SlammedRanger

Heck yeah man! Im always glad to help out!

Yeah it probably took a few minutes to un foul the plug lol! Glad you got her revving out man! The popping through the carb is from a lean condition. Could be that gasket. Fingers are crossed man! Try heating the bolt in that clamp up if you have a propane torch.

Choke down. Up is ON down is OFF. Should swing towards the back. I mean when you have the thumb throttle wide open it shouldnt move any further. The throttle arm that you put the cable on should be hitting a stop not allowing you to go any further. That could be it. If the choke is on it would do that 100%!

I suggest waiting until you get your exhaust gasket fixed. As that can cause all kinds of weird problems. Its essentially running with no restriction from the muffler so kinda like open header is on a race car. This engine needs that back pressure to run properly. So before we go chasing something that isnt there i would wait until that gasket is in. But to me im betting its because it has the airbox open and now bone stock jetting. Sounds lean to me. We also want to make sure you are getting the full throw of the throttle. Hold it wide open when the engine is off and use your other hand and push the throttle arm. It should be hitting a stop so wont go any further. If it does you need to adjust the cable more up at the thumb throttle housing.

Hmmm. You got plenty of slack on the cable now for sure. My bet is your not getting the barrel spun around enough to get the cable through the slot. That part can be alittle tough. Sometimes you can get the barrel started in the hole and use your thumb and kinda twist on it. The cable needs to turn out almost 90° to slot into the gap. I usually get it started about half way in and then use my other thumb to twist the thottle arm around to almost wide open throttle and it helps you get the cable at the angle you need.

Welcome aboard!

Yep remove it from the throttle housing. It will give you more cable length to work with. Should make it alot easier down at the bottom. Cable routing looks spot on though! And its threaded in good!

Are you talking about threading it on? Or getting the barrel into the hole on the throttle arm? The best way to get the barrel in is hold the throttle in wide open position and use a small pair of needle nose. It should drop right in. But in all honesty you may be better off to remove it up top to give you more length on the cable. Hate to burst your bubble but it wont be rideable until you get the right throttle housing. Without the cable being held in place it will move all over the place and not work at all.

Honestly with this part i would go cheap and fast too lol. The carb is one thing. But i dont have an oem throttle housing and its just fine. If it says it fits you just gotta take the word for it. But looking at it the threaded part looks like the right size.

No problem bud! Yeah i was alittle worried about that. It may require a factory throttle housing to work. That one is definetly not factory. Honestly almost looks like its off a chinese quad........

This picture if you zoom in gives you a good idea how the throttle cable is routed also.

I searched through my build pictures and found this. The loop where you run your throttle cable is circled.

Now for the bad news. Not really just has to be removed. The carb has to come off the engine to be threaded onto the other end of the throttle cable. The side with the 90° bend has threads and nut on it. You will need to spin the carb onto those threads in the hole on top of the carb body. Usually what i do is take the side cover off(black plastic 2 phillips screws). From there you can see how far you thread on. You want the throttle cable 90° piece sticking through it about 1 full thread worth. This kinda sucks. You gotta spin the carb around and around usually like 5 or 6 times.

Ok the first hose(circled in red) that is your upper half carb vent. It needs to stay open. The best way to do this is to route it like i drew in blue. That little sleeve is big enough to fit both in there and it wraps around through it and dangles free from there. The second one is your carb bowl drain tube. That just routes down in between your swing arm and frame. Should come out under the quad and just end down there. That is for if you have to drain the fuel from the carb it can safely run out the bottom and not on anything hot where it could potentially catch fire.

Alrighty. Now were talking. We got pictures lol. Last picture. That isnt correct. Its close though. So what you are gunna want to do is screw that threaded piece into the housing. Take the other end and route it in front of the handle bars and down near where the steering stem meets the frame. There will be a small little loop of metal to run it through. It will then go under the gas tank and into the top of the carb. I am gunna take your other pictures and draw on them so i will post back with those.

Yes it plugs into the side of the intake tube. The hole with the clamp on it. It is essebtially a catch can. One end is the crank case vent tube goes into the engine case and vents crank case pressure into the expansion chamber. The other end puts those gasses back into your intake for the motor to ingest and re-burn.

Dang that was fast! Sweet! So go ahead and remove the plastics and gas tank for starters. If you need help with that let me know. Should just need a 10mm socket and a flat tip screw driver to get at the little plastic clips.

I normally use a pick from my pick set that has the tip bent. Either the far right one or the second from the left works best. This kit is 1.99 at harbor freight.

Stuck float, dirty needle valve, or bowl drain screw is loose. Give the carb a good tap with a screw driver handle and see if it stops. If it does its a sticking float. Either way if its getting really hot i would suggest riding it alot less until the new carb comes in. You risk burning it up running it lean like im sure it is from the sounds of it.

That symptom sounds like its running lean. Do you feel it getting real hot? Cooking your leg? Where is the gas leaking from? There is a bowl gasket that could leak. Or if its coming out the tubes under it that could be a sticking float. Could be the fuel line leaking. Which should be solved with that new line.

No problem at all! This is why we all helped build this place. To keep people riding and enjoying there atvs. Let me know when you get all those parts and i will break down the process for you. We will get that honda running like new again. I see you ordered the header gaskets. I would suggest holding on to those and try the muffler to header gasket first. Sometimes those header flange bolts can snap. And if those gaskets arent leaking i wouldnt mess with them. See if changing the one between header and muffler solves the popping first. That one is very easy to change.

No. Im sure i can talk you through the process. Getting the throttle cable adjusted will be the toughest part. Is this 400ex all stock? I saw the stock pipe. Looks like only mod is airbox lid removed.

And this https://www.ebay.com/itm/133867235172?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=nAanJkrfSQu&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=LLzzyiioSHC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=SMS

You will need this aswell https://www.ebay.com/itm/231951398280?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=PE9UD81mRbm&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=LLzzyiioSHC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=SMS

Sure can! https://www.ebay.com/itm/284811885210?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=PltFHBYUSQC&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=LLzzyiioSHC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=SMS I tried making a link. Think i failed. But here is a screen shot lol.