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Tobor1

09 Rancher fpa

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new battery yesterday , regulator rectifier is not connected , still blows fuses when key is put in on position .replaced angle sensor week ago but will try in the morning will install rectifer in morning also and test battery voltage . thank you 

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Hi: The Main fuse 1 only feeds power to the fan motor and the shift motor.

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That would narrow things down quite a bit. as you suggested other night the shift motor is still unplugged.I need to go pick up more fuses now but this morning I will start Tracing  wires looking for bare contact spots with frame

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Hi: Do you have one of those 12 volt light testers? If so use it instead of the fuse, you may need jumper wire to connect the test light in where the fuse goes. --- how it will work the test light will stay on until you clear the fault that was blowing the fuse -- it will go off when you clear the fault.  unplug 5 pin connector on the PCM to start your testing.

Edited by Melatv
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Unplugged the 5 pin connector. No power to fuse now. I apologize I’m not a wiring guy am I testing from plug to fuse or wiring.  

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2 hours ago, Tobor1 said:

That would narrow things down quite a bit. as you suggested other night the shift motor is still unplugged.I need to go pick up more fuses now but this morning I will start Tracing  wires looking for bare contact spots with frame

I was thinking "This guy is going through a LOT of fuses"

 

That said, make sure you use good (BUSS for example) fuses.  I made the mistake of buying cheap chyna fuses on ebay/ amazon and they actually melted into the fuse block.  Learned my lesson on that one.

 

Good fuses are pricey for what they are, but when the cheap ones melted and made a mess of my fuse block, lesson learned.

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Hi: You have the test light plugged in where the main 1 fuse goes? you unplugged the 5 pin connect and the test light went out?  

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So if the test light when out -- now the problem is either PCM or the cable going to the shift motor --- lets check the cable --- the shift motor is unplugged -- put your meter on the lowest Ohms scale -- test the 5 pin connector -- place one meter lead on the red wire of the 5 pin connector and then with the other meter lead check the other 4 wire in the 5 pin connector -- should have no readings.

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PCM.   We are talking about. CDI box ?   My god I’m embarrassed. 

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I might add. CDI box is 3,weeks old.  Shift motor is 3 weeks old.  I may have just inherited somebody else’s problems

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2 minutes ago, Tobor1 said:

PCM.   We are talking about. CDI box ?   My god I’m embarrassed. 

 

Don't be embarrassed.  Honda has called them CDI's, ECU's, and PCM's, so it can be confusing as !.

 

 

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Going home now to try it.  Does battery stay connected to test ohms?  

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one lead on red  other 4 oL each    shift motor still unplugged

 

 

Edited by Tobor1

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Okay -- key off -- now put your meter on the low ohms scale again -- place one meter lead on the neg. of the battery and with the other meter lead test each of those 5 wires in the 5 pin connector.

Edited by Melatv

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Okay -- those tests are good only one green should have a reading.  Now check the PCM 5 pin male side for bent pins and corrosion.

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Good -- put your test light back in where the 30 amp main 1 goes. -- put key on does the test light up?  -- if not turn key off and replace the 5 pin connector into the PCM then turn key on does test light come on? -- if so pull out the fan fuse -- does the test light stay on?

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the test light comes on with no fuse and key off tried that earlier 

 

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looking down on fuse box   left side is hot with no key , no fuse and 5 pin not plugged in 

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