jeepwm69

Welcome aboard. Is it an FA (auto/ ES with independent rear suspension) or a 420 FE (ES, or manual electric shift on handlebar)?

Found the shifting problem. Spinning the transmission on the bench was catching in either direction. Transmission gear on the input side of the transmission.

@rich250rracer you having any luck? I’m still in the same boat with this 2013 Foreman that has no spark.

My old air cooled, carb’d Foremans are easy to work on! This EFI “bigger 420” is giving me fits!

Everything else plugged in or ?

Did not. No change. (Well it went up like 2/100’s)

Well we all know my number of working brain cells is getting pretty low in number

I think maybe @_Wilson_™ or @Wheeler painted wheels silver and found the right color? I don't envy you having to break down some 589's. Those tires have some STIFF sidewall/beads. I found @shadetree's method of smearing grease on the beads to work well for most bead leaks. I rub the beads down good with steel wool, then smear a thick gob of grease all the way around.

Thanks for reporting back! Glad to see it worked out for you!

I’m out of daylight here. I’ll see what that does in the AM. Gotta get the mini-me to bed

yes sir. I did that. On the battery side I get full voltage. When I put a fuse in I get a voltage drop across the fuse. Tried multiple fuses. Something is drawing it down

I did check and clean the grounds per @retro as well

Thank you for your help! This one is a bugger. All from using an aftermarket coil.

11.53 with my voltmeter negative probe on the battery. 11.22 with the negative voltmeter lead on the green wire on the injector plug

@Wheeler

Fuse spot shows no corrosion etc. I’ve tried a different coil and a different coil with no change. From the test on the pick up coil I think that’s good. Not sure where else to look other than the ECU, but hate to buy a $210 part if that’s not it

11.15 at coil with wires jumped

10.94v at coil 12.28 at battery

Heading home from work now. Will report back shortly

Correct, sounds like it’s time for a new oil pump. The 05–14 updated oil pump is a much better design and bolts right in. You will see that part supersedes the original oil pump part number from 01–04

10-4. Will measure that again after work. The fuse box terminals are clean with no corrosion of any kind, and no sign of melting. That said, it obviously fried something when that spark plug wire melted to the exhaust. When I picked the thing up, the ignition fuse was blown. The only spare was a 30A, so I stuck that in place, turned the key on, and smoke started pouring out of the coil (which was still grounded to the exhaust at that point). I turned the key off, and the 30A fuse did not blow during that series of events. Since then, no spark with good ignition fuse. Obviously something is fried, but finding WHAT is proving problematic.

So to clarify, plug grey plug back into ECU, remove jumper, and measure voltage on blk/red coil wire?

@Melatv with the jumper wire in place from battery positive to black\red coil wire, I got 12.71 V on the unplugged grey ECU plug. Measuring voltage directly at the battery I got 12.74 V. Obviously had been on a battery tender just prior to me taking those readings

I wouldn’t say “cut your losses and sell”, but yes, it’s not uncommon on these IRS machines with the rear brake on the driveshaft. I have a thread around here somewhere where I went through the same concern with the wife’s IRS 420. It seems to be an irritating “normal” for Rincons and other IRS Hondas. Most of my machines don’t have functional rear brakes, because the rear drum brakes on these machines don’t hold up to the mud and water I ride in. The front brakes have more than enough stopping power. On the machines I have that still have working rear brakes, I use them for a parking brake.