it (do not clog up the thread with the corrections) _____________________________________________ Tools: metric wrenches and sockets (8, 10, 12 and 27mm) Impact Gasket scraper Flathead screwdriver Clutch puller _____________________________________________ Step 1) Unbolt and remove the timing chain automatic tensioner (located on front right side of the engine jug) - 2x 8mm bolts + 10mm head cover. insert flathead screwdriver and turn to the right to retract the tension rod. Remove the front bumper, and plastics, and airbox plastic feed tube. Step 2) Unbolt the rocker box cover/head (13 bolts) and remove. - mix of 8mm and 10mm bolts. Unbolt the oil line and remove (the black thing connecting the crank case to the head on right side) Step 3) Unbolt the 2 bolts on the cam sprocket (10mm) (you will need to turn the engine, to do this, use the 8mm allen wrench (or socket) on the inspection port for the electric starter and turn to the right) - Do NOT drop the bolt in the engine. I recommend stuffing a rag in the gap just in case. Once unbolted, slide the sprocket forward, so the sprocket drips down onto the lower part of the cam shaft, which will allow the chain to be loose and come off the sprocket. Take the chain, and using metal wire, string it tightly to the frame so it will not fall into the engine. Then remove the cam and sprocket assembly. Step 4) Flip ATV onto its left side, so the right crank case is up. Unbolt the right footpeg (12mm) and swing the foot break out of the way (I recommend unhooking the cable too) Step 5) Unbolt the 4 bolts covering & holding the neutral, reverse and temperature sensors. (8 & 10mm mix) Once unbolted and loose, remove (unplug) the sensor connectors and tuck to the side. Remove kick starter from its shaft (12mm) Step 6) Unbolt the right side crank case (all 8mm) Remove right crank case cover - Important! Keep pressure on the kick starter shaft as you pull the case off. DO NOT LET IT MOVE AT ALL. If it slips outward (with he case as you pull it off), there is a very high chance the washer on the back side will fall off the shaft and into the center part of your crank case. See This thread I made on how to recover the washer without pulling the engine if you do mess up. Remove the observe the shifter orientation and the triangle shifter system over the secondary clutch. (note that the dot on the shifter shaft lines up with the arrow on theface of the case for reassembly) Step 7) Remove the primary clutch nut (27mm bolt) with an impact. This is reverse thread, so right is loose, and left if tight. Once the nut and washer is off, use a clutch puller to pull the assembly out. Remove the assembly cup. Unbolt and remove the splash flap/guard (2 bolts) Step 8 ) Loosen the 4 bolts (10mm) on the secondary clutch in a criss-cross pattern until you can remove the plate and springs. Remove the nut (27mm, normal thread) and washer holding the clutch assembly on. Pull the assembly out. Step 9) Unbolt and remove the internal oil line (10mm) Unbolt and remove the oil pump (10mm) Step 10) Remove the gear adapter piece. Untie chain, and fish it out. _____________________________________________ And that's it! You can now replace your chain with a new one. I really hope it helps someone else who needs to break their engine down to replace the timing chain. Let me know if it helped! This post took quite a while to write up, in addition get the pictures taken, organized, edited, and compressed for this thread. So if you like it, how about hitting that like 🙂 _____________________________________________ Here are some tips for reassembly: - Make sure to tie the new chain up just like you did the old so when you flip the bike upright to re-install the cam and sprocket, the chain does not fall back into the engine. - double check the orientation of the reverse shifter and kick starter shaft before reinstalling the crank case cover. - When installing the cam, make sure the piston is on the T mark on the inspection timing port, then install it with the cam lobes down (at the 7 and 4 o'clock position or so). This will automatically make the valves/piston be at top dead center compression stroke (TDCCS) for when you check the alignment & timing of the system. - Ensure the 2 hash marks on the timing gear are in line with the top of the cylinder jug edge, and that the punch mark is at the 12 o'clock position. When the piston is at TDCCS, the T timing mark (timing inspection port) should be alighted, and at the same time, so should the 2 lines and the punch on the timing chain sprocket. _____________________________________________ update: So honored to have my post pinned! Glad it helped 🙂
×
×
  • Create New...