Another ES Shifting Issue (Stuck in gear)

[BlueJay 26]

After digging through all of the posts on ES shifting issues, I decided to post my problem and see what replies I get. I got this 2000 TRX350TE and had everything up and running in the 1 acre backyard (looks like a dirt track now) and it ran & shifted fine for several runs. After the next to last run it stuck in third & wouldn’t shift even with the manual shifter. I drug it back to the garage and got it to shift manually when I had the wheels off the ground and rocked it. I did the ES servicing according to a write-up someone had posted & took it out for another run about 10-15 minutes and it shifted perfectly. I stopped and tried to reverse it and it wouldn’t shift back up to the low gears again. It would shift down to the higher gears but not back up but I couldn’t tell which gear it was in since my display is burned out in the gear area (next on the list). I read a long post on angle sensors and an upgrade but didn’t know if it will fit mine or even if that is the issue. I haven’t pulled the front case to check the innards but I am open to suggestions. Thanks. 

[jeepwm69 7,233]

15 hours ago, BlueJay said:

After digging through all of the posts on ES shifting issues, I decided to post my problem and see what replies I get. I got this 2000 TRX350TE and had everything up and running in the 1 acre backyard (looks like a dirt track now) and it ran & shifted fine for several runs. After the next to last run it stuck in third & wouldn’t shift even with the manual shifter. I drug it back to the garage and got it to shift manually when I had the wheels off the ground and rocked it. I did the ES servicing according to a write-up someone had posted & took it out for another run about 10-15 minutes and it shifted perfectly. I stopped and tried to reverse it and it wouldn’t shift back up to the low gears again. It would shift down to the higher gears but not back up but I couldn’t tell which gear it was in since my display is burned out in the gear area (next on the list). I read a long post on angle sensors and an upgrade but didn’t know if it will fit mine or even if that is the issue. I haven’t pulled the front case to check the innards but I am open to suggestions. Thanks. 

If you’re having trouble shifting it with a manual shifter then it’s probably mechanical. The shift plates are known to crack on the 350 ranchers.

 

You’ll have to unbolt the front diff and pull it forward to remove the front driveshaft, then stay on the bike up on its rear rack, on both the fan and swinging out-of-the-way, and then you can remove the front cover on the engine. You’d be looking at the shift linkage down on the bottom below the change clutch to the “drivers” side if you were sitting on the bike.

 

First thing to do, is to see if the problem will keep you from manually shifting it with the emergency shifter. If so, next step is to pull the front cover

[BlueJay 26]

I figured this was the next plan of action after redoing the ES system as per the excellent write-up that was posted here. I will get on that next weekend since I am done helping a friend build a fence. When I pull the front cover do I need to drain the oil first? The wet clutch concept is new to me.  Thanks. 

[jeepwm69 7,233]

On 1/28/2023 at 3:08 PM, BlueJay said:

I figured this was the next plan of action after redoing the ES system as per the excellent write-up that was posted here. I will get on that next weekend since I am done helping a friend build a fence. When I pull the front cover do I need to drain the oil first? The wet clutch concept is new to me.  Thanks. 

 

If you stand it up on the rear end, the oil all goes to the back of the engine so you don't have to drain it.  Just make sure you clean it up a bit so you're not dropping dirt into the open front cover while you're nosing around in there.

 

And shut your fuel petcock off and clamp the breather line on the gas cap closed or you've have fuel dumping out everywhere.

[BlueJay 26]

I just pulled the front cover and everything inside seems to be in place. The gearshift arm and the spindle arm are not broken and seem to be in the correct location as far as I can tell. I have the rear wheels off the ground but it will only shift down and not back up when I use the manual shifter and rotate the wheels. Is there something else I should be looking for? The interior of this motor looks factory new, especially to be 23 years old. No metal shavings or parts broken off. What should I try next next? Thanks.

Edited February 11 by BlueJay

[BlueJay 26]

One more thing, it seems that it is getting stuck in third gear when I shift back up (manually) for what that’s worth. 

[BlueJay 26]

One more update, I tried to get the gearshift arm off to inspect it but the clutches are in the way. Is it possible to remove both clutches without the special tools listed in the FSM? Thanks. 

[shadetree 5,554]

3 hours ago, BlueJay said:

One more update, I tried to get the gearshift arm off to inspect it but the clutches are in the way. Is it possible to remove both clutches without the special tools listed in the FSM? Thanks. 

 

3 hours ago, BlueJay said:

One more update, I tried to get the gearshift arm off to inspect it but the clutches are in the way. Is it possible to remove both clutches without the special tools listed in the FSM? Thanks. 

most of the clutch parts ( arm for sure ) lifts right off the shifting shaft, no need to remove any clutches. but yes...you can remove the clutches without the spec clutch puller tool, BUT !!!, you better have a very good aim/swing in order to hammer the centrifugal clutch off the crank ?!. one good miss, and you will hit the case, and break it !..lol. its best to have the spec tool to pop the clutch off the crank. 27 mm socket to remove the stake nut, comes off easy with an air impact gun.

[BlueJay 26]

Any special trick to pulling the gearshift arm without pulling the clutches? There is a pin/shaft on the gear arm that is keeping it from swinging free and pulling free. 

[shadetree 5,554]

5 hours ago, BlueJay said:

Any special trick to pulling the gearshift arm without pulling the clutches? There is a pin/shaft on the gear arm that is keeping it from swinging free and pulling free. 

the arm should slide off the shaft, the lower part will not come off unless you have the oil pipe removed. if you are trying to get to the whole shifting parts under the change clutch ?, then yes, you will need to pull the clutches.

[BlueJay 26]

Yeah I removed the pipe and the arms came off easily. The main shift mechanism in the back had some rough spots that I could feel which may indicate broken tabs but the only way to see it is to pull it. I was hoping to not have to mess with pulling the clutches but that looks inevitable. I am hoping a large gear puller will do the trick once I get the tabs “unstaked”.  Thanks for the replies. 

[shadetree 5,554]

6 hours ago, BlueJay said:

Yeah I removed the pipe and the arms came off easily. The main shift mechanism in the back had some rough spots that I could feel which may indicate broken tabs but the only way to see it is to pull it. I was hoping to not have to mess with pulling the clutches but that looks inevitable. I am hoping a large gear puller will do the trick once I get the tabs “unstaked”.  Thanks for the replies. 

don't worry about the staked nuts, an air impat gun will zip the nut off, yes, you can re-use the nuts. as for the gear puller ?, it has been used a few times here by a member, myself, i use the correct tool to avoid messing up anything.

[toodeep 1,737]

You should be able to just remove the nut on the change clutch and it will go forward just enough to remove the shift components. It is so much easier to inspect removing the clutches though.

[BlueJay 26]

That’s what I planned to do first (loosen change clutch) since it looked like it would move up far enough and wasn’t a “wedge fit” like the drive clutch. A couple of YouTube videos showed doing it that way but some of those aren’t exactly reliable. I priced the puller and it seems a bit pricey for something I don’t plan on using more than once. I appreciate the help!

[BlueJay 26]

Okay a status report: I loosened & pulled the change clutch up far enough to remove the gearshift plate and it was in perfect shape. I plan on putting it back together somewhat so I can check again the shifting manually before I pull the engine and check the rest of the shifting components on the back side. Questions I have at this point:

 

1) Is there a way to retorque the change clutch nut without buying the special “clutch center holder”? Just “burp” the impact wrench and leave it at that?

2) Should the shifting mechanism move easier when using the manual shift? I tried to move the gearshift cam by hand (tapping a wooden dowel) and it didn’t act like it wanted to move. 

3) If I do have to pull the main clutch is it reverse threaded?

4) What should I do next?

 

Thanks for all the replies so far, ya’ll have been very helpful. I’ve worked on mower engines most of my life but this ATV stuff is new to me. 

[BlueJay 26]

I went ahead and put the basic parts back together and it is now shifting correctly with the manual shifter. I haven’t put the front case back on yet to try the electronic shift yet. I am still scratching my head about what was actually “fixed”. I took it apart and now it works again - the most frustrating repair is when I don’t know what I did to “fix” it.

Should I apply sealant to the front case mating surfaces (as per FSM)? If so, what kind can I get locally rather than order Hondabond, etc.?

 

Thanks.

[shadetree 5,554]

3 hours ago, BlueJay said:

I went ahead and put the basic parts back together and it is now shifting correctly with the manual shifter. I haven’t put the front case back on yet to try the electronic shift yet. I am still scratching my head about what was actually “fixed”. I took it apart and now it works again - the most frustrating repair is when I don’t know what I did to “fix” it.

Should I apply sealant to the front case mating surfaces (as per FSM)? If so, what kind can I get locally rather than order Hondabond, etc.?

 

Thanks.

only use yamabobd or hondabond..DO NOT USE ANYTHING ELSE BUT ONE OF THESE !.  air impact the nut down good..leave alone. all nuts on these models are reg threads, lefty loosie. been there a million times...never could find out the problem..'' it just fixed itself '' by just putting it all back together..yep..been there..done that. what i can tell you is..even if we '' thought '' we did the same thing ?, chances are..you done something different, and did not see it !.

[BlueJay 26]

I couldn’t find any specific torque values for the front crankcase cover in the FSM. Any suggestions? Thanks again.

[Goober 1,555]

You might find the specific torque values listed in the front of the manual (spec section) or by bolt/nut type. Probably an 8mm flange bolt?

[shadetree 5,554]

1 hour ago, BlueJay said:

I couldn’t find any specific torque values for the front crankcase cover in the FSM. Any suggestions? Thanks again.

i don't go by the book when it comes to torque values, i go by feel, then again..i've been doing it 30 yrs..sooo..lol.

[BlueJay 26]

Too many times I have used the “redneck torque” setting: tighten it in until it lets go, then back it up a half turn.

[Goober 1,555]

Page 17 of the FSM 

 

[BlueJay 26]

Hopefully a wrap-up. I finally got it back together and it is shifting again and seems to be smoother than it was before the gear lockup. Besides giving everything a good cleaning and greasing I did not find anything broken. I did un-seize the rusted clutch adjustment and readjusted it so that may have been the problem all along. I need to take it on a prolonged ride to see if it is truly fixed. At least I know what the inside looks like and made a clutch holder for future use. 

[_Wilson_™ 6,435]

Thanks for the update!