Goober 1,555 Posted February 3 (edited) i made a bearing locknut removal tool for $9. steering on my 86 TRX350 quad was a little sloppy so following @shadetree advice i bought a new steering shaft bushing, bearing and seals. couldn’t buy or find the 07GMA-HA70200 steering shaft bearing lock nut removal tool. So i hope to make this easily searchable so others can do their steering shafts. Used a 7/8” x 3” grade-8 bolt and a 7/8-9 castellated nut to make a shop-built lock nut removal tool. I used the castellated nut as the mating piece for the bearing locknut. $8.26 total. The SAE castellated nut was just a bit larger than the ~25mm hex pattern of the locknut. I didn’t buy metric because the hardware store didn’t have any large metric nuts and bolts—plus i only had large SAE wrenches. I’m sure one could use a metric bolt and nut to make a similar tool, without filing—but would have to have a large metric socket. So i used a flat bas-tard file across all the castellated nut faces—at least 150 to 200 strokes each—til it fit into the lock nut. I marked every flat with a marker to make sure i got every flat an equal number of strokes. I rolled the nut over every cycle to ensure a flat grind on each face. And remarked. i used a large stake point chisel and 32 ounce ball-peen hammer to stake each notch section against the bolt. I would’ve preferred to weld them but this worked. i used two 4x4 and four wood clamps to make a vice, then used a large socket to support the steering shaft stay. A 1 3/8” socket with a 3/4 inch drive breaker bar was used on the shop tool to loosen the lock nut, which is secured by red thread locker. i drove the old bearing out with a 1 inch brass drift and put new bearing in with a very large wooden dowel. I used the tool to reinstall the locknut (red threadlocker) and torqued to minimum 37 inch pounds. My steering did tighten up. Not completely BUT now when i turn the bars, the front wheels move without lag. Time to test ride!! Edited February 3 by Goober 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goober 1,555 Posted February 3 (edited) BTW the service manual says to remove the swing arm—no you do not. i unbolted the dash and laid it on the airbox; then unbolted the handlebars and headlight bracket and laid them forward. After I unbolted the steering shaft, i used a picklefork to easily pry the steering pivot assembly from the shaft. The shaft pulled right up and out. i then slid the old bushing off; greased the new one and slipped it on. Then I unbolted the steering shaft stay (with the bearing). It only goes on one way. Such an easy job. Edited February 3 by Goober 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeepwm69 7,236 Posted February 3 Great write up Goober! 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 3,882 Posted February 4 This thread is pinned to the top as a sticky! Thanks for the excellent how-to @Goober! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goober 1,555 Posted February 4 Thanks very much. I try to keep it simple but proper. I have to do my other 86, so i will try making a better-sized dowel. I found someone who makes and sells wrench adapters but for Yamahas; i will have to ask them if they’re the same size and Honda. https://www.nicecnc.com/products/steering-stem-bearing-nut-bolt-removal-tool?currency=USD&variant=42250587701478&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_dfr3qP6_AIVp8iUCR3UGAEBEAQYAiABEgK8wPD_BwE Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
