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Orvis25

TRX300FW 1994 Front Diff component compatibility question.

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Posted (edited)

Quick question that i cant seem to get an awnser on.

Do the front difs from the trx300 line have interchangeable parts all the way through 88-2000, or are there specific years that only work with others?

I am trying to do a simple diff mod to "tighten" the engagement of the front diff (so it slips less and diverts power properly more often) by installing an extra "DIFFERENTIAL CLUTCH CONED" washer to each side.

I found a good deal on the part number 42535-HA7-671 version, but partzilla says it only works in the 88 year trx300fw front diff.

Can I buy them and still use them in the 1994 model, even though the part number for it (for that year) is actually 42535-HC5-000?

I know sometimes honda changes the parts numbers even though they are identical parts.

Thanks.

Edited by Orvis25

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Welcome aboard.

 

If anyone can directly answer your question, it will likely be @Fishfiles as he has several modded 300's, and I'm pretty sure he's done the washer trick to at least one of them.

 

Using deductive reasoning, however, ALL of the other parts in the schematic interchange from 88-00, if you look at the assembly part #14 in the schematic.  The only parts that specify 88 only are the complete assembly (14), and the coned washer you're looking at.

 

If all of the other parts are the same, then while that coned clutch washer you're looking at might be slightly different in the 90-00 models, they will be interchangeable.  They'd have to be in order to work with all the other parts, given that all the other parts are the same for all years.

 

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/atv/1988/trx300fw-a-fourtrax/front-final-gear

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Posted (edited)
18 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

Welcome aboard.

 

If anyone can directly answer your question, it will likely be @Fishfiles as he has several modded 300's, and I'm pretty sure he's done the washer trick to at least one of them.

 

Using deductive reasoning, however, ALL of the other parts in the schematic interchange from 88-00, if you look at the assembly part #14 in the schematic.  The only parts that specify 88 only are the complete assembly (14), and the coned washer you're looking at.

 

If all of the other parts are the same, then while that coned clutch washer you're looking at might be slightly different in the 90-00 models, they will be interchangeable.  They'd have to be in order to work with all the other parts, given that all the other parts are the same for all years.

 

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/atv/1988/trx300fw-a-fourtrax/front-final-gear

That's what I thought myself, but wanted at least one other person to confirm it's either yes, or "most likely". 

 

Ordered me 2 oem new 88 year ones from Ebay for $17 shipped. 

 

Cheers. 

 

Ps @Fishfiles : if you can provide clarification on the front diff comparability of different years for archiving sake, that'd be cool. 

 

Edit: also @Fishfiles if I do the washer mod,  am I clear to use regular manual "reccomended" gearbox oil, or do I need to mix in additional anti-slip additives? (There is some debate on this) 

Edited by Orvis25

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I believe they are all the same from 88-2000. 
 

however I’ve never messed the washers, rather lockers…

 

welcome  back!

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Just now, Wheeler said:

I believe they are all the same from 88-2000. 
 

however I’ve never messed the washers, rather lockers…

 

welcome  back!

Thanks, 

Yes I didn't want to "lock" the front diff, just get into engage 4x4 more often. Sometimes it only does 3x4 even when its stuck or under a traction situation. 

 

I'd lock it, but I cant get ahold of a 424 kit, mor would I want to dump that much cash in ($400 424 kit + $500 torq front diff locker)

 

$17 in cone washers hopefully will "help" a bit. 

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56 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

here yah go, also check out this thread credit goes to @Fishfiles

 

The YT video is actually the reference I had for wanting to do this mod. 

ps: Is @Fishfiles actually "The honda outlay" on ? youtube, or just coincidence you posted both as a reply?

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@Orvis25 ----    Looks to me that in 88 there were two numbers listed in the breakdown , the first number shows to only fit the 88 300 and the 350D and A --------   the second number superceeds the first number and is  42535-HC5-000 , it  fits all the 300s 88-2000  , the 400s and the 450s , so either number would work for you , same part different number 

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2 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

@Orvis25 ----    Looks to me that in 88 there were two numbers listed in the breakdown , the first number shows to only fit the 88 300 and the 350D and A --------   the second number superceeds the first number and is  42535-HC5-000 , it  fits all the 300s 88-2000  , the 400s and the 450s , so either number would work for you , same part different number 

"Same part different number: 
Appreciate it, That's what i figured, iv had this happen before. I just hate buying parts with different model numbers and trying to guess/hope it works as the other one that looks identical. 

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2 hours ago, Orvis25 said:

 

Ps @Fishfiles : if you can provide clarification on the front diff comparability of different years for archiving sake, that'd be cool. 

 

Edit: also @Fishfiles if I do the washer mod,  am I clear to use regular manual "reccomended" gearbox oil, or do I need to mix in additional anti-slip additives? (There is some debate on this) 

I ride in a lot of water so , I don't run oil in my diffs or transfer cases , I fill it with  Lucas Hub Oil and then fill the diff with marine grade grease from a grease gun thru a grease fitting tapped into the fill plug till it comes out of the vent tube nipple , then  every other ride I will give it a few shots of grease till resistance is felt on the gun --------- 

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Posted (edited)
6 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

I ride in a lot of water so , I don't run oil in my diffs or transfer cases , I fill it with  Lucas Hub Oil and then fill the diff with marine grade grease from a grease gun thru a grease fitting tapped into the fill plug till it comes out of the vent tube nipple , then  every other ride I will give it a few shots of grease till resistance is felt on the gun --------- 

I have heard that running geese is higher maintenance and can cause issues (like premature wear) for "normal" users (like trail riding and normal utility use), that and it requires higher (and longer if you want to totally replace) maintenance, so I never considered it. 


Just on you gut, would you recommend using anti-slip additives right off the batt, or just put the washers in, use recommended oil, and run it "as is" (what I'm thinking)?

 

Ps: never got clarification, did you run this washer mod? How did it work out for you if so? 

Edited by Orvis25

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ps: Is @Fishfiles actually "The honda outlay" on ? youtube, or just coincidence you posted both as a reply?

 

 

just a reply, but, be sure to check the thread out, I'm not a mudder, (he's been trying to convert a few of us here, lol) but i do like the mod, and I've been in spots (hauling wood) where a tighter clutch pack would be handy.

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1 minute ago, Orvis25 said:

I have heard that running geese is higher maintenance and can cause issues (like premature wear) for "normal" users (like trail riding and normal utility use), that and it requires higher (and longer if you want to totally replace) maintenance, so I never considered it. 
Just on you gut, would you recommend using anti-slip additives right off the batt, or just put the washers in, use recommended oil, and run it "as is" (what I'm thinking)?

 

I really don't know if adding additives will help you or not , guess it can't hurt , would think the thicker the oil the less it is going to slip --- in fact I have thought me using grease makes it grab even harder than just oil ------ when I was using oil I was always using Lucas Hub Oil ( used in the front wheel bearings of big tucks ) , which is very thick , like a 180W +  and it has that clinging slim feel to it 

 

I read a lot of those  people that say grease is no good , sounds like your on the 300 club or 300 FourTrax Fans reading that , but remember those people more than likely have never tried it , so what do they know , LOL !!!  I don't ride high speed down trails , so I don't fall into their arguement ---I can say that I have never lost a front end , transfer case or rear end since I started using grease quite a few years ago and bearings last just about forever for me now 

 

I have heard of people sticking flat washers they get from tractor Supply instead of cone washers in the front diff to make it grab more , personally don't like that idea , but never heard anyone say anything bad happened from doing it --- I took a chance on the cone washers as no one told me about them , it has been working out well , it is not 100% a locker , but it does grab a lot better , in certain situations when stuck , I have seen where one wheel will go dead and I did break a couple of cv-shafts on the left side in the last year on my 92 , don't know if the extra grab had anything to do with it , but I do ride it hard 

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5 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

 

 

 

just a reply, but, be sure to check the thread out, I'm not a mudder, (he's been trying to convert a few of us here, lol) but i do like the mod, and I've been in spots (hauling wood) where a tighter clutch pack would be handy.

quote " 

ps: Is @Fishfiles actually "The honda outlay" on ? youtube, or just coincidence you posted both as a reply?

 

I am still trying to figure out what that means ^^^^ 

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2 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

quote " 

ps: Is @Fishfiles actually "The honda outlay" on ? youtube, or just coincidence you posted both as a reply?

 

I am still trying to figure out what that means ^^^^ 

I was just asking are you the youtuber "TheHondaOutlay", or different person (since he linked it with that forum post from you). 

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Just now, Orvis25 said:

I was just asking are you the youtuber "TheHondaOutlay", or different person (since he linked it with that forum post from you). 

No , that is not me , i wish , my 300 is no where near as nice as his

 

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5 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

quote " 

ps: Is @Fishfiles actually "The honda outlay" on ? youtube, or just coincidence you posted both as a reply?

 

I am still trying to figure out what that means ^^^^ 

 

i kind of was too..... no that's not fish, but he could pull that off blind folded, it's a defrent guy, just a video i happened up on, i think 1st posted in the old forums ? but I'm sure I'm not the 1st to post it. 

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Posted (edited)
19 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

 

I really don't know if adding additives will help you or not , guess it can't hurt , would think the thicker the oil the less it is going to slip --- in fact I have thought me using grease makes it grab even harder than just oil ------ when I was using oil I was always using Lucas Hub Oil ( used in the front wheel bearings of big tucks ) , which is very thick , like a 180W +  and it has that clinging slim feel to it 

 

I read a lot of those  people that say grease is no good , sounds like your on the 300 club or 300 FourTrax Fans reading that , but remember those people more than likely have never tried it , so what do they know , LOL !!!  I don't ride high speed down trails , so I don't fall into their arguement ---I can say that I have never lost a front end , transfer case or rear end since I started using grease quite a few years ago and bearings last just about forever for me now 

 

I have heard of people sticking flat washers they get from tractor Supply instead of cone washers in the front diff to make it grab more , personally don't like that idea , but never heard anyone say anything bad happened from doing it --- I took a chance on the cone washers as no one told me about them , it has been working out well , it is not 100% a locker , but it does grab a lot better , in certain situations when stuck , I have seen where one wheel will go dead and I did break a couple of cv-shafts on the left side in the last year on my 92 , don't know if the extra grab had anything to do with it , but I do ride it hard 

Just to clarify, when you say "one wheele will go dead" and "broke cv-shafts on the left side"
Do you think that the mudding was primarily the issue? 
I don't see how getting the differential to engage more via the cone washer would would cause it to break CV-shafts in anyway they would not have already without them. I figure it would just allow it to operate more frequently under its normal 4x4 tolerances. 
 
In terms of you greasing all 3, whats the "life span" on the greese in the case? 
Do you ever "drain" the case per say and do a total replacement, or just keep injecting new stuff every so often until it ! out the breather hose? 

Edited by Orvis25
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1 minute ago, Orvis25 said:

Just to clarify, when you say "one wheele will go dead" and "broke cv-shafts on the left side"
Do you think that the mudding was primarily the issue? 
I don't see how getting the differential to engage more would would cause it to break CV-shafts. I figure it would just allow it to operate more frequently under its normal 4x4 tolerances. 
 
In terms of you greasing all 3, whats the "life span" on the grese in the case? 
Do you ever "drain" the case per say and do a total replacement, or just keep injecting new stuff every so often until it ! out the breather hose? 

When I say go dead , I meant quit pulling at a point , the other 3 are still spinning , but one will quit spinning  because of the angle of how it was stuck and the amount of pressure on that  wheel  , like the limited slip kicked in and wouldn't let it lock up  --- the broken cv-shafts happen at different times , one time  I think was from getting pulled home , I ran over the rope  and the rope got wrapped around the shaft , didn't know it and got pulled the rest of the way 

 

I have never changed the grease , it still looks good , doesn't look like any water is getting in , just keep adding , ony way to change the grease would be to disassemble it 

 

Yes I think mudding puts a lot of extra wear on them , maybe with the diff grabbing harder and you hit a root or stump when you are spinning it hard , it would be more likely to break something 

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Posted (edited)
24 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

When I say go dead , I meant quit pulling at a point , the other 3 are still spinning , but one will quit spinning  because of the angle of how it was stuck and the amount of pressure on that  wheel  , like the limited slip kicked in and wouldn't let it lock up  --- the broken cv-shafts happen at different times , one time  I think was from getting pulled home , I ran over the rope  and the rope got wrapped around the shaft , didn't know it and got pulled the rest of the way 

 

I have never changed the grease , it still looks good , doesn't look like any water is getting in , just keep adding , ony way to change the grease would be to disassemble it 

 

Yes I think mudding puts a lot of extra wear on them , maybe with the diff grabbing harder and you hit a root or stump when you are spinning it hard , it would be more likely to break something 

OOC, do you recommend "normal" non-mudding people to do grease mod, or just stick with oil.

I feel like there is a reason why Honda (and any other OEM differential in any vehicle iv ever seen) does not do 100% greased diffs.
The only thing I could think of is that (and i assume your running a gear reduction) since your tires run at lower RPM's (with more torque) the grease does not "foam up" or something, but under normal riding conditions at higher speeds for extended periods of time, it might like "whip" the grease into a foam and cause issues? 
IDK....

Side question, why do you not seal off the breather hose permanently (like with epoxy or something) and just pump greases in until it bleeds out the seals at the CV join connection point? 

Edited by Orvis25

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No , I wouldn't run grease if I didn't go into the water ----- no the grease  doesn't get foamy on me , it is marine grease  -----   I am running 54% reduction on my 300s and the blue 92 has Outlaw 27s 12 wide rear and 10 wide front ( I have had 29.5s on it before , it can handle them , but more fun to ride with 27s ) ,  the 27s  bite pretty good and I do run it hard , very hard  ---   I don't take the vent line off when pumping extra grease in , I can fell the difference in the lever when it is full and starts to come out the vent nipple , so I stop at that point , there is a little grease in the tube , the vent tubes  do still run up with the snorkel , but really don't vent any more other than allowing the grease a place to expand , I have never had grease come out the ends of my tubes before ,  but have seen other's atvs where they pumped it so much that grease ouzes out the tubes and gets all over the place and makes a mess ---I don't ever see it pump out the seals when I fill them , but like I say , when the pressure starts to build ,  I stop 

 

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I run gear oil in my diffs, but I don't quite submarine them to the point Fish does.

 

That said, I do drill the axle housings out next to the hubs, thread, and add grease zerks, and then I pump the axle housing full of grease.  I figured that would help keep water out for when I do have too many beers and decide my ATV is invincible.

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