shadetree

yeah..deff stay away from ebay carbs that sell cheaper, this is a red flag they are china carbs..china carbs are a hit or miss..most times miss..lol. you get what you pay for !.

if you have the correct oem harness ?, and the ignition switch wires do not match ?, this tells me you have a china ignition switch, which are very prone to not matching because of copy rights issue.

unless you are buying oem from honda ?, i would not buy anything else, unless its a used carb ?, then you face the trouble of matching the numbers. 16100-HM8-A41 is the correct part number that i found over on rocky mountain atv.

you will have to pull front cover in order to replace this screw/bolt. you can adjust on it all day long, but if the clutches are worn out ?, it won't make any difference how you adjust it. normally when i adjust my clutch, i turn the screw , while holding lock nut all the way counter clockwise, then turn the center screw about 1/4 to 1/2 a turn clockwise, then i lock down the lock nut. if the clutch is worn ?, it will take a few tries to get it adjusted good.

yes, wrong oil can cause it to slip, just as well as a worn clutch. i never buy anything from amazon !..unless ?!..its been discontinued from honda ?, and thats a stretch even if this is the case, as most stuff from amazon is all made in china.

just looking at, or smelling ?..no..there is no way that i know of if the oil is the correct oil ?. just change it, better to be safe than sorry !. it needs to have wet-clutch approved oil in it. after you change the oil, and its still feels like its slipping ?..which very well may be ?, we'll get ya fixed up on that.

well..i use alot of clymers manuals, and to this day..i have no issues understanding them ?, then again..i also know '' most '' honda atvs by heart..soo..take it for what its worth.

rofl. you can download the service manual from our site here for free !. i must give credit where credit is due ?..you winging it is a sure fire way of learning !..lol. 30 plus yrs ago..i was like you..i just dug in..started doing this on atvs..but !!..i also was smart enough to get my hands on service manuals for the project at hand ?!. this gave me a heads up what i was facing. no..you are not a goober !..worse case..you learned real quickly from your mistake..and this means one thing..YOU LEARNED SOMETHING !.

i just have to ask ?!, lol..do you...or do you not have a service manual at your side ?..lol. if you were reading the service manual, you would be able to see how the left rear side goes back together. when you have been doing these kinda repairs for over 30 yrs like me, you won't need a service manual..lol. its all in my old memory ..lol.

lol..you have to slide this piece onto the axle BEFORE you install the tube, it goes on the inside of the bearing, flat part faces bearing.. sooo..do this, remove the left rear tube, slide the bearing stopper onto the axle with tapered side facing rear diff, flat side out, then install the tube back onto the rear diff. once this is done, you can now install the left rear wheel hub.

yep, i always grease the axle splines where the ring gear rides, as well as the brake drum splines, brake cam area in the backing plate, and where the brake shoes ride. be careful not to get too much grease where the brake shoes ride ?, or you will get grease on the brake shoes.

yep..that piece !..lol.

do not lose or forget to put the bearing race keeper back on the left rear side !. this is a very important piece to keep the hub and wheel on !..lol. its flat on one side, tapered on the other side. flat side faces out towards hub.

what did you discover keeping the brake drum from coming off ?. a bench grinder with a wire wheel is what i clean up alot of brake parts with. as for the inside of the brake drum, i use my dremel with a grinding stone to knock off the rust/build up. if you do not have a dremel ?, just use some 220 grit sand paper, but this will take a few min's to get down to bare metal..lol.

#3 in this fich --> Honda ATV 2001 OEM Parts Diagram for Rear Brake / Panel | Partzilla.com , is what catches on the edge of the brake shoes. this takes place when the metal on the drum wears down below the shoes edge, this keeps the drum from slidding off.

yeah, just unbolt the backing plate..slide it off the axle..it should all come off in one piece, then you will just have the drum stuck on the backing plate, with the shoes holding it on the drum.

the way i do it: i center the brake cam , by doing this..i mean working the brake cam back and forth while i turn the drum, you can feel when the shoes are rubbing the drum on the inside. try to get the brake shoes centered in this process, when you get them centered, you will know this when the drum spins real easy, from here on out..its just a matter of prying the drum off...if the spring is catching on the shoes ?, you will have to hammer and carefully pry the drum off, over the spring clip.

however !.. you can unbolt the backing plate, slide it off the axle all in once piece.

if that large retainer clip is hanging up on the edge of the brake shoes ?, this is why it won't come off. just remove the left rear axle nut and wheel. unbolt the brakes backing plate, slide the whole axle and brake, backing plate all off in one piece. then you can hammer the axle out of the brake drum. once this is done, then you can get an idea as to why the drum wont come off ?. chances are..the drum is hanging up on the large spring clip like i said.

haha...was just fixing to post a pic of the axle, and explain it to him why it wont come out..lol.

you cannot slide the axle out of the backing plate, there is a bearing on the inside of the backing plate for one, and for two, the axle has a raised part on it keeping it from coming all the way out through the backing plate. the axle HAS to go inwards in order to get the brakes backing plate off.

yep, but you are not going to like it..lol. pull the whole drum and axle out of the rear diff, then use a press to press the axle out of the drum. BEFORE YOU DO THIS ! : BE SURE THE BRAKE SHOES ARE NOT HOLDING THE DRUM ON ?!. just because you can move the brake cam, does not mean the brake shoes are stopping the drum from coming off ?!. the inside of the brake drum has a metal stopper ring on the edge, it had hang up on the brake shoes once its close to the edge of the brake shoes.

see if the reverse cable is working correctly ?. if its not pullling the lever back far enough ?, then its posb the shift motor is not clearing the reverse lever.

@AKATV is the man to help you.

welcome to our forums chris, you deff are in great hands here. here in the states we call the trx300 a trx300 fourtrax., but yes..they also were known as 300 bigred around the world.