Coleworld 1 Posted March 19, 2020 Spoiler I changed the regulator rectifier on my 300. Whenever I have the positive and negative leads to the rectifier plugged into the wiring harness it blows the 15 amp fuse. Even after I changed the rectifier it continues to blow the fuse. I’ve traced out the entire wiring harness and have found no shorts to ground. I’ve even removed the entire harness except the rectifier. The coil ground and the positive from the battery and still blowing fuse. Any ideas. I’m stumped Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shadetree 5,970 Posted March 19, 2020 start tracing from the stator, as this is the source of where the power comes from. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coleworld 1 Posted March 19, 2020 The three wire pig tail that goes to the stator is unplugged. The fuse blows immediately. I attempted to jump the fuse and it’s pulling so many amps that the wire starts to burn Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fishfiles 20,147 Posted March 19, 2020 Cole' , welcome to the site -------- I read on the other site where you had this problem and changed the regulator with a after market regulator and still have the same problem , I have seen so many times now that after market electrical parts from china are junk , that if it were me I would try a OEM regulator to start with ------ I know fuses can get expensive when troubleshooting a short , if you have a volt meter , you can take the fuse out , and stick one lead of the the meter on each terminal of the fuse holder , then just watch the meter and save fuses 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 797 Posted March 19, 2020 Hi: If it doesn't blow the fuse when the rectifier is not connected -- and blow the fuse when the rectifier is connected you have a bad rectifier. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fishfiles 20,147 Posted March 19, 2020 Coleworld , I live in southeast Louisiana and there were a few stores called Cole's Rental World that rented heavy equipment , they sold out to the company I worked for , as far as heavy equipment side went and are now Cole's Party Rental World or such would that be a relation ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coleworld 1 Posted March 19, 2020 No sir. I live in Nevada 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coleworld 1 Posted March 31, 2020 So I finally received my oem regulator and the situation is the same. As soon as I plug the red and green terminals in it blows the fuse. I tested the stator and it tested fine. I also noticed the neutral light won’t illuminate and it won’t try to start without the rectifier plugged in. Any advice? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 797 Posted March 31, 2020 What year is your TRX300 or is it a 300EX Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coleworld 1 Posted March 31, 2020 It’s a 1997 Honda trx fw 300 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shadetree 5,970 Posted March 31, 2020 4 minutes ago, Coleworld said: It’s a 1997 Honda trx fw 300 cole, pm me your cell number Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shadetree 5,970 Posted March 31, 2020 incase ya dont ?, my thinking is a short some where between the battery , and the ignition switch. maybe trace from battery to the two fuses, all in that area , you have a hot wire touch frame ?, or something from battery to reg/rec is not hooked up correct ?, or the ignition switch is grounding out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 797 Posted March 31, 2020 Is the battery connected up right Red & Green wire on reg/rec connected right Diode tested good and placed in correctly Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fishfiles 20,147 Posted March 31, 2020 Mel , beat me to it , I was licking my lips , thinking I might know what it was and wammmm, Mel shoots it out -------------- you can get to that diode with out taking the front rack and fender off , but it sure is easier to take them off , it is inside the black box on the front of the steering shaft ----getting it out with the fender on is easier than getting it back in the box with the fender on Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
