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triharder

88 TRX350D and I'm in love

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New to me 1988 TRX350D.  

Finally found the utlity quad i was after.  I own a shorter driveway (110 feet) and wanted a workhorse to plow it and also tug a yard trailer around my larger (kidding) 1.5 acre property

This popped and up and jumped.  It needs nothing and was good to go (actually needed a new header as the header was split after a failed repair weld).

 

A friend bought and got her running after 15 years of sitting in another friends yard.  One it was running with new tires I bought i up.

 

Trying to mount a winch and also restoring some odds and ends.  

 

Glad to be here

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Welcome aboard.  Lots of "tank" fans here.  That's what we call the 86-93 350 Fourtrax/Foreman around here.

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Welcome to ATVHonda >> Trl' 

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welcome to our forums. to mount a winch, you need a steel plate, 3/16 thick, cut to size to fit right in front of the fan, wide enough to lay on top of the tube frame, and long enough to reach from the very front, all the way back to where it stops right in front of the fan, DO NOT MOUNT IT ANYWHERE ELSE !!. I welded my plate to my '89 trx350D frame, then i had to cut out the inner splash guards on front left side to be able to work the winch knob. i installed a warn pro vantage 2500s, kfi roller fair lead, my winch is rope, i'll never use cable again.

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Posted (edited)

I'm working out the mount situation currently.  (installed in front of the location you did). 

my 3/16 plate isn't what wanted and i bought a 1/4, but i need to catch the front bolt holes for the rack with my mount when i'm done. 

(Its not lost on me this 4-wheeler weighs what 500 lb-600 lbs.  I bought the badlands 3500 (as i figure oversize motor tugging a low weight is better than the harbor freight 2500 for the same duty).

guard is removed for painting

 

Also i need to fix the front rack that is broken.  tried to source a replacement but they are bend in about the some spot.

 

 

I noted your welded location in my research but can not wrap around welding on the frame as its not a replaceable component.

Same with splash guards.   Would rather not cut if i could help it.

 

 

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Edited by triharder
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3 hours ago, triharder said:

I'm working out the mount situation currently.  (installed in front of the location you did). 

my 3/16 plate isn't what wanted and i bought a 1/4, but i need to catch the front bolt holes for the rack with my mount when i'm done. 

(Its not lost on me this 4-wheeler weighs what 500 lb-600 lbs.  I bought the badlands 3500 (as i figure oversize motor tugging a low weight is better than the harbor freight 2500 for the same duty).

guard is removed for painting

 

Also i need to fix the front rack that is broken.  tried to source a replacement but they are bend in about the some spot.

 

 

I noted your welded location in my research but can not wrap around welding on the frame as its not a replaceable component.

Same with splash guards.   Would rather not cut if i could help it.

 

 

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i see the front axle skid plate has been cut off, and missing ?, this is a very important part that protects the front diff..this diff is not easy to replace !!..lol. i don't think that spot is strong enough to hold that winch ?, for your sake..i hope it is !. i used the frame area for the simple fact that is the strongest point on the whole atv. these models are very heavy as you said..once you get them stuck ?, now double..triple that weight when trying to get it out. my set up looks dang near factory, you would never know i have a winch on mine if it wasn't for the hook sticking out the front..lol.

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Sorry.

My fault,  nothing has been cut. (I did cut exhaust wire guard to get the header out)  i will fix it.

 

Checked timing chain i.m at about 1/4 left on tensioner.

So adjust left but not a lot?

I bought a cam chain just need to decide if i.m swapping.

 

I also have a valve cover to re hondabond.  So it makes sense to check clutches too i guess.

 

Then its off to pulling the siliencer and fixing rot in the bottom (jb weld this none pressure area).

 

More to come.

 

I was going to weld my front rack/fix but i ran out of talent.

 

Oh and i need new rear seals.

 

 

 

 

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received_705076417444380.jpeg

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2 hours ago, triharder said:

Sorry.

My fault,  nothing has been cut. (I did cut exhaust wire guard to get the header out)  i will fix it.

 

Checked timing chain i.m at about 1/4 left on tensioner.

So adjust left but not a lot?

I bought a cam chain just need to decide if i.m swapping.

 

I also have a valve cover to re hondabond.  So it makes sense to check clutches too i guess.

 

Then its off to pulling the siliencer and fixing rot in the bottom (jb weld this none pressure area).

 

More to come.

 

I was going to weld my front rack/fix but i ran out of talent.

 

Oh and i need new rear seals.

 

 

 

 

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1/4 left on cam chain ?, yeah...you deff need to replace that cam chain !!. word from the wise..if you put it off too long ?, it will jump time, and destroy engine parts !!. those cam's, rockers are very, VERY hard to locate in good shape these days ?, and if you do find them ?, THEY WILL COST YOU A PRETTY PENNY...I'LL BANK ON THIS !..LOL. along with a cam chain, yamabond, plan on a clutch side cover gasket, oil filter, and maybe even the oil seals for the kick starter and reverse shaft if you can still get them from honda ?. it's best to tilt the atv on its left side about 45 degree's or drain the engine oil seeing how you are changing out the oil filter anyway..which means you will need 3 qrts of wet clutch approved atv/motorcycle engine oil. the reason for titling the atv is so when you go to put the side cover back on, the change clutch parts will stay in place when you install cover back on. dab a small amount of grease to the triangle part with the 3 balls and spring to hold it in place, SPRING FACES DOWN !. another word from the wise..BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO LET THE KICK STARTER SHAFT COME OUT AT ALL WHEN YOU PULL CLUTCH COVER !!. REASON: there is a thrust washer on the very end of that kick starter shaft..when and if you move or let this shaft come out any at all ?, i'll bet a 30 pack of bud ( and i don't like seeing good cold brew going to waste !..lol ) this washer will fall off into the lower engine case !!!..trust me on this..it will ruin your day !..lol. make note of any and all thrust washer when you pull cover, there will be a large washer on the outside of the kickstarter end, and a small washer that goes on the end of the reverse shaft. i don't recall or remember if there is also a small washer on the change clutch shifting arm or not ?, do not have my service manual sitting in front of me ? ( check in the manual if there is or not ? ).

 

Make note of the shifting shaft as it comes out the lower left bottom of the engine case, in the very back, as the shaft comes through the case, there is a raised stamp arrow pointing towards the shaft, when you go to slide the arm back on the shaft, this arm has a punch mark/dot on the left end side of it, IT MUST FACE THE RAISED STAMP ARROW !. if you do not line these back up ?, it will not shift correctly. back to side cover, once you remove the cover, make a mental note that the oil pick up screen is under the side cover gasket, you will need to peel the gasket off to see it, clean it, install it right back in while your looking at it !..( dont ask me how/why i am telling you this..lol ) when you get ready to put cover back on, install the reverse shaft with the long end of the shaft facing about 1 o'clock up under the shift drum, short end faces down towards the bottom left side, long end of spring rest on bottom of top side of engine case, once you get the reverse shaft installed, pry the long end of this spring back as far as you can bend it...yes..i said bend it !!. REASON: if for any reason you have to remove this cover after you discover it wont shift right ?, leave a part out like a washer or what not ?, you will pull the reverse shaft back out of the case, spring will drop down, AND TEAR YOUR BRAND NEW GASKET !...yes..i have seen this happen many times !!. FAIR WARNING !!!!..MAKE SURE THIS SPRING IS IN ITS PLACE BEFORE YOU INSTALL COVER ??!!..i've seen it happen many times..the long end of this spring pops down, lay's between the engine case, and side cover, and folks bolt the cover on, not knowing the end of this spring is wedged between the cover and case..and now have ruined the gasket..and deformed the engine case..or cover matting surface !.

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Just a thot. You don’t need a winch for plowing. Use a new-type manual lifting arm from Cycle Country. Forget the headache of fitting a winch to this. mounted to bumper you’re going to be limited to 1000 lbs anyway.

 

 

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Beautiful machine.

I wanted the winch in either case but your correct the plow could be manual.

 

Stickered up today while i wait for that cam chain to arrive this week and the $80 bucks in seals i bought today if needed for that clutch cover.

 

Still need

New stickers.
Nxt up
Cam chain,
Rear axle oil seals
Exhaust coat, muffler patch
Fuel tank gauge apart and cleaned.
And still need help welding the front rack and winch mount

 

But theres no rush.

 

I tried to swap the switch knobs on the left handlebar with a replacements.  Now i think i might need to superglue the run knob as the old tab is non existent.

 

Not sure touching things makes them better or worse.

 

Also i supposed i should swap to a build thread as i.m sure i.ll have more questions as i continue with cam chain.

 

Think its worth replacing the brushes in the starter for good measure?

 

received_760644864977237.jpeg

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19 minutes ago, triharder said:

Beautiful machine.

I wanted the winch in either case but your correct the plow could be manual.

 

Stickered up today while i wait for that cam chain to arrive this week and the $80 bucks in seals i bought today if needed for that clutch cover.

 

Still need

New stickers.
Nxt up
Cam chain,
Rear axle oil seals
Exhaust coat, muffler patch
Fuel tank gauge apart and cleaned.
And still need help welding the front rack and winch mount

 

But theres no rush.

 

I tried to swap the switch knobs on the left handlebar with a replacements.  Now i think i might need to superglue the run knob as the old tab is non existent.

 

Not sure touching things makes them better or worse.

 

Also i supposed i should swap to a build thread as i.m sure i.ll have more questions as i continue with cam chain.

 

Think its worth replacing the brushes in the starter for good measure?

 

received_760644864977237.jpeg

see if you can get a starter from D&B electrical, worth the money and time.

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If you can find a used switch assembly, the kill switch knob simply pops off with a screwdriver 

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Oh i already popped it off,  my new one just doesn.t feel secure and the old one doesn.t either.

 

New problems?

 

Jb weld (2 part epoxy).

Or?

Silver braze (map torch and some wire)

Or

Pay ti have welded as i lack tooling and skill.  See above image

1655055337568390914982513424571.jpg

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1 hour ago, triharder said:

Oh i already popped it off,  my new one just doesn.t feel secure and the old one doesn.t either.

 

New problems?

 

Jb weld (2 part epoxy).

Or?

Silver braze (map torch and some wire)

Or

Pay ti have welded as i lack tooling and skill.  See above image

1655055337568390914982513424571.jpg

 i can tell you right now, you..or anyone that tries to weld that muffler ^^ ?, all that will happen is make the holes bigger !. the metal is too far gone to weld anything to it. it can not be welded. and yes..the pressure chamber DOES run through the whole muffler unlike you said earlier.

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Not sure what you mean about pressure chamber?

Yes the whole thing sees pressure.  There is a good youtube video of somebody building one of these i watched.

 

I jb welded it for now.  Welding my plan would have been to roll new steel and patch to good metal.   But jb weld will work for now.

 

Figured i.d post this if anybody can guess the machine.

 

Shadetree thanks for any help you can provide.  If there is a mistake to be made i.ve made it.  Would rather not break something that can.t be replaced on this rig.

 

Trying to decide if chasing the fuel gauge intermitt working is worthwhile.

Saw a great post here of the inner workings.  Looks like a tank that sat for 12 years probably ly needs the inside cleaned up to made bettercontacts.

 

Kid before me cleaned it out and ran fuel filters in series until the gas was clear (clever as he paid 250 bucks for this thing).

 

Why they would do the fuel gauge is crazy,  why not just the arm in the tank and circuit on the outside i.ll never know.

 

Looks easy enough once the tank is off.

 

Does anybody know where the grounds are for the electrical,  would like to clean them up before getting in too deep.

 

As always keep the suggestions coming.

 

I.m going to print out that cam chain advice before i start that project .

Screenshot_20220612-150350_Messenger.jpg

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1 hour ago, triharder said:

Oh i already popped it off,  my new one just doesn.t feel secure and the old one doesn.t either.

 

New problems?

 

Jb weld (2 part epoxy).

Or?

Silver braze (map torch and some wire)

Or

Pay ti have welded as i lack tooling and skill.  See above image

1655055337568390914982513424571.jpg

I can tell by looking at  them Crocks , that little welding job aint no step for a stepper !!!! 

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8 hours ago, triharder said:

Not sure what you mean about pressure chamber?

Yes the whole thing sees pressure.  There is a good youtube video of somebody building one of these i watched.

 

I jb welded it for now.  Welding my plan would have been to roll new steel and patch to good metal.   But jb weld will work for now.

 

Figured i.d post this if anybody can guess the machine.

 

Shadetree thanks for any help you can provide.  If there is a mistake to be made i.ve made it.  Would rather not break something that can.t be replaced on this rig.

 

Trying to decide if chasing the fuel gauge intermitt working is worthwhile.

Saw a great post here of the inner workings.  Looks like a tank that sat for 12 years probably ly needs the inside cleaned up to made bettercontacts.

 

Kid before me cleaned it out and ran fuel filters in series until the gas was clear (clever as he paid 250 bucks for this thing).

 

Why they would do the fuel gauge is crazy,  why not just the arm in the tank and circuit on the outside i.ll never know.

 

Looks easy enough once the tank is off.

 

Does anybody know where the grounds are for the electrical,  would like to clean them up before getting in too deep.

 

As always keep the suggestions coming.

 

I.m going to print out that cam chain advice before i start that project .

Screenshot_20220612-150350_Messenger.jpg

the arm inside the tank has what i call tiny fingers..these fingers float up and down on a small circuit board..which then makes the digital meter on front right inner fender give you the reading in red lines/dots. when the arm gets old, worn out, it gets loose in the metal bracket where the circuit board is mounted, this in turn does not allow the tiny fingers to stay pressed against the circuit board. when my arm ( sending unit is what they are called ) went out, i was lucky enough to find a NOS one on ebay, but boy did it cost me !..lol. i only spent the cash on it, because at that time, i purchased a plastic tank for mine, no more rust in tank or carb !. it also was not cheap..but it sure has paid for itself sense then !.

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i like your organizational style with your parts. You have cards in them describing where they go? What engine is this from? Powdercoated red?
 

I think Shadetree paid about $300 for the sending unit—that was at least 3 years ago. Power sports nation sells them used occasionally for $100.

 

 

 Here’s my last project—bought from an estate sale for $700. The owner was a small engine mech—cam chain and at least one valve was new. I need to replace the steering bearing and grease the front end bearings—@jeep and I’m sure Shadetree have great methods for doing this
 

F3E49B46-993F-492A-9D39-3493D654D4D0.jpeg

126939B8-6CFE-43DE-8319-FBAC982EAFEC.jpeg

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1 hour ago, Goober said:

i like your organizational style with your parts. You have cards in them describing where they go? What engine is this from? Powdercoated red?
 

I think Shadetree paid about $300 for the sending unit—that was at least 3 years ago. Power sports nation sells them used occasionally for $100.

 

 

 Here’s my last project—bought from an estate sale for $700. The owner was a small engine mech—cam chain and at least one valve was new. I need to replace the steering bearing and grease the front end bearings—@jeep and I’m sure Shadetree have great methods for doing this
 

F3E49B46-993F-492A-9D39-3493D654D4D0.jpeg

126939B8-6CFE-43DE-8319-FBAC982EAFEC.jpeg

on that lower steering bearing, remove the lower bearing bracket, it will be easier to get the bearing out to replace it..if you can locate a new one ?.

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10 hours ago, shadetree said:

the arm inside the tank has what i call tiny fingers..these fingers float up and down on a small circuit board..which then makes the digital meter on front right inner fender give you the reading in red lines/dots. when the arm gets old, worn out, it gets loose in the metal bracket where the circuit board is mounted, this in turn does not allow the tiny fingers to stay pressed against the circuit board. when my arm ( sending unit is what they are called ) went out, i was lucky enough to find a NOS one on ebay, but boy did it cost me !..lol. i only spent the cash on it, because at that time, i purchased a plastic tank for mine, no more rust in tank or carb !. it also was not cheap..but it sure has paid for itself sense then !.

 

Wonder if the board/fingers are the same as some of the other models?

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, Goober said:

i like your organizational style with your parts. You have cards in them describing where they go? What engine is this from? Powdercoated red?

She's an 86 XL250R dirtbike.  

Still running and like i mentioned before "if there is a mistake to be made i've made it".

 

 

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4 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

 

Wonder if the board/fingers are the same as some of the other models?

 

 

 

i do not know if they are the same ?, i looked one up just now, only thing i see that might be a problem is they do not mount to the side of the tank like the oem sending units do on the old 350's. and i also would bet that the float arm and float are not the same length as oem.

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29 minutes ago, shadetree said:

i do not know if they are the same ?, i looked one up just now, only thing i see that might be a problem is they do not mount to the side of the tank like the oem sending units do on the old 350's. and i also would bet that the float arm and float are not the same length as oem.

 

I used the original arm, float, etc on the 500's.  I just took the little finger bit (plastic bit that the fingers are attached to) off the china sending unit and put it on the OEM arm/float assembly. 

 

 

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Okay a few items to discuss.

 

1)  tried the 2000 degree high heat black paint no primer on my tailpipe and jb weld patch.

I did not prime the siliencer.

I heat treated in the has grill at 250 for 30, let cool, then 400 for 30 let cool.

Then got distracted on final 600 degrees and of course when i checked it ten minutes n

Later the grill tan up to 650 on my none calibrated gauge and it had a lot of ash.

Cold be burnt up tin foil, old food greae or other.  I could and did rub off the black

See pix below.  Will decide how header heat treatment goes if i.m going to tedo siliencer with primer,  also midded what i thought was a drainage hole.  Its a rust hole.  Might just patch or redo wil see.

 

2nd.  Pulled covers off valves and was getting all the way up to .005" clearance.

Weird as i always thought valves wore tighter as the compress the seats.

Will adjust  before timing chain replace.

 

3rd.  Did a cold compeession check with header off and got 155 psi.  Which is pretty low.  However  book specs a warm engine test.  S

 

Correct me if i.m wrong but shouldn.t it be close cold or warm?

 

Also would loose not tight valves keep the compression number low?.

 

BasicLly should i just order new rings and pull the jug too?

 

Tomorrow leak down test. Should give me health of valves.

 

Probably makes sense to replace cam chain, adjust valves and test compression while warm.

 

Thing starts first rotation and feels fine with no excess smoke when it runs.

 

Save me from myself please.

 

 

 

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Posted (edited)

You’re better off changing the cam chain before you set the valves. IMO if you know it’s bad, you’re risking bending a valve.

i think Shadetree already mentioned this so I’m just trying to help you. 
 

i used 2000F Rustoleum primer on my heat shield, header and Cobra silencer. I used 2000F paint on the header and silencer . Plus new copper gaskets. It lightly smoked for a few days after

 

i think you’re doing good work; carry on as you think just my .02

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Edited by Goober
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