Horsefly 7 Posted December 8, 2021 I've been pulling my '97 Foreman 400 apart trying to figure out why it doesn't run. Have come up with a short list of essential parts that need to be replaced with new - fuel strainer screen, air filter element, rear brake cable, 30 amp main fuse, etc. Heck, a bunch of new plastic retaining connector clips would probably make my life a lot easier in the future too. Any suggestions on reputable on-line parts suppliers? OEM vs aftermarket? Thanks in advance for any suggestions. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fishfiles 17,154 Posted December 8, 2021 Rocky Mountain ATV for OEM parts For it to run you need fuel , compression and spark , do you have those three things Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Scotticus 776 Posted December 8, 2021 (edited) https://www.motosport.com/ is a reputable parts source that has OEM and aftermarket parts. They offer free two day shipping with orders over $79. Sometimes like now they offer free shipping at $49 order Edited December 8, 2021 by Scotticus 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeepwm69 6,618 Posted December 9, 2021 I normally use RMATV but ordered an ECU from motosport this week as it was about $40 cheaper. That said, a lot of other parts I priced were cheaper at RM, so check around, get a cart total and go with whoever is cheaper Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeepwm69 6,618 Posted December 9, 2021 I have an order coming from adept Powersports this week too as they had a choke lever for an 85 250 while everyone else showed it as discontinued, and their combo switch for a 300 was a hair cheaper than other places Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bcsman 1,311 Posted December 9, 2021 Then there is Partzilla which many here have used. But I believe to get free shipping RMATV has a lower $$$ value than Partzilla. But as jeep said it's best to do a parts check on different sites, just remember as I found out a few years ago, one site may have the lower price on a particular part but higher on others. Don't forget to factor in shipping costs and also important, do they have your part(s) in stock..... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horsefly 7 Posted December 10, 2021 Thanks to everyone for the good advice. I have been shopping, checking out various sites and have learned a lot in the last 24 hours. I'll start by saying that while patience may be a virtue, it's not one of mine. Once I dive into a project I'm not big on unnecessary delays. In stock definitely takes priority over a minor difference in price and sometimes, perfect is the enemy of good enough. I was pretty impressed with the on-line tech support chat guy at RMATV who was kind enough to tell me that I probably didn't need the $34 full main fuse box and should try the 94 cents package of replacement fuses first if the rest of the main fuse box looked OK. When I asked him why it was sold in quantities of 2 he said that the second one was a spare that gets hidden inside the top of the rubber housing for the fuse. ! if I didn't go back and look again and there was a spare tucked away inside of my housing case. DUH... replaced the blown fuse with the spare and now I have a really cool night light in my shop that still doesn't run... Also talked to my son who is a Harley guy and told him about the mouse nest inside the air cleaner box and explained how the foam air cleaner element had been shredded and mixed with fiberglass insulation to make a toasty nest. I asked him if it was OK to try to start it without the air cleaner element and he told me to clean everything out and to cut 4 inches off of the top of an old sock to make a tube to slip over the main air cleaner housing to create some back pressure. Ever wonder what mysteriously happened to the top of one of your socks during that ride to Sturgis? Anyway, I'm making progress. Have power to my ignition switch and the Neutral light comes on when it's switched on. Reverse light and oil pressure are a no-go but they can probably wait for another day. Also have headlights and tail lights. Have spark at the new spark plug and seem to have compression when I pull the manual start rope. Fresh fuel seems to be flowing out of the tank to the carb although I only put about 1/2 a gallon in the tank which may not be enough even though I tried setting the fuel knob to RES. The starter motor turns when I push the button and it sounds like it's trying hard but won't catch and start. I'm wondering about a shot of starting fluid in the air intake next. Any thoughts? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fishfiles 17,154 Posted December 10, 2021 Yes on the starting fluid ---------- Partzilla does have the best parts breakdown and interchange charts , easier to navigate , but in the last couple of years they went up on prices a lot , their shipping is less than to be desired and they lie , LOL So I go to Partzilla and lookup my part , copy and paste the part number to a search and that usually gets me to the best price quick Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeepwm69 6,618 Posted December 10, 2021 18 hours ago, Horsefly said: Thanks to everyone for the good advice. I have been shopping, checking out various sites and have learned a lot in the last 24 hours. I'll start by saying that while patience may be a virtue, it's not one of mine. Once I dive into a project I'm not big on unnecessary delays. In stock definitely takes priority over a minor difference in price and sometimes, perfect is the enemy of good enough. I was pretty impressed with the on-line tech support chat guy at RMATV who was kind enough to tell me that I probably didn't need the $34 full main fuse box and should try the 94 cents package of replacement fuses first if the rest of the main fuse box looked OK. When I asked him why it was sold in quantities of 2 he said that the second one was a spare that gets hidden inside the top of the rubber housing for the fuse. ! if I didn't go back and look again and there was a spare tucked away inside of my housing case. DUH... replaced the blown fuse with the spare and now I have a really cool night light in my shop that still doesn't run... Also talked to my son who is a Harley guy and told him about the mouse nest inside the air cleaner box and explained how the foam air cleaner element had been shredded and mixed with fiberglass insulation to make a toasty nest. I asked him if it was OK to try to start it without the air cleaner element and he told me to clean everything out and to cut 4 inches off of the top of an old sock to make a tube to slip over the main air cleaner housing to create some back pressure. Ever wonder what mysteriously happened to the top of one of your socks during that ride to Sturgis? Anyway, I'm making progress. Have power to my ignition switch and the Neutral light comes on when it's switched on. Reverse light and oil pressure are a no-go but they can probably wait for another day. Also have headlights and tail lights. Have spark at the new spark plug and seem to have compression when I pull the manual start rope. Fresh fuel seems to be flowing out of the tank to the carb although I only put about 1/2 a gallon in the tank which may not be enough even though I tried setting the fuel knob to RES. The starter motor turns when I push the button and it sounds like it's trying hard but won't catch and start. I'm wondering about a shot of starting fluid in the air intake next. Any thoughts? You have a good battery on it? If the starter motor is turning the engine over well, then by all means see if it will fire with a shot of starter fluid. If it does, but won't run without the shot of starter fluid then you know you have a fuel problem. If it doesn't fire with starter fluid you have other work to do. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites