Proper brake adjustment procedures?

[bigcountry78 25]

So the brakes on my 2001 rancher are better than when I bought it, but still not “right”. So, what’s the agreed upon procedure for getting them adjusted to factory specs? On the front, do the shoes need to just slightly touch the drum while released, like on a truck or a car? Or do they need to be just barely backed off from touching? Same with the rear? 
 

At the rear, do you make the initial adjustment at the cam, and then fine tune with the wing nuts? The rears give me the most trouble, it seems almost impossible to get the front and rear cables tuned in with the double mechanism they use. But, I know it’s possible as the dealer always seems to get them right. 
 

And finally, what can I use to keep the rear cam moving like it should? Mine moves freely, but when the rear brakes are used, either with the handle or the foot lever, it’s like it moves too far, gets stuck, and I have to smack it to get it to release. I cleaned and greased it when I first bought the machine, but that didn’t last. And, I haven’t been in any significant water or mud, just normal dirt roads mostly. 

[jeepwm69 7,233]

On 9/3/2023 at 12:21 PM, bigcountry78 said:

So the brakes on my 2001 rancher are better than when I bought it, but still not “right”. So, what’s the agreed upon procedure for getting them adjusted to factory specs? On the front, do the shoes need to just slightly touch the drum while released, like on a truck or a car? Or do they need to be just barely backed off from touching? Same with the rear? 
 

At the rear, do you make the initial adjustment at the cam, and then fine tune with the wing nuts? The rears give me the most trouble, it seems almost impossible to get the front and rear cables tuned in with the double mechanism they use. But, I know it’s possible as the dealer always seems to get them right. 
 

And finally, what can I use to keep the rear cam moving like it should? Mine moves freely, but when the rear brakes are used, either with the handle or the foot lever, it’s like it moves too far, gets stuck, and I have to smack it to get it to release. I cleaned and greased it when I first bought the machine, but that didn’t last. And, I haven’t been in any significant water or mud, just normal dirt roads mostly. 

 

I'm dealing with the same issue on the Rubicon rear brake panel I've been working on.

 

I think the biggest issue is the drums are aluminum, so between pad wear and drum wear, you have to rotate the cam further than you should to get engagement, and then the cam pin sticks where it rotates against the brake pads.

 

I've got a set of new (aftermarket) pads ordered for my rear panel, and will report back on how that works.  I haven't had good luck with them in the past, as they are oversized (likely by design, with the assumption that the drum will be worn) and are a PITA to get to fit properly.    That said, buying new OEM would also require buying a new drum to get the proper clearance.

 

The rear brakes on these just suck, so for the most part I don't even try to keep them functional.  The rear brakes on the wife's Rubicon work well, and I thought I would try to get these on my Rubicon working, but if the new pads don't get it fixed I'm going to seal it up and run without rear brakes like I do on my Foremans.

[bigcountry78 25]

You might be on to something. Anyway, let me know what you find out, if anything. I wouldn’t be as worried about it if the rear wasn’t also the parking brake. I’d at least like to have that work.

[toodeep 1,737]

On the rear. If you jumped the brake arm one notch on the cam (there is a dot on each to line up) then the brake shoes are worn and more than likely the drum a little as well. Add a little spring to help pull the arm back and that will let you get the most out of what looks to be perfectly fine yet still worn out. Factory, just the wingnuts are suppose to be adjusted. 

 

On the front I adjust each shoe until you feel resistance and then back it off so the wheel spins free. It might take a ride and some braking to get the shoes in place if they was taken apart so sometimes it takes a couple times to get them good.

[ATC4ever 1,014]

17 hours ago, toodeep said:

 

 

On the front I adjust each shoe until you feel resistance and then back it off so the wheel spins free. It might take a ride and some braking to get the shoes in place if they was taken apart so sometimes it takes a couple times to get them good.

I have done this too, i leave the wheel on so theres more weight to spin it, & once theres a little resistance i try it out to see if it pulls to 1 side or not. If it doesnt, i leave it.