Light bar question

[Ruttinbuck 3]

Hi guys, been trying to find out about hooking up a light bar on my atv , some say yes and some say no! So I’m going to ask here, First I have a 2006 Honda fourtrax 350 4x4 FM , the only acc I’m running is a winch. I purchased a 12” Nilight 300 watt with a separate wire harness that is fused and has a relay. I would have liked to have tapped into the original high beam but not sure if that would work. I hooked the wire harness and light to a 12 volt battery and did an amp draw test and it says a 4 amp draw. I was wondering would it be safe to tap into my high beam or just go with the separate wire harness and separate switch? Thanks

[Fishfiles 17,099]

You going to get the same answer you say you already got , some will say ok and some won't --------- to ask the same question and expect a different result is .......   

 

I have a few atvs and have LED bars and pods on all of them , some  hooked to the high beam and low beam , it works using the stock switch and wires  , just can't ran both at the same time , not cause it won't handle  it , because the switch don't allow it , high or low , I don't use relays , some are on separate switches --------    if you are in and  around  water you need a good switch , cheap switches don't last long  , they  corride quick 

[Ruttinbuck 3]

Thanks for your reply, I do realize different people have different opinions on this subject, but I wasn’t looking for an opinion I was looking for a definite answer. I was reading that you can damage your original wiring by running too many watts, for example my light is labeled 300watts but on that note ,when I ran the amp test it only had a 4 amp draw. I just wanted to know for sure before I hooked it up and burned up my wiring or if the stator could handle a 4amp draw while maintaining the battery. I thought some other Honda owners that was experienced in the wiring aspects could give me a definite answer. But your probably right some will say yes and some will say no. Lol

[Fishfiles 17,099]

Your trying to make a mountain out a molehill , lol 

[Ruttinbuck 3]

Jesus bud somehow we started off on the wrong foot here, I wasn’t attacking you personally. This is my first time asking this question, my info was what I’ve read on line while researching about a light bar. After not getting anywhere and becoming confused by all the different opinions I decided to join the Honda group and get the answers from the Honda people themselves. I didn’t realize asking a question would wind up like this and if I offended you in any way that was not my intention. Ps I’m not to savvy when it comes to the electrical side of things that’s why all the questions because I can’t afford to make a stupid mistake, when it comes to watts, voltage and amps it confuses the ! out of me. Lol

[jeepwm69 6,601]

22 minutes ago, Ruttinbuck said:

Jesus bud somehow we started off on the wrong foot here, I wasn’t attacking you personally. This is my first time asking this question, my info was what I’ve read on line while researching about a light bar. After not getting anywhere and becoming confused by all the different opinions I decided to join the Honda group and get the answers from the Honda people themselves. I didn’t realize asking a question would wind up like this and if I offended you in any way that was not my intention. Ps I’m not to savvy when it comes to the electrical side of things that’s why all the questions because I can’t afford to make a stupid mistake, when it comes to watts, voltage and amps it confuses the ! out of me. Lol

 

Lol, you ain't offending Fish.  He's teasing you in cajun.

 

If you're looking for the "engineer" answer then you'll have to wait for one of the smarter guys to chime in.

 

If you just want a "will it work" then yes, it will work fine and not damage anything, assuming you don't try to run a bunch of other crap (heated grips, stereos etc) at the same time.

 

I put a 24" light bar on my kid's 05 350 Rancher, wires to the high beam switch.  Has worked fine for years, no issues.

[Ruttinbuck 3]

Just got our wires crossed no pun intended, lol no I wasn’t looking for an engineer answer, I just wanted to know if I could run that light bar without any issues.  I would prefer tapping into my high beam and it seems you did without any problems. Looking things up on the net can be confusing at times like I said some say you can and some say you can’t, that’s why I came here to get the right answer. Thanks appreciated 

[Goober 1,547]

I would wire it as a separate accessory using a waterproof switch.

 

[Ruttinbuck 3]

Thanks, that’s another option to consider, I have some time to think about because it’s too ! cold here to do the job out doors. Lol appreciate the input.

[Goober 1,547]

For me it was the easiest for two small light pods. I made a little Y harness with two male bullet connectors and a female. 18-22 gauge. Better yet if you can scrounge an old harness, salvage the connectors. 
 

Disco the power lead from your accessory harness and plug in the bottom of the Y harness into the accessory circuit feed connector. Plug one of the upper back into the accessory and you’ll restore the accessory circuit.

Use The other upper to connect to the handlebar switch. This will then feed your light bar thru the fused accessory circuit.

 

here’s the main reason these harnesses come fused and with a (40A) relay. Manufacturers build most of these kits with a small amp control circuit and a high amp power circuit. This allows control for any size light pod up to 30-40Amps; use of the 40A relay prevents switch damage due to arcing which would occur with high current draw. 

 

What you asked for — issues you might experience by hooking directly into your light switch: 

Faulty installation of wires by tampering with the switch—leading to switch failure.

not being able to optimally regulate use of your lighting and battery draw ( lo, hi and accessory). You’ll only have Low and Superbright.

not being able to add on more lighting to circuit configuration.

Overheating of the switch harness.

Arcing within the switch which could lead to failure of the switch.

P=IE P=Watts I =Amps E=Volts

assuming your pod draws 4 Amps.

P= (4A x 12V) gives 48W

Edited December 31, 2021 by Goober

[Ruttinbuck 3]

Thanks for the info, I might go with the separate wire harness since I already purchased it with the light. I thinking of running a reverse light off the same harness but with a separate switch.