F250 guy

I'm getting my parts list together to redo the front brakes, and was wondering 1 of 2 things.

1. The castle nut for the brake drum, how tight, or just tighten it up?

2. Is there a thickness that the braking surface on the inside of the drum has to be, need to know before I order so I don't get cylinders and shoes and oh crap I forgot a drum. 

Thanks to anybody who can help me out. 

3 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

It'll have a ECU/ CDI up under the front fender. 

I had an 06 I rebuilt a few weeks ago that had a bad ECU. Fan wouldn't come on.  That said, the factory service manual tells you to ground the oil temp wire and if the fan comes on, the control unit is good.

 

On that 06 if I grounded the temp wire, the fan would barely move, then nothing.  Swapped in a different CDI and it worked fine after that.

 

 

Didn't know that but then against n there's hardly any computer controlled ATVs where I live. I was on the right track well maybe halfway lol.

16 minutes ago, [email protected] said:

Sorry guys! i have been on other projects lately. interesting theory on the oil not making it to the top end. the kids rode it around a little this weekend with no issues. it was unseasonably cool this weekend and they didn't ride it hard or very long. no issues at all other than it wanted to only run on full/half choke for longer than usual. 

 

it is carbed and air cooled. 

is the fan control unit the same as the cdi?

so should i drain the oil and check the filter placement first you think?

the filter was installed by the shop in the winter when it was in for its service. i would hope they didn't put it in backwards...

 

You may be on to something, the 300s have CDI issues, with them you can tap on them with a screwdriver handle or small wrench lightly, if it starts CDI is bad, again idk about an 09 foreman but I know 300s you can do that. I think the fan control unit would be the alarm unit I may be wrong.

As for the half choke question, may have been a little cold out. Or if you store it with no stabilizer or don't drain your float bowl Ethanol may have gummed up your choke circuit. 

3 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

 

09 Foreman was still carb'd and air cooled.  05-11 Foremans were the last of the simple Hondas.

Wasn't sure cause they introduced FI on alot of models that I know of. Live n learn huh lol.

1 hour ago, jeepwm69 said:

Doesn't look like he's been back.

 

The fact that he grounded the oil temp wire and the fan came on, then he replaced that sensor with a new one and the fan still didn't come on, but the engine apparently overheated sounds to me like oil isn't getting to the top end. 

 

Either the oil pump went south or the oil filter was in backwards, limiting oil flow to the head, so that the oil in the bottom end where the sensor is wasn't necessarily hot, but the top end would be screaming hot from no oil.

 

That's my hypothesis.

Very good theory I didn't wanna say it and be wrong, but my comment if ya read it, I come from an automotive background, so Mass airflow sensors or fuel pumps or injectors can cause the issue, but mostly fuel pumps.

Grandpas.

Update. Here are some temperature shots mine and grandpas with factory oil.

Disclaimer: the point is to testify that my temps are much lower than before, I didn't have my phone yesterday or I would've took photos before my oil change, they were higher then you see here by 30*. The reason grandpas is there is b cause I was curious what factory everything looked like. Mine runs warmer naturally "Wich I'm fine with me" I'd rather be a tad warm then barley Luke warm like grandpas".

Mine.

Is it FI, reason I ask is cause if it is EFI you may want to try and clean all the sensors for the air intake and fuel side if it has them, on our older FI cars, the Mass airflow sensors were 93% of the cause. Again may be wrong, but you didn't say if yours was FI or Carbed.  

Or like I said if FI test the fuel pump to see if it holds pressure when hot.

^^^ I may be wrong but that's the only thing that came to my mind. If it's misinformation I apologise. 

I got it done and man the Amsoil does make a difference. I had no idea what I was missing. Lower temps and alot smoother, quieter too. 

On 4/26/2020 at 2:17 PM, Fishfiles said:

Shade and Goober are the 350 D gurus.  How’s is your plug burning.  

I'm with @Fishfiles but probably from what u said I'm thinking carbon build up, before tearing anything down drain the fuel and get a good fuel system cleaner mix it heavy with a fresh supply of fuel and run er hard for an hour or two if you live on acrage. Then if it don't run better rebuild the carb. I think Amazon has bore scopes that'll link up to your phone on WiFi if I'm not mistaken. You could use it to look in your cylinder to see if there's build up.

I'm sure it'll turn out good. 

@Fishfiles the thought is what counts though, we won't be going till later sometime I remembered we have to do the orchard limbs. My moms still remodelig a floor so later today it is.

While on the subject do those manual oil extractors work, or since ATVs share engine and transmission it wouldn't drain all the oil out and a guy would still have to loosen the drain plug? I gotta change oil on grannies mowers and was curious. I'd like to get one for everything but a car, just wanted to ask for anybody's experience with them in ATVs. 

I'll post pictures of the scenery.

3 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

Did you just do a rebuild on your engine ?  What's up with the fan to cool it down ?  

No I haven't, the fan thing was to make sure that it won't get to hot, but at the temp it's going to be I should b fine to let it warm up 10-15 minutes, see I try to do anything I can to prevent possible overheating if I'm ideling for say over 15 minutes. I was being cautious, but at 25-30* I should b ok. 😁

Yea, were in between two Mountain banks up there and I thought about running it at idle to warm it up but I don't have a fan to blow over the cylinder to prevent overheating. So I guess I'll have to ruin my wash job. Ugh. 40* here in Barboursville WV where I am now, it's naturally 20* colder there where I'm going. So I'm not gonna enjoy this lol

By warm you don't mean operating temp just warm, ok I was thinking up to normal riding temp. Dunce is me

I was curious what you guys do when it's cold out, drain n fill or warm the oil up, reason I'm asking is cause it's going to be like 40 something and I don't wanna ruin my wash job I did the other day. I have the oil I'll be using, but just wanted to ask cause I was under the impression that long as the craps in suspension, it wouldn't matter. 

Going back up today to finish some work for granny, going to build a fire in that cinder block garage to.  Also an oil change on my moms Suzuki XL7 if ya wanna see that. 

Yesterday 70*F I went to the farm and helped out granny, weed eated a bit, mowed some, and rode around. For sitting almost 3 months mine fired 2nd crank as always, but I'm really surprised the other 300 Wich is grandpas old one started like mine did, for (87) pump gas unstabilized for at least a year n a half. ( My uncle pretty much takes care of it so don't shoot me lol).

I'd look over your carb and tank again, something still isn't quite right, did ya get it all cleaned? Probably unrelated but I run Sunoco Non Ethanol Fuel it's the only stuff I run, if you can find it in your area I highly encourage you to get it.

2 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

I have fumoto valves on all my street driven cars.  Quality brass valves.  Been using them for 15 years.  Have never had an issue. 

 

https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=search-fumoto&msclkid=7ede0735b97c175dcb1959876eb6da66

Do rocks n sticks jam the lever open? Was going to get one for my moms 04 Suzuki XL7 but thought nah the plugs at the back I'll get the Valvomax. 

12 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

I normally run Rotella in my wheelers. I’ve always been a “buy decent, cheap oil and change frequently”

 

The only 4T I have was $3/quart on closeout at Walmart. 

 

The oil in the link above will go in the wife’s Daily driver.

 

I know Amsoil makes an excellent product, I just can’t bring myself to spend that on oil.

This is a nifty little invention , I watch Scotty Kilmers channel, and I'm getting this oil change kit from Valvomax, really neat. 

11 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

I normally run Rotella in my wheelers. I’ve always been a “buy decent, cheap oil and change frequently”

 

The only 4T I have was $3/quart on closeout at Walmart. 

 

The oil in the link above will go in the wife’s Daily driver.

 

I know Amsoil makes an excellent product, I just can’t bring myself to spend that on oil.

If it helps, even though the cost would be high cost, you can do analysis on your oil and the analyzer will send a report back saying it's good or you got dirt in the oil, wear metals ect. The signature series and their premium filter are good for 1 year or 25k me I'd switch the filter out. But contact Amsoil on the distance between analysis. 

I was going to put a video link but can't find it, I had it n lost it. 

Update: had the mower for almost a month, super pleased, just done the first oil change yesterday, I been using it slot since I got it, I use Amsoil 10W-30 Small Engine Oil. Runs quieter, less temps, love it.

Me and Indy have been lazy the past few months.

On 4/27/2020 at 4:56 PM, jeepwm69 said:

Oil on clearance at Tractor Supply.  Pull it up, check availability around you.   Shows up at $29 but when you add to cart the price drops to $14.99

 

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/mobil-1-truck-suv-full-synthetic-motor-oil-0w-20-5-quart-124572

 

I just ordered 2 jugs, 5 quarts each, for $15 + tax.  Rebate on each is $12 so that’s about $9 for two 5 quart jugs (4.50 for 5 quarts, or less than a buck a quart) of full syn

 

https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/promotions/motor-oil-rebate-program-2020

 

I did customer curbside pickup. 

Not to say you made a bad purchase, but I recently found out through a trusted source (friend) I have that works for Mobil, that what we see on say Mobil 1 4T Racing for example isn't full synthetic, sure it says it but it's a group 3 oil labeled as full synthetic to get ya to buy it, when in reality it's maybe 20% of the base stock is synthetic. 

That's why  switching to Amsoil 4 Stroke 0W-40 for my 300. Again not raining on your parade lol, but I looked to and Mobil doesn't have tests published and all the info, like Amsoil does on their site. 

I hate when a company lies, unless it says 100% synthetic it's not a true synthetic. 

38 minutes ago, Outnback said:

Is the handle adjustable? Looks a little high for my wife!  😄   

Sure is adjustable 😄

Hey guys because of the virus haven't been up to the farm in at least 2 months, so to occupy my time until we can go, I got a new toy. I love it, Honda HRX217HYA with versamow hydrostatic transmission, blade stop, it's nice and the new GCV200 engine. 

Lots more HP than my old 160, Versamow is awesome. Reason for the self propelled mower is my backyard.