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walhonding300

"Daily Driver" 300FW

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I have only posted a few times with a few questions,. but received great responses and help.  Thank you

 

I guess I will start a thread to update on the progress I am making with my 1998 300FW.  I am calling it a daily driver because I want to "restore it" to a point that it runs great and looks OK.  Not a show piece by any means.  I have owned multiple ATVs, including 2 Hondas ('03 400ex and just recently an '88 trx125).  I wanted a machine that met my criteria (reliable, easy to fix, inexpensive, and small enough that I feel comfortable with my 10 year old driving it).  Need FWD and the ability to use it for firewood and still have some fun with it.  

I found it on marketplace.  It was owned by an old farmer that passed.  His family was selling it.  They said it had not run until the grandson did a little work on it.  It didn't run great, but it ran and the price was right.  It looks like it was used on a farm.  The frame and racks have surface rust from it just not getting cleaned and dirt/mud sitting on it. but nothing beyond that.  Has not ever been mudded.  Gas tank has very few scratches and other than 1 black fender flair, the plastic has no cracks.

Now when I say the grandson had just worked on it to get it running, I mean he bought a Chinese refresh kit off amazon.  Spark plug cable, solenoid, key and ignition, handlebar switch module and carb.  It ran, but it ran like the choke was stuck on and the valves were off.  I have a very, very good mechanic that works on older atvs in his spare time.  He asked me to buy a used oem carb and a shindy rebuild kit along with a clutch cable.  He rebuilt that carb, did a leak down test and adjusted the valves.  Someone had tried adjusting the valves.  They were way off, but open to far, which he said was a sign someone had tried to do it previously.  After his work, it literally runs like it is brand new.  I could not be happier.  I will post more picks and progress as I make it.  

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Looks nice.  You have the front rack and bumper?

 

I had @shadetree rebuild the engine in my daughter's 97 TRX300.  Swapped in a 350 Foreman rear end, added 420 Rancher shocks up front for a small lift, did 07-13 420 disc brakes up front, added a 424 front driveshaft disconnect so she can put in 2wd on dry ground, and modded it to start in gear with the right brake lever pulled.

 

It's a neat little rig to ride.  I need to get it out and ride it, as she's off at school so it's just been sitting for a few months.

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1 hour ago, walhonding300 said:

  He asked me to buy  a clutch cable. 

Looking good , great find !!!! 

 

Not a clutch cable , it has an automatic clutch   ....  Do you mean  throttle cable , brake cable , fuel enrichment cable or maybe a reverse lock out cable 

 

 

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27 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

Looking good , great find !!!! 

 

Not a clutch cable , it has an automatic clutch   ....  Do you mean  throttle cable , brake cable , fuel enrichment cable or maybe a reverse lock out cable 

 

 

Given that he was working on the carb, my guess would be a choke cable.

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Yes clutch cable.  I was out of it when I typed that I guess.

 

I do have the front rack and bumper.  I took them off to wire wheel and paint them.  I am using black tractor enamel on the racks and Rustoleum truck bed liner on the bumper.  I plan on using the bed liner on the frame and pegs.  I do not plan on ripping the entire thing apart to paint the frame.  Just as I work on other things, like replacing the front drive shafts, I will tape off anything I need to.  Then just spray it as needed.  I like the bed liner because it durable, self levels, fills voids and sticks really well with just a little rough up.  The rustoleum stuff also is not overly thick and gritty.  I also plan on cleaning the rims up and painting, but not sure what color I want them or what paint I want to use yet.  

 

The rest of the list...

- Change all fluids again.  I have done it once but wanted to run it a bit to flush them out.

- 2500 or 3500# Winch

- Uni Filter

- Replace front axles.  Both have torn boots

- Replace brake pads.  Although, I am interested in the disc conversion.  If I am understanding correctly, I can put a ranchers disc brakes on it?  

- Fabricate a full rear swing arm skid plate.  Both of the originals are pretty rough.  I have the steel and the ability, so I think I will just make one full plate to replace both.  

- Fabricate a set of nerf bars.  I see pictures of 300s with the full metal nerf bars around the foot pegs and I like them.  Again, I have the metal and the ability so why not.

- Fabricate hand guards.

- Replace head lights with LEDs.

 

I am sure I will come up with more, but for now, it's runs very well.  It's going to get used and if I just tear into doing a bunch of different projects on it, we wouldn't be able to ride it.  

 

I am also 100% open to input and advice.

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3 hours ago, walhonding300 said:

Yes clutch cable.  I was out of it when I typed that I guess.

 

I do have the front rack and bumper.  I took them off to wire wheel and paint them.  I am using black tractor enamel on the racks and Rustoleum truck bed liner on the bumper.  I plan on using the bed liner on the frame and pegs.  I do not plan on ripping the entire thing apart to paint the frame.  Just as I work on other things, like replacing the front drive shafts, I will tape off anything I need to.  Then just spray it as needed.  I like the bed liner because it durable, self levels, fills voids and sticks really well with just a little rough up.  The rustoleum stuff also is not overly thick and gritty.  I also plan on cleaning the rims up and painting, but not sure what color I want them or what paint I want to use yet.  

 

The rest of the list...

- Change all fluids again.  I have done it once but wanted to run it a bit to flush them out.

- 2500 or 3500# Winch

- Uni Filter

- Replace front axles.  Both have torn boots

- Replace brake pads.  Although, I am interested in the disc conversion.  If I am understanding correctly, I can put a ranchers disc brakes on it?  

- Fabricate a full rear swing arm skid plate.  Both of the originals are pretty rough.  I have the steel and the ability, so I think I will just make one full plate to replace both.  

- Fabricate a set of nerf bars.  I see pictures of 300s with the full metal nerf bars around the foot pegs and I like them.  Again, I have the metal and the ability so why not.

- Fabricate hand guards.

- Replace head lights with LEDs.

 

I am sure I will come up with more, but for now, it's runs very well.  It's going to get used and if I just tear into doing a bunch of different projects on it, we wouldn't be able to ride it.  

 

I am also 100% open to input and advice.

 

You'll spend more trying to fix your drum brakes than it will cost to do a conversion.

 

Two ways to go about it.

 

Buy a SuperATV @SuperATV disc brake conversion, or a Highlifter (more expensive) disc brake conversion.

 

OR

 

Use 2007-2013 420 Rancher knuckles, hub/rotor assembles, and calipers.  This route DOES involve enlarging the upper ball joint hole in the arm to accept a bigger ball joint.  Other than that it's bolt and go.  Will be pricey using new OEM parts, but if you can source good used OEM parts or buy aftermarket, shouldn't be too bad, and you have the benefit of being able to buy replacement components from Honda for the foreseeable future.

 

The 2007-2013 uses a bigger ball joint up top than the 300.  The bottom ball joints are the same on both machines, so not a tremendous amount of work.

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I like the conversion kit idea.  Looks like it might be a little more than I want to spend on brake work right now since the brakes still work, just not as good as disc.  Maybe I will plan on keeping my eyes open for the used 420 brake option and replace them as I can find them.  If I find them, I will be asking on how to adapt those ball joints.  Even if the rear were disc, it would be a significant improvement.  

 

I know no one is a big fan of Chinese replacement parts, me included. but...

 

Is there any reason why I couldn't buy the cheaper 420 brake parts on ebay to upgrade my brakes to disc?  I know they are not the quality of oem or super atv, but they have to still be an improvement on anything that is drum.  Just spitballin'

Edited by walhonding300

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5 hours ago, walhonding300 said:

Yes clutch cable.  I was out of it when I typed that I guess.

 

 

Sounds like a good plan  something I would like !!!  Couldn't live without floorboards 

 

But  we got to  get terminology right , 300 FWs don't have clutch cables , 300 EXs do 

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On 9/1/2023 at 3:41 PM, Fishfiles said:

Sounds like a good plan  something I would like !!!  Couldn't live without floorboards 

 

But  we got to  get terminology right , 300 FWs don't have clutch cables , 300 EXs do 

Just a slip up at the end of the day.  7 hours of dealing with teenagers can do that to you lol.

 

If anyone has them, would someone mind taking a few up close pictures of the metal footboards? I’d like to see how they’re attached and what the clearances are like around the pedals.  It would be greatly appreciated.  

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2 hours ago, walhonding300 said:

 

 

If anyone has them, would someone mind taking a few up close pictures of the metal footboards? I’d like to see how they’re attached and what the clearances are like around the pedals.  It would be greatly appreciated.  

 

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7 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

 

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Thank you very much.  It's greatly appreciated.  It looks like that's something I can handle making.  Going to incorporate the existing pegs. 

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14 hours ago, walhonding300 said:

Thank you very much.  It's greatly appreciated.  It looks like that's something I can handle making.  Going to incorporate the existing pegs. 

I made these floorboards  from scratch for my 450 , mounted with two bolts thru the foot peg and a u-bolt around the bottom frame tube 

 

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On 9/1/2023 at 2:08 PM, walhonding300 said:

I like the conversion kit idea.  Looks like it might be a little more than I want to spend on brake work right now since the brakes still work, just not as good as disc.  Maybe I will plan on keeping my eyes open for the used 420 brake option and replace them as I can find them.  If I find them, I will be asking on how to adapt those ball joints.  Even if the rear were disc, it would be a significant improvement.  

 

I know no one is a big fan of Chinese replacement parts, me included. but...

 

Is there any reason why I couldn't buy the cheaper 420 brake parts on ebay to upgrade my brakes to disc?  I know they are not the quality of oem or super atv, but they have to still be an improvement on anything that is drum.  Just spitballin'

I can get you a little discount if you decide to go with our conversion kit.  I don't check in here every day, but if you shoot me a PM I'll catch it soon and shoot you the forum member discount code. 

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A few updates and questions...

All fluids have been twice changed just to flush anything out.  I am set on those for at least a year.  I have also decided to get new tires but not in a huge hurry.  As much as I love Bighorns, I can't justify the price.  I will probably buy a cheap set of Bighorn knock offs (like the wandas that are on it now).  

 

My local Rural King has switched manufacturers they get their winches from.  There was a pallet of Providence/X Force winches on discount so I picked up a 3500# for $79.  If it's junk in a few years, I am only out a little bit.  Has anyone made their own winch mounting plates or have any suggestions?  My last atv (Polaris 500) had a winch already mounted so I have never actually installed one.

 

SuperATV... does the rear brake conversion kit just include the caliper and disc?  My fronts are not bad and I would convert them much later if needed but my rear needs some work.  The pedal is stiff and the spring at the pedal is shot.  All components on the rear end are pretty roughed up as well.  I want to replace as much as possible and your kit would be worth it to me if it came with everything from the pedal back.

 

As winter comes on, (very slowly here as of right now) I will start I taking things apart, cleaning, painting and replacing.  

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3 hours ago, walhonding300 said:

A few updates and questions...

All fluids have been twice changed just to flush anything out.  I am set on those for at least a year.  I have also decided to get new tires but not in a huge hurry.  As much as I love Bighorns, I can't justify the price.  I will probably buy a cheap set of Bighorn knock offs (like the wandas that are on it now).  

 

My local Rural King has switched manufacturers they get their winches from.  There was a pallet of Providence/X Force winches on discount so I picked up a 3500# for $79.  If it's junk in a few years, I am only out a little bit.  Has anyone made their own winch mounting plates or have any suggestions?  My last atv (Polaris 500) had a winch already mounted so I have never actually installed one.

 

SuperATV... does the rear brake conversion kit just include the caliper and disc?  My fronts are not bad and I would convert them much later if needed but my rear needs some work.  The pedal is stiff and the spring at the pedal is shot.  All components on the rear end are pretty roughed up as well.  I want to replace as much as possible and your kit would be worth it to me if it came with everything from the pedal back.

 

As winter comes on, (very slowly here as of right now) I will start I taking things apart, cleaning, painting and replacing.  

The rear kit will include everything you need.  Here's a link to the instructions.  The first two pages show all the contents.

Instructions and Contents

Its a nice kit.  The front kit is hydraulic, so its really really nice and has instant stopping power.  The front and rear conversion combo is where its at. 

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24 minutes ago, SuperATV said:

The rear kit will include everything you need.  Here's a link to the instructions.  The first two pages show all the contents.

Instructions and Contents

Its a nice kit.  The front kit is hydraulic, so its really really nice and has instant stopping power.  The front and rear conversion combo is where its at. 

@SuperATV, that rear brake conversion doesn't work on the TRX300FW does it?   Isn't it only for Foreman brakes with the drum out by the wheel?

 

@walhonding300

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4 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

@SuperATV, that rear brake conversion doesn't work on the TRX300FW does it?   Isn't it only for Foreman brakes with the drum out by the wheel?

 

@walhonding300

Ouch!  Yeah....the drum has to be out by the wheel.  Not the swingarm. 

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Would this still be the case if I found  420?  Would 420 rear brake set up work on my 300?  

 

I would love to convert the rears to hydraulic like the fronts but seems like a bit of a situation with the reverse button on the rear brake lever.

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2 hours ago, walhonding300 said:

Would this still be the case if I found  420?  Would 420 rear brake set up work on my 300?  

 

I would love to convert the rears to hydraulic like the fronts but seems like a bit of a situation with the reverse button on the rear brake lever.

 

420 rear brake setup is the same as the 300.  

 

My question is, would the rear disc setup work on an old 350D Foreman rear end, which you could then swap into a 300.

 

@SuperATV, any ideas on that one?

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59 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

 

420 rear brake setup is the same as the 300.  

 

My question is, would the rear disc setup work on an old 350D Foreman rear end, which you could then swap into a 300.

 

@SuperATV, any ideas on that one?

i can answer this...no..it will not work. why ?, the rims on the trx350D foreman are 11 inch rims, and also deep dished, i highly doubt the rims will clear the brake kit. now..you can go to 12 inch foreman rims ( 450 foreman ), and make it work. i converted my front brakes on my '89 trx350D foreman to high lifter disk brakes, but i had to make some special brackets to fit the brake kit on it. and i also used 12 inch rims for a 450 foreman both front and rear. i had to re-adjust the foot guards to make room for the 12 inch itp mudlites, was easy though.

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1 hour ago, shadetree said:

i can answer this...no..it will not work. why ?, the rims on the trx350D foreman are 11 inch rims, and also deep dished, i highly doubt the rims will clear the brake kit. now..you can go to 12 inch foreman rims ( 450 foreman ), and make it work. i converted my front brakes on my '89 trx350D foreman to high lifter disk brakes, but i had to make some special brackets to fit the brake kit on it. and i also used 12 inch rims for a 450 foreman both front and rear. i had to re-adjust the foot guards to make room for the 12 inch itp mudlites, was easy though.

 

Good point.  I run 12's all around on all of my rigs, so rim size wouldn't be an issue for me, but something that should be considered by anyone else looking at the swap.

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Yep, good point on the wheel fitment. 

 

Here's the official fitment chart for the REAR brake kit. 

Quote

Fitment:

  • Honda 4x4 Utility ATV's with a 12" or larger wheel and rear drum brakes

Does NOT Fit:

  • Models with drum brakes on swing arm
  • 2x4 Models
  • 2014+ 420 Models
  • 2014+ 500 Models

 

Here's the front hydraulic kit. 

Front Disc Brake Kit

 

Fitment: 

  • Honda Foreman 400 4x4 : All Years
  • Honda Foreman 450 4x4 : All Years
  • Honda Rancher 350 4x4 : All Years
  • Honda Rubicon 500 4x4 : All Years
  • Honda Rincon 650 4x4 : All Years
  • Honda Fourtrax 300 4x4 : 1992-1999

NOTE:

  • Can be used on 12" steel wheel or larger
  • If you have OEM aluminum wheels this kit will NOT wor
Edited by SuperATV

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