jeepwm69

Are these the same in all the carbs? I have some trashed carbs in the shop, can send you one.

You sure it’s the screw and not the overflow tube?

Glad you found the place. I have a good voltage regulator as well if you want to try that, I can drop it in the mail. The TPS code I've had pop up before, and it was usually a poor connection from the main wiring harness to the ECU. Simply unplugging the ECU and plugging it back in a couple of times fixed the problem (guess the friction cleaned up the pins/sockets enough to make a good connection again). Anyhow, this one is a puzzle for sure. @retro and @Melatv are normally the electrical guys, although @toodeep @AKATV and @shadetree are pretty good at finding oddball issues like this too. All OEM parts have been used thus far, so I'll answer that question off the bat, as it's usually the first thing we look at here on electrical problems.

That would certainly be easier to check than pulling the top end.

If I recall correctly, I used OEM gaskets on the last one I went through. I think I might order an OEM gasket and see if that makes the process easier. I have at least two more of these that need to be gone through. Were this the only one I had I'd likely fish around and see if I could make the gasket I have work, but if it's a recurring problem that could be solved easily by using an OEM gasket I'd like to know that now and save myself some frustration.

If you search my threads you'll see a lot of info I've gathered as I've delved into the Hondamatics in the last year or so. Almost all of that info came from @Brian Bertram That sounds like piston slap to me, but the Hondamatics can also make some rattling noises if they're not working properly. Brian is a member here, but doesn't get on the forum much. His email is in this thread, and he does respond to emails. He also sells an oil pressure testing set up for the Rubicons on ebay, which is usually the first thing you check on a Rubicon with any sort of issues. @toodeep is pretty good at the Rubicons as well. Were that mine I'd probably pull the rockers and head and inspect the rockers and cylinder, but I don't think you want to keep running it until you determine the cause. If it is something with the Hondamatic, it might be fixable if you catch it before it gets too bad. Once they go past a certain point, you have to replace the entire Hondamatic unit, which is about $1500-2K just for the part.

Well I've done a couple and don't remember it being an issue. This comment will attract Shadetree like a moth to a flame, but I wonder if the aftermarket gasket set I bought is flimsier than an OEM gasket (so the OEM gasket would hold the pushrods in place better)? @Destructo did you use OEM gaskets or aftermarket?

@AKATV is your man. He'll be along shortly

That's what I figured, but thanks for verifying. "There is no easy way to do it, suck it up and persevere!"

Trying to get this Rubicon engine buttoned up, and ran into this early this morning. @Destructo, what was the trick? Persistence? Holding your mouth right? I got the bottom end buttoned up, got the top end on, and ran out of time this morning fighting those push rods, which want to fall over before I can get the valve cover on.

I definitely grease the bearings of the ends of the axle tubes. I take it a step further with the left side and drill a hole in the tube, add a zerk, and pump about 50 shots of grease in there. The bearings in the diff are lubed by the gear oil in the diff. That zerk and pumping a bunch of grease in the axle tube helps keep water out of the diff

I like the tractor supply implement paint. Works best if you use a spray gun and put hardener in it, but the rattle cans are pretty good too. Of course, you're very limited as to what colors you can get in the implement paint, at least from TSC. I paint all my wheels black, so it works great for my needs.

Do you have the means to break the wheels and tires down? I have a harbor freight tire changer that works fine for most ATV sized wheels. I find it much easier to deal with rims without tires. Steel wool or sandpaper, prime, paint. Blasting would be nice, but like you, I don’t have a sandblaster

Definitely steers easier with both wheels pointing straight ahead!

So Rubicon TRX500FA. Odd problem certainly. Wonder if it has to do with the diode in the fuse box? @Melatv @retro @AKATV thoughts?

Welcome aboard. First question is, what year is the machine? Second question is, did you use OEM or amazon/ebay chinese parts?

Probably be the weekend before I can use it, but I guess you know what you were doing when you sent it to me. Thank you!

So I feel like you idiot/ Jeep proofed this thing….lol What does the button on the end do?

Glad it fit OK, would love to see pics!

Welcome aboard. Have you checked the tank to make sure it's venting properly? Sitting that long you could have gunk in your petcock restricting flow, or a bug nest in your tank vent. Checked valve clearance? Take a can of starter fluid with you and next time it does it, hit it with a shot of starter fluid in the airbox. If it fires you know you have a fuel delivery problem. If not, problem is likely electrical.

And wouldn't you know I got 1/2 way to work this morning and remembered I was supposed to dig out that peak voltage tool! I'll try to remember to dig it out after work. I actually think I know exactly where I put it.

Some good ideas here!

I still have the thing in my tool box, never have tried to use it though. Plan is to tinker on the Rubicon engine I’ve had torn down early in the AM, and I’ll dig that thing out of the toolbox and make sure I understand the instructions. Thank you!

I totally agree about Brian. He spent an hour and a half on the phone with me one night talking about the different changes that were made Hondamatics and different problems that you see in them. Very knowledgeable and very eager to help just to be a good guy. I wish he was on the board more, but not everyone is a forum guy. I’m down close to Helena. My dad’s family was from up around Covington a couple of generations ago. The Hondamatic that I’m going to have to pull back out was out of a 2013 that had likely been sunk multiple times before I got it. It has good oil pressure with my gauge so I’m guessing the Hondamatic itself will likely be shot, but I’m going to pull it out and send it off to Brian to have him look it over.

Thanks for the follow up! I got the transmission back on the back of one of my extra engines tonight, and hopefully will get the whole thing done and installed soon. Have any pics of the scored oil pump?