shadetree

22 minutes ago, TrxPipUK said:

I'm going to get a compression tester and try the starting fluid. Any idea if brake cleaner would work as a starting fluid lol?

I'll read up on the engine in the manual and learn some stuff haha. Printing a few copies out sounds like a good idea, instead of just having it digital. 

Thanks Goober!

I have never used brake cleaner ?? cant say ??, starting fluid or carb cleaner, but starting fluid ( short burst ! )..works best !.

1 hour ago, Goober said:

Pip

you have to get to the valve covers, so you have to pull the air cleaner box.

 

heres a pic of the valves—intake set to the inboard, exhaust outboard to front of quad.

 

Take off the generator inspection and flywheel covers as you rotate that flywheel through two revolutions you'll see the valves open and close. 
Don’t rotate backwards!!!

someone please explain to me why in the world your not suppose to rotate these, or any atv motor for that matter ?!...backwards ????, i've done it all my 28 years, and i've yet to run into any problems !, soooooooo..someone tell me why you can not, or should not rotate these motors backwards ?, i'm not talking about  full 360 backwards, i'm talking about enough to see intake valves move, which is about 180 ( give or take ? ).

14 minutes ago, 86 Rider said:

why does the header pipe have 2 tubes coming out of a single cylinder engine ?

 

sorry if it is a stupid question  lol

 

every one of these models are like this. same goes for the atc350x, which is the same engine in this model. single cylinder, twin exhaust into one, 2 intake valves, 2 exhaust valves.

1 minute ago, TrxPipUK said:

Oh dear hahah. Well if it comes to tearing the top end down I'll do it lol. It'll just be a pain in the butt. I wouldn't need to take any side covers off or mess with the bottom end would I? I really hope not lol

if the cam chain is stretched ?, then YES, you will need to remove the right side cover in order to replace the cam chain, which means..removing lots of parts to change the chain out...lol.

welcome ted , bout time you joined us !!..lol.

for the record ?, your engine is the same engine I rebuilt on the '88 trx350D foreman 4x4 project here !. that should make you shiver a tad huh ?.lol.

sooooooooo..starting fluid is first, no go ?, then compression test, no go ?, then its time to tear the top end down, check timing marks , no go ?, new cam chain is called for, as well as a complete tear down of the top end, I just knowwwwwwwwwww you wanted to read all this huh ?..lol.

if by a small chance you have to end up taking the top end down to check those timing marks ^^^^^ ?, and your flywheel is sitting on the T, lobes down, and those marks dont line up like they do in my pic ^^^^ ?, then chances are, your cam chain is stretched !!!!!!!!!!!. this means a tear down on right side cover, and a lot of parts must come out..lol.

my memory is older now..lol, but if I am even close to it ?, your looking for over 200 psi ?, I dont have my manual in front of me ?, but I know I am close !. yes..the psi is much higher on these old gals, no clue why ?, but it is !.

1 minute ago, TrxPipUK said:

Okay thanks for that dude. If I have no luck with the starting fluid I'll get back to you and go from there I guess lol. Thanks for your help, very kind man

np, glad I could help ya out here !. again, please try the compression test first, BEFORE you start tearing into the top end !!!. get back to us with your test readings !!!!.

please do not attempt any of my directions above ^^^^^^, until you run a compression test FIRST !!!!. if and when you get your hands on a compression tester kit ?, screwed into spark plug, hold throttle wide open when cranking it over, after a few sec's, look to see what your reading is ?, then post it here.

do not use any kind of RTV sealant on the rocker box !!!!!. it must be yamabond or hondabond !!!!!!!!!!!!!!.

2 minutes ago, TrxPipUK said:

Okay thanks man. I'll test with starter fluid later today. I don't have a compression tester, are they all the same if I order one online?

I do not know if they all are the same ?, I bought mine from sears years ago, it came with all the adapters for different size spark plug holes. I can't remember or not if the spark plugs on these are 17mm or 18mm ( the threads ),  take a spark plug with ya, compare it to the measurements on the kit.

to check timing , you really need to down load the service manual from here !. but I will type it out here. left side cover, there should be a small cap with a slot in it ?, remove it. inside, behind this is your flywheel, on the very edge of the flywheel is some letters and symbols, your looking for the letter T. remove the spark plug, rotate the crank by removing the larger cap on same left side, it also has a large slot in it, behind it is a 17mm bolt, you will need to turn the crank from this bolt. next step gets alittle deeper.

you must remove the rocker box, this means you will need to remove the air box as well. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A TUBE OF HONDABOND OR YAMABOND ON HAND ?, YOU WILL NEED IT TO SEAL THE ROCKER BOX BACK UP WHEN DONE !. once the letter T shows in sight hole, cam lobes should be showing face down towards head ?, you now need to look at your cam sprocket, timing marks will look like the ones I posted in my pic here. 

Just now, TrxPipUK said:

Yes I'm getting spark. Pulled the plug out last night and tested it in the same way you said to. 

I'll get some starting fluid today and try with that. How would I go about checking if it's out of time, looking for bent/stuck valves or seeing if the rings are worn if that's the problem? 

one step at a time bro !. you need a can of starting fluid or carb cleaner ?. a VERY SMALL BURST ! into the back side of the carb, then try cranking it over, if it '' hits '' ( runs for a sec or two ) ?, then you have a fuel delivery issue. if it does not ?, then your next move will be to check the compression with a compression tester tool.

26 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

I told this story before , it had a dramatic affect on how I view things , the Johanna Witness ladies stopped by , I am Catholic , but talked with them a few times , cause the younger one was pretty hot , LOL  , the older lady looked around and asked about all the 4 wheelers , she says " can I ask how old you are " , I told her and she says " , how many more years do you think you can ride 4 wheelers before you can't do it any more " , then she says , "10 years maybe , there are 52 weekends in a year , so that is 520 more weekends " , when I looked at it like that , I started partying like it was 1999 , that was about 5 years ago , so by those numbers I only got 260 weekends left in me , LOL 

 

I seen it so many times , people retire and can't do the things they want to do any more cause their body won't let them , so I am living my retirement now 

I hear ya fish !. I dont worry about not being able to do this work, shoot..i'm still picking up these old 350 motors complete, and rocking them into frames, and this is with a bad leg !!!..lol.

bottom line : if your getting spark at plug the way I told you too check it ^^^^^ ?, then this means your piston is out of time ?, or compression is way off ?, this can be from worn rings ?, worn cylinder ?, bent valve ?, stuck valve ?, most times valves only bend from the cam chain being stretched, and letting the piston smack one of them ?. there is 4 valves on this model, 2 intake, 2 exhaust.

10 minutes ago, TrxPipUK said:

Pretty sure it's not an electrical issue as everything is working as it should. I could be wrong though lol.

To check for a worn cylinder, rings or a bent/stuck valve I'd need to take the head off? Correct?

Thanks

take the spark plug out of the cylinder, install plug in boot, lay on engine, turn key on, kill switch in center !, crank it over, watch the spark plug for spark ?. if it sparks ?, then we know its not a ele issue. no, you do not need to pull the head ?, yet !!!. a simple compression tester tool will test for low compression, these models do require a lot more compression to run, and run right !.

1 minute ago, _Wilson_™ said:

Interesting thread, what ever you choose just do it while your health holds out.

my health is fine..for now !..lol.

3 hours ago, toodeep said:

Warn is the only company that I know of that recommends the roller with synthetic. I've used both and never noticed a difference with the synthetic line but most of my machines have the hawse fairleads. 

see above ^^^^. spec if you use a winch for a plow ?, it will never work with a hawse fairlead !!!. roller all the way when using a plow. straight pulls ?, not a problem with a hawse, but when you start going at a 90 degree angle ?, no way !.

3 hours ago, Mac102004 said:

I have a Warn winch and I assume Warn plate on my Rubicon. It was all the Honda kit. I remember with the new Rubicon's came out there was something I didn't like about the KFI mount, not sure if the winch had to be reversed or mounted upsidedown or what it was. Anyway, dealer installed mine before I bought it, so I never messed with it at all. It also has wire and a roller fairlead.

 

I should change it to synthetic cable, which I prefer. It's much safer than steel cable. I do like the roller fairlead over the Hawse style though, I really think the Hawse style is a joke, but that's just my opinion, and apparently @shadetree agrees with me which is somewhat rare....lol

scary huh ???..lol. from what I have learned, roller fairleads never cause heat from friction like a hawse fairlead does, sooo..i use nothing but a roller fairlead on all my winch installs. what you must remember ??.if you go from cable to rope, and you still have a roller fairlead ?, YOU MUST CHANGE OUT THE FIARLEAD TO A NEW SET OF ROLLERS !!!, using a roller fairlead that has ran cable over them is not a good idea on the rope, it will cause it to fray, then break.

a few more pics, its going on midnight, done for the night.

38 minutes ago, Mac102004 said:

Looks good shade. You must buy that high gloss and silver aluminum paint by the case with the amount of resto's you've done in the last few years lol.

i do stock up on silver and aluminum paint !. you should see me when i get up to the check out in wally world, i think they must think i am painting box cars or bridges ?!..lol. i tell them all the time, i restore atvs.

Just now, Mac102004 said:

lol I keep a cheap camera in the shop. Actually I'm pretty well always doing videos and taking pics while I work so nothing new for me lol

yeah, I dont have time always to clean this nasty crap off me, and digital camera's aren't free either !..lol.

ok, here's a couple pics ( gives mac the LQQK )..happy now ?!..lol. 2 seals did not make it in today, show to be here Tuesday, then I can finish the front diff. pic of header pipe painted and installed :-).