jeepwm69

So between the ice, family visiting, and just life in general. I’m just now getting back to this one. I pulled the tank cover off today to get to the coil and removed the aftermarket coil that someone else installed trying to fix the earlier problem and replaced it with a used OEM unit from PSN. I immediately saw the cause of the issue. The aftermarket coil had a much longer wire on it than an OEM coil, and whomever installed it did not tie it up out-of-the-way, so it was resting on the exhaust, eventually melting itself to the exhaust and shorting out and blowing the ignition fuse. I was hoping it would be as easy as replacing the call with the OEM unit I bought, but of course nothing is ever that easy. I now have 12 V at the black and red positive coil wire, but still no spark. so my question is, what else should I be looking at? I checked all the wiring connections on the ECU to make sure they were still good and I do not see anything amiss there. if I recall correctly, these coils are hot all of the time and the ECU pulses the negative wire on the coil to power the coil. Is that correct? @retro @Melatv

Well interestingly enough, the lady who cleans our building said yesterday someone "went after the mayor with a gun" So perhaps we might see a return to the good old days, when politicians were somewhat held in check out of fear of an angry mob with pitchforks and torches.

Helena-West Helena AR. Current mayor was on the city council for 12 years, and in 2021 when the previous mayor reported to the council that well #9 was failing and needed to be replaced (estimated 650K), the current mayor "Fofo" said it just needed new filters and wouldn't even call it to a vote. His last act on 12/31/22 on the city council was to double the mayor's salary (the day before he took office) and to hire an ex-mayor who was in charge 10 years ago as his "chief of staff" (at the same doubled salary of the new mayor). This prior mayor was loaned 13 million by the state to update the water system back 15 years ago or so. No one knows what happened to that money, but it obviously wasn't spent on the water system. The state apparently forgave the loan, so no one really dug into it. Fofo has openly told people he plans to get everything he can out of Helena while he's in office, and then move to Southhaven MS where he has a 2nd home. He's hired his family to mow all over town as contractors (he also raised the "no bid" contract amount to about 3x's what it was on his last day on the city council) and those contracts exceed the entire city payroll for trash/maint/water depts. The just open corruption is astounding. I don't live here, but I'm flabbergasted that the townsfolk haven't tarred and feathered him by now. He is blaming the state for not stepping in and fixing the problem, and the state, other than sending National Guard in to supply water, has been mostly silent. I think they're being smart honestly. If they swoop in and fix the problem the cronies that have pillaged this town walk away with what they stole and no consequences. I hate that people have to suffer, but I think it's necessary for people to realize that the people they put in charge need to be thoughtfully considered.

you can say that again. doesnt look like much, but that’s 19 different pvc fittings to get all that to work, plus another 4 on the other end where it connects to the building. But seriously, these women were going feral with fighting over the one original working toilet we had (only one in the building with a tank on the back that we could manually fill)

So here’s what’s been keeping me busy. The town that I work in has had several decades of corrupt leadership who have stolen tremendous amounts of money from the city. What this means is they have neglected infrastructure repairs and maintenance. The current mayor’s first act in office was to give himself and his “chief of staff“ twice their former salaries, and to hire a water department manager who had no experience and no certifications qualified him for such work. With the week of snow and ice we had last week causing higher than normal usage and more leaks in an already leaky system, the water system has completely fallen apart. One of the wells is completely dry and the other three are running at 30% capacity. So the city is completely without running water at this time and has been since last Friday. They are saying 3 to 4 weeks before any water will be restored and likely six months before it’s really fixed correctly. i’ve been hauling water to work with me since I live in a neighboring town with no water issues. Me and one other guy in an office full of women, all industrial toilets which will not flush without substantial water pressure and no tanks on the back like a home toilet that can be manually filled to flush first order of business was to install two normal toilets with tanks on the back so that we can manually fill those with bottled water to flush. Keep in mind I have a medical clinic in my building, So we have to have toilets that flush. We only had two floor mount toilets in the building so those are the only ones we can replace. All of the rest are wall mount, and a wall mount toilet with a tank is about six weeks out everywhere I could find. had a couple of Porta potty‘s brought in because the Gym members were all complaining that they couldn’t exercise. It’s hard to people make people understand that drinking water isn’t the issue, there is no water to flush toilets, wash hands, or clean the building. Yesterday the other guy at work (who farms on the side in addition to being a health educator), brought in a couple of totes that hold around 300 gallons each. We started trying to figure out how we could get that pumped into the buildings pipes. shut the water off at the meter going to the city lines, had to step down from a 2 inch fitting on the tote to a 1 inch line going into the pump, then the outlet from the pump had to have a check valve in it to keep backflow from happening, then to a garden hose which we first attempted to hook up to the outside faucet on the building. That had a backflow preventer as well so that didn’t work. We ended up going Into the cold water supply line for the kitchen sink. Clamped a shark bite onto the copper line and added a couple of adapters where we could hook up a garden hose. we now have running water again. We will have to be frequently refilling these totes, but at least we can flush our toilets at work again. National Guard has a 2000 gallon water buffalo running back-and-forth to a nearby city so they will refill our totes. We have to pull the trailer a couple of miles down the road where the National Guard is set up. was a frustrating day with 20 trips to the hardware store trying to find different adapters to make sure that we had everything like it should be, but feels good going home knowing that we at least have a temporary solution

Welcome aboard. Paging @AKATV, who is the resident meter expert. Have any pics of your meter, preferably plugged in with the headlights on so he can see what you have going on?

Possibly. Again, depends on how far out of whack it is now. I've had to turn them that much before, but it was usually right after an engine tear down, so that throws everything out of whack.

He's still around. He comes and goes as his "RLS" comes up (Real Life S*&^)

Your stock CV's will work. If your front bearings/ball joints need attention, now would be the time to swap on 07-14 420 disc brakes. They also bolt right onto your 350 Rancher arms and give you disc brakes up from using Honda parts.

Depends on how out of adjustment it is. I normally turn it back and forth a few times to clean the threads and get the bolt turning smoothly. Counter clockwise until you feel resistance, then 1/4 turn back clockwise and lock it down.

Most likely regulator. First thing I'd do is unplug it, then charge your battery. If your battery is drained again the next day, replace the regulator. If it is your regulator, do not use aftermarket replacements. OEM only, even if you buy used. Powersportsnation normally has them, and they stand behind their used parts, so if that's what your problem is, I'd check there first for a replacement.

Rear diff tells the story. Those 84 200's were one year only, and had that weird looking rear diff. https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/atv/1984/trx200-a/final-gear-rear-wheel-axle In 85 the TRX250A came out, which shared the same diff as the Big Red 250 3 wheeler.

Did you look at retros ES thread? Start there, and adjust your clutch.

My question is, while the stuff is a bit pricey, is that reuseable? My parts cleaner stuff comes in 5 gal jugs from tractor supply, and I drain the parts cleaner every once and awhile, draining through a coffee filter into a 5 gal bucket, which I then dump back into the parts washer.

What hitch mount is that?

What machine are the wheels originally from? Normally it would take 2” spacers on the rear if they are Honda or Yamaha IRS wheels. You’ll be ok with 27’s. Might be in 1st in the thick stuff. If you need lower gearing it’s easy with a 450. A TRX300FW primary gear and clutch basket is a bolt in 14.5% reduction

They are usually toed out from the factory/ dealership as they are more stable that way. Less likely to flip and get them sued. They steer easier if you set alignment straight ahead, and tires will wear unevenly. Just be aware it will be a bit less stable.

We got about 6 1/2-7 inches here according to the weather people. The wife said that’s like my “6 inches” in that it’s more like 4. Low’s in the single digits, highs in the upper teens yesterday and today. Supposed to get to low 30’s tomorrow, 36 on Thursday, then back to low 20’s for highs. Can’t wait to see my natural gas bill…..

Well I'd say you found your problem. That's going to require a little bit of brain to get out. Maybe drill a tiny hole, screw in an easy out and pull on it? Be hard to drill since it will want to spin. Maybe tack weld on it a bit and see if you can pull it out by grabbing the weld? Or just order a new cover on ebay. Used would probably be cheap.

I've put all of mine on the highest setting. That puts the shock more or less straight up and down.

Yes. I converted a 350 from ES to footshift, and the ECU will always throw error codes since it can no longer get a proper reading from the ECU. In your case, you added a bypass kit, in mine, I added a footshifter.

Yes, I have Perfex lifts on 4 different machines. It doesn't make the IRS quality by any means when it comes to the ride, but it does greatly improve over the stock suspension.

Welcome aboard. If you put an angle sensor bypass kit on, that should have eliminated the ECU from the process. Have you removed your shift motor and cleaned the gears under the shift motor? Does it TRY to shift to 2nd when you hit the upshift button in 1st? @retro's write up here kinda shows the process of cleaning up the shift motor and gears. Also, have you tried adjusting your clutch?

Perhaps where the ignition switch plugs into the main harness? Looks like there should be a R/Bl wire coming out of the main fuse. Is there also one going to the connector where the ignition switch plugs into the main harness?

Thanks for letting us know the solution. Will likely help someone else out in the future with the same problem.