shadetree

umm..no..they won't..cuz they are already dead !..lol.

update: got a doe and button buck sat nov 11th opening day, then monday morning i dropped this 4 point from 100 yrds. came home today, i'm wore out. dropped off all my deer meat at hog's meat market to process. here is the 4 pointer i got monday morning. my blind is here by broken in !..lol.

if you look at the top of that switch ^^ there is the letter N stamped on there. the long end of the small roll pin faces this letter N. ground the switch to the engine for a ground, make sure the roll pin's long end faces that letter N, you should get a neutral light on the dash when you turn the key on, that is..if your neutral light bulb is good on the dash ?. worst case, your shift drum on the end is snapped off, and not spinning the netrual switch when you shift t neutral. you can check this with a flat blade screw driver stabbed into the back end of the shift drum while you have the rear engine cover off. if you can spin that slot easily around ?, then yes...the end of the shift drum has snapped off. if this is the case ?, then this means you will have to split the engine in order to change out the shift drum.

i second d&b electrical ^^^, i use them all the time..very good starters, very decent price and warranty.

yikes !...lol. yeah..now yer gonna have to locate a couple drive shafts on top of a couple u-joints.

if you remove the air box ?, this will give you plenty of room to get at the starter from the top, back end.

if he can get a u-joint to spline both ends there at the swing arm..this would work.

if you look closely...he's already got two drive shafts going to rear end as it is. most drive shafts stop right at the end of swing arm, he's got an extension tapped into the swing arm drive shaft.

chances are...if the dash is not showing a neutral light ?, then yes...the fuel system will not work.

can ya give us an idea what you are trying to get too..fix ?. with it being deer season down here in arkansas, it leaves me no time to make a road trip..lol. it will be a couple weeks b4 i am back. i am sure someone that hangs around here would be more than glad to lend a few kind words to help you get your issue fixed.

have you thought about adding shocks to the swing arm to raise the swing arm up some ?.

if you can weld ?, weld up a drop tubbing under the drive shaft , this will let it clear the output shaft.

ty toodeep, i forgot it was shaft drive ?..dang i hate getting old !.

please keep us posted on this project !, you very well may help someone else with the same problem !.

do you have a 12vdc test light ?. if you do ?, one with a sharp point will work great for this test. ground test light to neg on battery, or engine somewhere to get a good ground, most have a clip that lets you clip it to somewhere. once grounded, turn key on, then carefully poke green wire with red stripe wire...when you do this, you should not only get the test light to light up, but the green light on dash as well. if and when this takes place, this tells me your gear position switch is bad. you may have to do the gray wire, red stripe wire same way ?, its been a min sense i worked on one..lol.

well..i see you are trying to take a square peg..and fit it into a round hole ?!..lol. here's an idea. maybe try adapting a roller guide for the chain, this way you can put the engine back at the correct angle. the oil pump is on same side as the clutches, which in this case, are on right hand side.

whewww..glad you were smart enough to check the rod !. good deal :-).

and in the time it takes you to do all that ^^ ?, i can split my engine, clean it out, install it ONCE !..ROFL. you dang green horns never listen eh ?..rofl.

please make sure you check the connecting rod BEFORE you go putting a top end back on it ?!!!. time after time, atv owners toss top ends on an engine, failing to inspect the rod for any side to side, or up and down play ?, if this is the case ?, you MUST replace the connecting rod,or the whole crank. be sure to replace the crank bearings !!!.

word from the wise: there is no such thing as clear water !..lol.

both of my 30-30's, marlin 336, and my Winchester model '94 30-30 are lever action, love the marlin...the '94 stays in the safe..lol.

yep..already picked up 150 rds of 5.56..lol.

he does not work on them any more...he has not touched an atv is some time, he tinkers with them here an there...but never works on them like i do.

if it was sunk in water, its best to pull engine, split it, clean it out very good, there is no short cuts to rebuilding a engine. just doing a top end will not last long if its been sunk in deep water.

yeah..inspect for mice damage, and spray some wd-40 into the kill switch. if you have a neutral light, then i would do a good check at reg/rec, as well as the stator harness area for mice damage.