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Rolandtd

2016 rancher intake valve knock

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Hey everyone new to the forums I picked up a 2016 rancher from a buddy recently and redid the top end and put a remanned head on it. The issue is I'm getting a nasty knock when the intake valve spring comes back up and even after adjusting valves to specs and watching while I turn engine by hand the intake valve comes up hard making a knock sound. Only things original are the pushrods and rocker arms. When at TDC the intake pushrod sits slightly higher.  Uploading a little video of it. Anyone got any ideas? 

Edited by Rolandtd

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HI , welcome to the forum   >>> sounds to me like the valve stem is bent or sticking ---where is the " reman" head from ?

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Just now, Rolandtd said:

Thanks for the reply I got it from powersportsnation

PSN is a good source >>>>   so they rebuilt it ? or just sold it as a used take off part ? 

 

Did you ever hear this engine run yet /  Could you have adjusted the valves on the wrong stroke ? 

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Just ordered one that was already built just need to send my core in. I had it running and the knocking didn't stop. I adjusted it on compression which seems to be when the intake valve closes. I got the valve cover of just looking around. At one point though when it was TDC the valve was tight like after I took the tappet adjuster completely off zero play between rocker and spring

Edited by Rolandtd

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Welcome to the forum!

I agree with Fish above and I would recheck the timing and valve adjustment

Did you replace cam chain by chance? I was wondering if you might be a tooth off on timing chain/cam?

PSN has pretty good remans, with OEM head and valves ( at least in my experience)

Let us know what you find out

-AKATV

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If you didn’t change your cam chain, then it would be a non-issue, but you might want to ask your buddy if he possibly did as well.

when you adjust the valves, I always wait for the intake valve to open and then close and then look for the T on the fly wheel in the window, as you keep turning -then adjust your valves

-AKATV

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He didn't. It has had a hard life though.  2600 miles and sink at least once some years ago. That's how I was adjusting it just haven't been able to figure out the knock

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Got the front cover pulled forward some and looks good I'll post a pic. Had this bearing come out idk where it goes. Couldn't get the cover out completely for some reason

16955080563238792377325784212130.jpg

16955081315106164731437483685387.jpg

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You need to find top dead center
Like you’re adjusting for valves

make sure your cam alignment dot is aligned with that arrow on the top of the case

i’m not seeing it aligned right now, but it might just be my eyes or the picture lol

I believe that hole in he cam that has the white mark arrow is supposed to be aligned with the top arrow in the casting above the cam when you’re at top dead center

The bearing looks like your front cover bearing for the crankshaft. Sometimes they come out when you pull the cover

Just have to put it back in the case before you reinstall.

verify top dead center, flywheel marks on the T, your valve, clearance and cam alignment/timing chain all at the same time

Edited by AKATV

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Keep in mind there is 2 Top Dead Center’s- one on the exhaust stroke and one on the compression stroke

you want to make sure did you see that T on the flywheel right after you see that intake valve close

Once you have that T mark on the flywheel aligned,  you want to make sure your cam alignment is spot on

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Got it spun to TDC and the intake side is tight zero play I can even move the whole spring down by tightening the tappet but the rockers holding down on the spring.

Edited by Rolandtd

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I believe it to be out of time on top of that rocker being tight I'm just a small bit off on the cam as seen in pic. Other than that no slack in the chain surprisingly

20230923_195735.jpg

Edited by Rolandtd

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Yeah that's TDC on crank. Looks like a hair off to me. It was running just didn't have the same power as my other rancher plus the knock.

Edited by Rolandtd

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And that Cam comes into alignment with the T on  on the fly wheel, right?

It almost sounds like you’re 180° out -as if you had

set valves on exhaust stroke instead of compression stroke -I am puzzled for sure

Let me ask you this, if you rotate that cam, one more rotation and when it lines back up with the casting like in the picture again, are your valves tight or loose?

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If I go just a hair past the point  in the previous pic both valves loosen a little I'll try and post a video of how it does and play it gets. If I go 180 to exhaust stroke that's the pic I got with videos I got play in both valves.  Had to edit the video to multiple parts.

16955498955491772035795456289270.jpg

Edited by Rolandtd

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Are you using the T mark on the fly wheel for TDC reference? 
I am assuming this engine did not have this issue prior to replacing the head?

AKATV

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Yes using the t mark on the crank through inspection hole and checking the cam mark. It needed a top end which I did had it run just not well and had the knock on the old head too. Should the pushrod be the same length atTDC? Intake side is slightly higher.

20230924_083621.jpg

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At top dead center both lobes of the cam should be facing downward, so the lifters should not be contacting anything to be lifting them up
If you turn the cam 180 are they equal then?

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It might be worth putting a screwdriver or something somewhere down the spark plug hole and make sure the piston is at top dead center of travel when the T shows in the window

You might have sheared or partially sheared the flywheel key

I have also heard of the cam gears slipping on the camshaft as I believe they are just pressed on for that model

also, wondering if you might have a failed decompressor mechanism on the camshaft that’s causing problems

Might be worth inspecting both and then verify and reset all timing alignments

 

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