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Andy bauska

Rear brakes not working on my 300

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Hello everyone, I need a little advice about the rear brakes on my Honda. Back around Christmas time, I got snow in the rear brakes. It froze overnight, and I had to heat the backing plate before I could get it to move. After words, I pulled it apart to clean up the brakes. After I reassembled it, I haven't got the brakes to work right. If I adjust the breaks up to where I get a good bite on it, the machine won't move, and in some places the break drags very badly, and the break lever really loose. I flipped the axle around, so the drum had a tighter spline to ride on (the one was pretty loose) and it's helped, but not very much. I also replaced the bearing, and no improvement. So, what do you think? Out of round drum? Not evenly worn pads? Bent axle? I don't know what to do, so any help is welcomed.

 

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Rear brakes on Hondas don't last once they lose the initial seal.  Once water gets in there they never work well for long.

 

Sounds like you have either unevenly worn pads, or a drum that's out of spec. 

 

The drums are aluminum, so they don't last long, and they're $$$ to replace, thus most people just give up, put discs on the front, and live with it.


I fought the rear drum brakes on my machines for years, constantly messing with them, only to have them go spongy again soon after.  I finally gave up on them and only use the front brakes now. 

 

I might try the SuperATV rear disc conversion at some point.  Was really hoping they would offer a hydraulic version at some point, where I wouldn't have to modify the system like @Fishfiles did on his 450

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I've actually entertained putting a disk on the back, but I still have the stock rims which are 11" and I think I need 12" Also, I think do you should try a new set of pads?

 

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There is no 300 rear disc brake conversion kit , yet  

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34 minutes ago, Andy bauska said:

Do you think it's more likely that the pads are the problem or the drum?

 

Without taking it apart , it would be nothing more than a guess    ---    re-index the brake cam to the arm --- go two teeth 

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I've already played with that adjustment, and it doesn't help. The brakes will be super easy to turn in one place and get so hard you can't turn it. Almost like the drum is out of round.

 

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10 minutes ago, Andy bauska said:

I've already played with that adjustment, and it doesn't help. The brakes will be super easy to turn in one place and get so hard you can't turn it. Almost like the drum is out of round.

 

  it has to help or your not doing it right --- I am not talking about an adjustment , take the arm off , turn it a couple of teeth  and then reattach it 

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No. I can’t assume your dad knows how to turn a brake drum.

 

for $20 you can take it to Bo (Bo knows😁); also know your minimum drum thickness. 

 

And maybe. If turning the drum will make it too thin, then obviously yes

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My dad knows how to do that sort of stuff, he is very smart and mechanical. He is a brilliant man, and I'm most proud to call him my father! And do you know what the minimum thickness can be off of your head? If not, I can always look in the book.

 

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Think about it , if re-indexing the brake cam to brake arm doesn't work for " you " to take up slack and make  the shoes contact the drum  more , then having the drum turned is just going to make it worse for " you " 

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Posted (edited)

When I adjust the brakes up to the point where I get a good bite on them, it only turns freely for about a quarter of a turn and gets so tight I can't even move it. If you drive the rig around, the machine will be lots slower, the brake will squeak, it will lack power, and the break assembly will get so hot that you could cook an egg on it. This indicates to me there is something out of round. But I don't know.

 

 

Edited by Andy bauska

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