BlueJay 26 Posted September 19, 2022 New member here. I recently acquired a 2000 Honda Rancher ES (TRX350TE) that had been sitting in a barn for 5 years unused. Before I try to crank it, what steps should I take before pulling the cord? I have rebuilt mowers and small tractors for years but ATV’s are a new venture. Thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Wilson_™ 6,430 Posted September 19, 2022 Welcome to the forums, things needed to be checked ? Fresh gas new battery, check the condition of the air filter, fresh oil change, check the rear end oil, spark plug condition, brakes, and it's been sitting in a barn for five years ? Take a good ,loOk at the wire harness for rodent damage..... Also a quick look over any rubber lines , check and see if any cables are sluggish / froze up...... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BlueJay 26 Posted September 19, 2022 Thanks for the replies. I have redone the brakes and lines, new filters & battery, and all the obvious external stuff. I am mainly concerned with prepping the engine for firing up. I plan on replacing all of the fluids but is there anything special to do to the internals of the engine before I try to start it after sitting so long. Thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goober 1,555 Posted September 19, 2022 Exactly what @_Wilson_™ mentioned ^^^ keep in mind this machine requires wet clutch oil; don’t install the oil filter backwards; don’t overtighten the oil drain plug—just snug. carb is likely to have condensation and water in it so loosen the carb bowl drain and let some fresh fuel in you’re likely to have a fuel leak from the carb, so be ready to close the petcock!!! did you download the service manual from the forum folder? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shadetree 5,543 Posted September 19, 2022 15 hours ago, BlueJay said: New member here. I recently acquired a 2000 Honda Rancher ES (TRX350TE) that had been sitting in a barn for 5 years unused. Before I try to crank it, what steps should I take before pulling the cord? I have rebuilt mowers and small tractors for years but ATV’s are a new venture. Thanks. among what has already been said ^^, sitting for 5 yrs tells me to expect the change clutch friction disk to be stuck together, not saying they are ?, but odd's are...they will be stuck or a few stuck anyway. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BlueJay 26 Posted September 19, 2022 Yeah this thing has the electronic shift which is a new thing for me. I was able to use the “emergency shift” to get it into neutral so I will check the ES functionality next. Thanks for all the good advice! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BlueJay 26 Posted September 24, 2022 Finally got the rear brake rebuilt as well as new front pads and pistons. I plan on rebuilding the master cylinder next but the fluid inside looks like coffee. Should I try to purge the fluid with the banjos unhooked or is it okay to pull all of that old fluid through the new pistons and out the bleed screws? Thanks 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goober 1,555 Posted September 24, 2022 I would use a clean lint free cloth to blot out the fluid in the master cylinder. Then use a plumbers flux brush to dislodge the sediment you’ll see trapped in those settling ribs. Don’t let any of that go downstream if you can help it. Just end up in your wheel cylinders 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goober 1,555 Posted September 24, 2022 (edited) I raise em up so i can remove the front wheels to bleed the brake lines. i install 3ft lengths of 1/4”? Plastic hose on the bleed nipples. So air doesn’t get sucked back in and so you can monitor fluid color and clarity. i bleed them until the fluid is colorless and clear; if fluid was really old i wait overnight and bleed them again. The more efficient guys can say it’s wasteful but usually after sitting overnight the new fluid somehow picks up some cloudiness Edited September 24, 2022 by Goober 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BlueJay 26 Posted October 30, 2022 Finally got it running and took several laps around the backyard and everything is working - even the gears shift through the entire range. The front brakes are still spongy after several bleed sessions and I noticed it was it was leaking at the bleed screw on the left side. The rear brakes are good (I rebuilt everything front & rear) so it does stop with that. I was wondering if I could swap out the leaking front bleed screw with a standard bolt until I can get back to that problem without introducing too much air into the system? The front brakes do stop it but it is pushing the rubber cap off so I know it is leaking there. Thanks. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goober 1,555 Posted October 30, 2022 You could use a nolt but best to get a replacement bleed screw you’ll have to only bleed once more that away Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
