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jeepwm69

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Everything posted by jeepwm69

  1. Shade is right on this one. It's not the water that does the damage, it's the crap/sediment in the water that screws you up. Depending on where you sink it, you might get by with a flush, or you might ruin your engine. I've sunk one of my Foremans here in Mississippi River bottoms where the mud is gumbo, which is a slick clayish mud, and I changed the oil 3-4 times and noticed no ill effects. That said, I had an extra engine ready to go into that bike, so I took a chance on it. I've sunk a Foreman in South Arkansas where they have that red dirt that is more of a sandy clay, and not only did it eat two top ends, but also my crank. After it started smoking I pulled the top end, AND the front and rear covers of the engine, and hosed it out as best I could from top and either end, then reinstalled front and rear covers and new top end. Didn't last 500 miles before it was smoking again. Pulled the engine and tore it all the way down and the connecting rod and new top end were ruined, and I found grit all up in the nicks and crannies of the inner crankcases. So, if you sink one, the cheap, but not easy way out is to not crank the engine after sinking, immediately take it hope, and completely disassemble the engine and clean it till you can eat out of it. That means splitting cases and cleaning EVERYTHING out, then reassemble. The easy way out that usually doesn't end up being cheap, is to flush the engine with diesel or multiple oil changes, and then cross your fingers and hope that the water in your engine didn't have a lot of grit in it. If you aren't lucky, plan on doing that full engine tear down mentioned in the "cheap but not easy" method, along with paying for a new top end and probably a crank rebuild. You also make sure you don't try to crank it with water in the cylinder, even if your oil stays clean. Instant bent/ ruined connecting rod.
  2. The crappy bookkeeper here (me) didn't realize that our annual license was up for renewal with our IT security subscription. If yall recall from last year, we were paying $20/ month for this service, but they required us to go annual on it, so $240/ year instead of $20/month. I wasn't watching for the renewal, and they sprung an invoice on us. Retro immediately chipped in most of what we needed to pay that invoice, so that's covered for another year, but in the meantime, we're down to about $20 in the forum kettle. I know a couple of you have made very generous donations in the last few months, so I'm hoping we might wring a little out of the non-regular donors. Even if it's only $5-10 it adds up if enough of us chip in. We have regular guys who chip in every month, and that is most appreciated, but if you haven't donated, and spend any time here, or have gotten help here from the members, please consider chipping it a little to help keep the site going. We don't need Retro trying to solely fund this site out of his social security checks. Let the old man enjoy a tiny tidbit of what he paid in over the years! To any folks who are new around here, this board was started after verticalscope (you can google them to see what they have done to the forum community as a whole) ruined a couple of older popular ATV forums. The moderators and regulars on those boards didn't like a big corp monetizing our willingness to help people with their Hondas, so we had this new board started by a couple of IT savvy members. We are ad free, non-profit, and only try to cover the costs of running the board (about $130/month if one were to average the monthly costs, give or take). We are a community of guys who like to work on ATV's, and like to help others learn to work on ATV's. I personally view them as puzzles to be solved, and enjoy trying to figure them out. So to those who have donated, or regularly donate, THANK YOU! If you haven't ever chipped in, please consider doing so, and thank you as well!
  3. Well I've never worked on a Recon, but 4th gear going out was common on the early 420 Ranchers. An updated shift drum and gearset was eventually released to fix the problem. Pricey parts when purchased new. 1st gear was a common failure on 05-08 Foremans. In 09 they beefed up that gear and the new beefier gear was a swap in replacement for the 05-08 models. So while it it certainly not a common issue, it is an issue on some machines. But if you're game, tear into that engine and see what you find. Take lots of pics! We like pics around here!
  4. That's a poke at Shadetree. He's taken on several basketcase projects over the years and for some reason the yellow machines seem to give him the biggest problems, to the point that yellow machines tend to trigger him a bit🤣 We like to tease him, but he's helped more people fix Hondas over the years than the rest of us combined. He knows his stuff! As for the wiring issue, glad you found it, and that you reported what you found. Thank you! It will very likely help someone in the future with a similar issue.
  5. I'm not familiar with the Recons, but 4th gear going out was pretty common on the early 420 Ranchers. Problem is most likely in the shift drum/transmission, which will require tearing the engine all the way apart/ splitting crankcases to inspect. If all of the other gears work ok, and 4th is the only problem, it would almost have to be a problem in the transmission/shift drum area.
  6. LOL. Shade doesn't like water riding, because he's the one that always gets the trashed sunken engines to rebuild. Dialectic grease every electrical connection on the bike. You need to have two one way valves on the drain line on the carb, and extend the vent lines coming off of the side of the carb, as well as the vent lines for the front and rear diffs, and the vent lines for the brakes as well. Take the hose from airbox to crankcase (vent) and get about 3 feet of hose, and loop that hose around the carb area several times. The idea being, if the airbox fills up with water, you want that water to have to travel upwards as much as possible so it doesn't flow straight into the crankcase. Loops makes it harder for the water to get through the line into the engine. That's where water gets into the engine most of the time. Airbox fills up, and water goes straight through that vent line into the engine. Put black RTV or silicone around the boot where the snorkel goes into the airbox.
  7. Definitely let us know how it goes. Assuming you get the engine/ drivetrain right, I'll try to help you find a source for the plastic bits as cheaply as possible.
  8. I bought it used, assume the guy I bought it from had the same issues I did. A lot of people like them, but my wife wasn't one of those people. Haven't had any complaints on the soft rear seats. The padding is thick enough where the rack isn't felt. They are pretty flimsy for what they cost, and the color fades on them fast.
  9. 8mm cap bolt on end of tensioner. Remove it and there’s a small flathead down inside the tensioner. Screw it all the way in (it’s under spring tension) and hold it while bolting it on, then release. IIRC there’s the old school way of checking the chain to see how badly it’s stretched by having tensioner all the way out, and seeing how far into place you can push the tensioner. Remember, OEM only on timing chains. Don’t put those aftermarket junk chains on there
  10. Neutral is Neutral. to shift to reverse, you hold red R button down, pull back left brake lever, then push down on the shifter. to shift to first from neutral, pull up on the shifter, then up again to second, etc etc on the ATV’s pulling up on the shifter shifts up, pushing down on shifter downshifts
  11. First gear should be between neutral and second. Are you having to hit the shifter twice to go from second to neutral? Don’t mean to stay for obvious, but trying to ascertain if there is a click from neutral to first and then I second click to second or if it goes straight to second…. Or is there a position for first but it doesn’t pull in first?
  12. I dropped two ECU’s and a voltage regulator in the mail earlier today. Hopefully you will have them by the end of the week to use testing
  13. I didn't try to start it before I tore it down. Guy I bought it from said it didn't pull, and already had the oil tank etc removed. I did reuse the cam and tensioner. Engine ran great after top end, rebuilt crank, new timing and oil pump chains. That said, I either have oil pump or Hondamatic issues, because once I got good and hot (miles from home) the Hondamatic started racheting noises and didn't want to pull. When the machine cooled down I rode it home without issues. Luckily I had an extra engine on hand, which is my current "when I have time" project. Keep in mind that like a 2007 Rubicon rear fender might be $300, a 2014 Rubicon rear fender is $157. Different years had different part numbers, with the difference usually only being the sticker on the fender. For example, a left side cover for a 2007 Foreman was over $100. A left side cover for a 2008 Foreman was $29. That's what you gotta look into. Different parts will fit your machine, and nosing around is the only way to see if a different cheaper part will fit. 2014 and 2008 Rubicon fenders etc will be the cheapest for fenders for whatever reason. But yeah, let's get it running first.
  14. The plastics can be had cheaper. Look at 2014 Rubicon fenders. Front is about $160 last time I checked. You can also buy used flares, headlights etc. 05-11 Foreman and 05-14 Rubicon are all the same except for the left tank cover (left tank cover is cut for the shifter on the Rubicon). That greatly opens up the used part market when searching for parts. But yeah, get it running first. Where are you located?
  15. I don't think that thing would run with compression that low. There's a decompressor valve on the cam on most of these hondas that releases compression when cranking. You really need to do any oil pressure test. If you read this thread of mine, oil pump chain had jumped off and starved the top end for oil. That whole engine runs off of that oil pump, and if the oil pump chain comes off, it's affects everything. Do a little reading here. Lots of info about the Hondamatics. I'm trying to learn more about them, but @Brian Bertram is the expert, and he's the one selling this oil pressure tester on ebay.
  16. Like Shade said, not easy to find, but they're out there. Where are you located? Shipping a rear fender would be expensive and I doubt these old brittle fenders would make it in one piece. @DuckOfDeath used to be pretty good at sniffing out nicer 350's, and is in Northern Arkansas. Shade in is central Arkansas.
  17. I picked one of those up a few years ago. Wife rode on it for about 1/4 mile and said "Nope". The one I had was too tall, so with her sitting it it she had to have her arms sticking out at almost shoulder level resting on the sides. It just positioned her awkwardly in the seat. That coupled with her rattling back and forth between the sides when I hit bumps and crossed ditches nixed that seat quick. I sold it and got my money back out of it. I have the Coleman/ Mad Dog gear soft bags on the back of mine now. They''re ok but overpriced and don't last too long if you leave your wheeler out at all.
  18. @AKATV is the meter guru. Don't know if he'll reprogram miles on a meter though.
  19. I know the feeling. I messed with my old 9.9 Evinrude for a while, took it to a boat motor guy to fix. I don't like the tiny 2 stroke stuff either. I'm strictly a parts swapper on that stuff.
  20. A small engine guru going to buy new junk instead of fixing the old treasures he had…..for shame!
  21. It’s a Hondamatic/ hydrostat so unfortunately no way to convert to a foot shift. You could swap in a 350 Rancher footshift engine and wiring harness.
  22. They show up under "final shaft" in the schematics. Should be # 9 in this schematic. I'd look up the part number, buy elsewhere. Partzilla's prices aren't great, but they have nice easy to search/read/share schematics. https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/atv/2006/trx350fe-a-fourtrax-rancher-4x4-es/final-shaft
  23. No it has push rods. Valves clearances might be substantially out of whack. If you have a blown headgasket you'd have milk'd oil. Can you post a video of it running? First thing I'd do is check valve clearance. You can download fhe factory service manual free in PDF format if you look at the toolbar at the top of the forum, and click on "service manuals". It has a tremendous amount of good info/troubleshooting/instructions in it.
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