F250 guy

8 hours ago, _Wilson_™ said:

that's what you call a fleet side one ton  isn't it  fish ? if you can get the fuel tank, and fill rite electric pump go for it ... that setup alone is worth $400 plus .. 

I know what it's worth, if I couldn't get it and it'd be sold before the Stemulas comes, I gotta backup plan. 

Scour the west virginia countryside for a solid old Ford or CJ7. If to rusty well plan C build from scratch. 

7 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

90 F-350 , single rear wheels ,  4wd , standard , that's a nice combo , I am not a Ford guy any more , but I would own that one 

 

That's the plan if the money and Stemulas doesn't come in a week see what I gotta do to get a loan.

Saving up for this 1990 F-350 guys asking 4 I'm thinking 3,800 cracked windshield. Not to far off from getting it if the Stemulas and extra money comes like they promise do I don't have to go into savings.

3 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

are you asking about the filter element ?

 

so the extended cab is a 5 speed 460 CID, and the long wheel base .. is a 351 with a 4 speed ? does the emended cab have a straight front axle ? 

I didn't ask on the air filter, yea the 86 sold. So going to look at the 89 tomorrow hopefully

1 hour ago, TBRider said:

I love a standard shift truck, hope thats the 460....

They both are. The 86 sold. I'll let ya know if I get the 89.

Gauge choices until I found New Vintage USA made a gauge kit for the 87-97 Ford's. 

25 minutes ago, Wheeler said:

I’m not a Ford guy, but I’d got for the power. 460 it is for me!

 

 

Me man lol. Guy said it needed a u joint and break line but I'll replace all the u Joints and brake system. 

Found two trucks. 

1st in Stuarts draft VA. 89 f250HD 351 5 speed 4x4 120,000 miles $2,000.00

2nd in Winchester VA 1986 f250 460 4 speed 4x4 118,000 miles $1,800.00 no rust just banged up farm truck. 

Personally the 89 to me looks better but that may be the paint job. Not much you can do with those instrument clusters. The 86, oh you can do a bunch. 

Real delima 460 or 351W, not towing but it'd be nice to have the extra torque. Plus I'd want something I can put gauges in. 

Hopefully going to look tomorrow

1 minute ago, retro said:

F250, grease both the inside and the outside diameters of the bushing and lightly grease the steering shaft as shadetree recommended. Then tighten the two strap bolts a little bit at a time... alternating from one bolt to the other until both are equally and evenly drawn down tight. Turn the handlebar back and forth as you alternate from one bolt to the other to minimize bunching. Doing it this way helps to insure that the bushing does not bunch up under the strap on one side while you are tightening the bolts.

That's what I'll do. 😁

1 minute ago, oh400ex said:

 

Skip the washers. I don't use them either but some who like easier steering prefer it.

Silicone grease is the big change. It won't dry and will condition the rubber if anything lol

 

The stuff you were using (if it was JD original) was polyurea which is a different beast entirely.

 

It's all we had but I'll get some silicone spray next week and grease it next weekend.  Guess what I was asking is what type is best, but any silicone grease will work? 

3 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

@F250 guy I've never had grease dry completely out ... I've seen a some types sepperate but johndeere grease should be fine, i use bel-ray myself ... and mystic ... both are great. did the steering get easy after you took the bushing back out ? i would raise the front end off the ground . and re check it with the bushing... the bottom steering shaft bearing might also be an issue. 

Ya mean turn it with the bushing out, no I didn't. Thanks for the tip on the lower bearing. I'll try the silicone grease first next weekend.

4 minutes ago, oh400ex said:

Silicone grease is all you need.

Spray it down and clean it well with silicone lube and then use silicone grease.

A few small washers to give it bit more clearance can loosen up the tightness but don't overdo it.

Yea but it was just sitting a week after I redid it. I'd rather not do washers and not have enough thread on the bolts. 

I replaced the bushing, had to re grease the n xt weekend (not enough grease), done it that next weekend (weekend before last) and it done great, then last weekend it's hard steering, this weekend I got it apart to figure out why. 

Does grease get dry if open on a shelf? I used john deere grease for our loaders. Slathered the crap out of it. Here are photos. My question is there a better grease that will stay sticky but fluid when compressed by the cap? IDC how much it is for good grease. I'm confused as to why after a week it got hard to turn. 

5 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

I had two 400s , both were 79s , one automatic 150 , one standard 250 with the 1 ton suspension , ragged them hard in the mud and street and never had a problem with either of them as far as oil pressure went , killed the trucks before the engines ---the 460 is a couple of hundred pounds more , the  351/400 MC and 460 were both low compression engines of the era , there is not much difference in the output  of both in the stock form , if you build the 400MC  , it can out perform the 460 being  less weight , the 351 C was the one to have --- just remember my 4 wheeling days , the 460 were not good mudders , to heavy and not enough of difference in power to warrant it @ 6 mpg  

I got to thinking and searching and found Hot Rod Magazine reads that proved I was wrong for thinks ng there's not much to these engines. And sleeving isn't a big deal. Ford only made the walls thin to save weight from my understanding if I read it right. 

I found a company that makes stroker kits for the 351/400. 

https://www.tmeyerinc.com/product-category/engine-family/335-cleveland/351m-400/page/3/

1 hour ago, Fishfiles said:

That was the last good ford truck. After a 79   I had another 79 , 82,90,2006 none lived up to the 79.  They were trucks back then.  I usually agree with TBRider.  But I would take a 400 modified Cleveland over a 460.   

Trucks I agree but could ya pm me on what your reason is for a modified over the 460, all the 400s had oiling issues without warning.

1 hour ago, ATC4ever said:

What are you buying for? Work? Play? Cruise? I would pick the 79 cause its the last year of that body style, & the next one kinda goes on till around 96. Lots of them around (80s style) vs the 70s, unless theres lots where you are.

Work play and Cruise, reason why I'm thinking about this one is practicality, but who knows may for me a 76 in good solid condition. Found a 76 F-250 390 FE 45,000 miles 4 speed 4x4 just now for 2,500 in Clendinin WV. I'm still looking before I do anything.

19 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

ah, okay.... i thought you said that 06 rav was in kind of rough shape... in your other thread  (New purchase possible) ... in that case .... both trucks seem equal except for the price range, and size ... hard choice ... i kind of like the older fords ... i have a budy who still has his 150 4x4 4 speed and the famous 300 inline 6 i think... it's a 78 ? no telling how many miles it has on it... i tried to purchase a few years back... nice dice..

 

The owner is getting it all fixed before she buys it. 😁 And yes I think I'll be happier with the 85. 

7 hours ago, _Wilson_™ said:

from your other post is this a truck your mom will be driving (I'd get something she would comfortable driving)  ? as you were having issues  getting your drivers license back due to the big bad virus ? 

She found her an 06 Rav4 123,000 miles. Truck is for me 

3 minutes ago, bcsman said:

Sounds like you are leaning...lol take your time to make a decision..

Haha. If memory serves me I think all the modified engines had oil pressure issues but it may be just the 400. Yes 460 no brainier, everything else I found is either to thin cheaply made or has electrical nightmares. 

Example budget 460 build 2,300.00 including machining.

53 minutes ago, bcsman said:

Prolly the F150 more energy efficient and will do most things for normal use....

Yea but the curse of 400, oil pressure issues. I'd spend a lot of $$ for a 460 the way I want it. So a stronger truck with a 460 no brainier plus I can build it down the road. 

25 minutes ago, bcsman said:

The F350 much more rugged and sturdy, so depends on what you're planning on doing with it???  Both look like they are pretty good shape...

Daily driver with hauling things. 

1 minute ago, Wheeler said:

Toss up for sure!!!

You said it bud. If you guys are interested I'll be sure to update, I'm going to look this weekend. 

Choice number 2. 

1985 F-350. 68,000 miles. Dana 60 axles front and rear, C6 (to be switched eventually) 4wd, new paint banged up sure, 460 BBF stock engine, may switch out that distributor and radiator. New tires. $ 3,000.00 

This is number one. 1979 F-150 short bed 82,000 miles 400, automatic, 4wd $1,300.

Just now, _Wilson_™ said:

a 300 clamps all the way down 24 foot lbs ...but you do have to line the bushing up.. right ....no deforming on mine.

Had it and I went back out the next morning, and tight. I got a pretty good idea of what happened. When I put the new one in I greased the rear cap. I'll get it off when I'm back up there and get all that grease out.