Orvis25

Id rather have it and catch what It can, than not have it and have it floating around and being caught in my bearings, leading to pre-mature wear. I wont plan on doing "flushes" any time soon given both my front and rear have now been taken apart (rear rebuilt, front for washer mod), and I don't plan on flushing it with brake cleaner.

Gl. The rear is a b_i__ch, hope the longer bolt reccomendation w/ washers helps, but the front is easy.

I'd say anything under 2 inches would be a no go for a kit like this. You'd run into issues of the bolts not having enough clearance without drilling out or modifying the oem frame. It's a 2" kit like this to keep original parts, or you'd be doing shock mods tonget the height you desire. I highly reccomend watching the video, it will show you better than I can explain in words.

Yes, youra looks identicle to mine with the exception of those huge washers. The video will explain how to install the kit. I did not re-anign my steering, but I need to anyway just due to age and OP lack of maintanance.

Here ya go bud. Pictures are @_Wilson_™ Engine magnetic drain plug: Diff oil fill caps:

I made a tutorial on how to make these here: @_Wilson_™ if you want to share your photos' there go for it.

Well the 2" kit i got allows everything stock to be used. Follow my vid, and hopefully yours assembles the same.

Hey guys! After asking around on how to add magnets to the diffs to catch metal fragments in the oil, @_Wilson_™ shared his take on how he added magnets to the filler caps. I decided to do a similar method and make a tutorial about it. Here it goes! How to make magnetic differential oil fill caps for your TRX300FW. The purpose of the mod is, as your differential gears wear down, instead of letting the metal fragments float about, it will allow them to be captured by the magnet. This removes them from the oil, and prevents accelerated wear from the fragments being washed into your gears and bearings. Parts: Magnets epoxy (non-magnetic) epoxy (magnetic (optional)) gear oil resistant gasket maker (Honda bond or Permatex RTV green) Degreaser Here is my video explaining how I made mine: Hope it helps you all out! I was researching this topic, and only saw limited discussion (mostly hear say) on doing this. So i bit the bullet, made one, tested it, and here we are🙂 If it helped make sure to drop a thumbs up on the video or heart the post (or both)! Note: I accept no responsibility if you damage your stuff (or self) trying to replicate (or use) this mod. Do it at your own risk.

i went with the 2 cone washer method. its supposed to be partial, but feels more like 100% compared to stock.

Welp, I got the Diff installed again and drove her for the first time with the washer mod, my god, it steers like a tank now. I can feel a lot more torque going to the front wheels, but man it makes it hard to turn. Hopefully she wears in a little more and eases up. at least i know the mod worked 😛

well i hope it works out for ya brother.

go get er' done brother 🙂

Hey no worries, glad it helped. Did you install it yet? Make sure to do the washer on the rear and buy a longer bolt. IDK why they thought that was good enough but it wasn't. Id also recommend buying a tubular spacer/shim thing for the rear bolt so it does not cave in (my kit came with only the front ones). Just an extra precaution that I will go back and do at some later point.

YA i might make a "how to" video/thread for making these. Add another thing to my plethora of "how to" stuff I post here 😛 cuz i was googling and saw like... almost nothing in terms of differential stuff, jsut engine oil magnetic plugs. I figured id be either the post, or just the most vocal about it. But yes i back fill in the rest with RTV green just to be on the safe side. Anyway, You can post yours there too when I make it >.<

I was considering that, but I dont have enough non-steel epoxy on hand to completely fill the cap. I'm sure honda bond (or in my case rtv green) would work, but I trust epoxy a bit for in terms of resilience and holding the magnet in there firmly (since honda and rtv do not dry hard, theybstay somewhat rubbery) I guess only time will tell though. However, I could (and might do this) do the epoxy on the bottom part to hold the magnets in place & togeather, and then back fill the rest of the void with RTV green, I like that idea.

Ya I wanted mine as flush as possible, but the double stack magnet method I used (what I had) protruded like 1mm. Past the lip. As long as its flush, seems to be totally safe, granted the gear oil does not eat the epoxy (idk if this will be the case or not). I'm happy 🙂

I like it. Did you epoxy the magnet to the underside of the filler cap on the front/rear diff? I ordered a USA made Tusk drain bolt for my engine oil l, I'm "home brewing" the differential filler caps with magnets amd some epoxy.

I know you do... >.< But dont jinx me ! Send good vibes.

Welp, she works! Drive her a few blocks, came back, jacked her up to inspect for leaks out of the gaskets/seals and to check if the megnet disloged. The diff gear does not hit the magnet when its fully tightened (I was worried about this). So as long as the gear oil does not eat away the epoxy for whatever reason, I'd say success. Even already pulled out a few pieces of metal already from my fresh oil change just now (remnants in the case I guess)

Decided just to go for it. I can fit 2 magnets in the front diff fill cap. I had to use some two part hardman d-50 urethane adhesive (epoxy) since the JB weld gave me a bunch of issues (since it contains steel fragments). It was "sucking" all the epoxy to the magnet sides and top, which put it past the lip of the cap, something I did not want. . The only thing i can really think of going wrong is the gear oil eats away the epoxy for some reason (the additives?), but I'm hoping that wont be the case. If you guys hear a horror story later down the line about my diffs going out you'll know why 😛 Going to leave one magnet pair on the outside until my next change, hopefully it stays as added insurance. FOR SCIENCE!

I was thinking that too possibly, but you'd loose alot of the power since ited travel through the socket head part of the cap. (like 1/2" thick). If it can get through, I was thinking one in, one out (the outside one can be a "just in case" the inside one comes loose somehow.

Ya that's about the only concern i have, but i don't think after degreasing it and using some quality 2 part epoxy it'd be an issue. I just notice every time i open it it has some fine shavings (which is normal wear from my understanding)

So question, Have you all ever seen mods for putting magnets on the filler caps on ATV differentials? I know magnetic engine oil drain bolts are common (i got one myself), but what about the diff? The diff drain bolts on my trx300fw are to small to have magnets on it (not even aftermarket available), but I was thinking of epoxying a magnet to the underside of my filler cap, so when the oil is "splashing" around while driving, maybe it will help catch some of the magnetic particles from the steel teeth gears wearing down. It would also allow me to clean the magnet on oil changes (assuming it catches anything) unlike epoxying one internally that i cant get to unless I remove the diff and crack it open (kind of like car rear end diffs) Thoughts?

Glad to have you!

OOC, does having them slip less mean that technically the pads wear out less, or is that negated by the fact when they do slip, they are slipping under even more friction pressure?