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jeepwm69

No spark, 2013 500 Foreman ES (now not fixed again)

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Thank you for your help!  This one is a bugger.  All from using an aftermarket coil.

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Can stick a pin or something sharp into the Bl/R wire at the fuse block to take a reading

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2 minutes ago, Melatv said:

Can stick a pin or something sharp into the Bl/R wire at the fuse block to take a reading


yes sir.  I did that.  On the battery side I get full voltage.  When I put a fuse in I get a voltage drop across the fuse.  Tried multiple fuses.  Something is drawing it down

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With black meter lead on neg of battery -- check the voltage on each little gray dot on top of ign. fuse

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Unplug the green connector (14pin)  going to the display meter --see if voltage goes up

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9 minutes ago, Melatv said:

Unplug the green connector (14pin)  going to the display meter --see if voltage goes up

I’m out of daylight here. I’ll see what that does in the AM.  Gotta get the mini-me to bed

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Okay

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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22 hours ago, Melatv said:

Unplug the green connector (14pin)  going to the display meter --see if voltage goes up

Did not.  No change.  (Well

it went up like 2/100’s)

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On 3/11/2024 at 7:38 PM, jeepwm69 said:

No voltage at all at the coil with the gray plug disconnected on the ECU.

Do this again and let me know

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2 hours ago, Melatv said:

Do this again and let me know

 Everything else plugged in or ?

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this is what you get for working on those stupid 500's !..lol.

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9 hours ago, shadetree said:

this is what you get for working on those stupid 500's !..lol.

My old air cooled, carb’d Foremans are easy to work on!  This EFI “bigger 420” is giving me fits!

 

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11 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

 Everything else plugged in or ?

Yes

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12 hours ago, shadetree said:

this is what you get for working on those stupid 500's !..lol.

 

@bcsman i stand corrected, lol!

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I've never seen a failure inside a harness junction box yet but it's looking like I'm about to. Thanks Mel for jumping in.

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22 hours ago, Melatv said:

Do this again and let me know


No voltage at the coil with that gray plug disconnected.

 

Plugged it back in and coil reads 10.95 V

 

battery reads 12.33v

 

So are y’all thinking this is my problem?

2B0349C6-373C-4293-8DEF-5B42C215C451.jpeg

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I see chewed wires there and other things that would cause the problem -- @retro good to find time to help out.

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20 minutes ago, Melatv said:

I see chewed wires there and other things that would cause the problem -- @retro good to find time to help out.

That was the initial problem was rat chewed wires. I used some of those heat shrink connections with solder in the middle to put the wires back together. Machine ran until the aftermarket coil wire melted on the exhaust.

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I see what you’re talking about now. Green wire gnawed on.  Am I better off snipping those and stripping them back and getting a better connection?

 

i’m fairly certain that the rat damage was done before the coil wire melted 

 

 

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22 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:


No voltage at the coil with that gray plug disconnected.

 

Plugged it back in and coil reads 10.95 V

 

battery reads 12.33v

 

So are y’all thinking this is my problem?

2B0349C6-373C-4293-8DEF-5B42C215C451.jpeg

 

21 hours ago, Melatv said:

I see chewed wires there and other things that would cause the problem -- @retro good to find time to help out.

 

So, zooming in on this pic on my computer at work, much easier to see.   You see the yellow/blue wire that I spliced using one of those heat shrink tubes with solder in the center.  That was a wire that was completely gnawed in two by a rat, which is why the wheeler was originally brought to me.

 

I fixed three such wires, wheeler ran, and I returned it to the woman.  

 

A couple of weeks later she called me back, wheeler was dead again.  I discovered blown ignition fuse, and when I replaced the fuse, the coil smoked and hissed, and I realized the coil wire had melted to and was shorted on the exhaust.  

 

I have not found any more wires gnawed in two, and the woman moved the wheeler from a barn to her carport when I returned it to her the first time.

 

So should I snip. strip, and reconnect the wires that were gnawed but not broken to make sure they have a good connection?   Replace the whole harness?  

 

 

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3 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

 

 

So, zooming in on this pic on my computer at work, much easier to see.   You see the yellow/blue wire that I spliced using one of those heat shrink tubes with solder in the center.  That was a wire that was completely gnawed in two by a rat, which is why the wheeler was originally brought to me.

 

I fixed three such wires, wheeler ran, and I returned it to the woman.  

 

A couple of weeks later she called me back, wheeler was dead again.  I discovered blown ignition fuse, and when I replaced the fuse, the coil smoked and hissed, and I realized the coil wire had melted to and was shorted on the exhaust.  

 

I have not found any more wires gnawed in two, and the woman moved the wheeler from a barn to her carport when I returned it to her the first time.

 

So should I snip. strip, and reconnect the wires that were gnawed but not broken to make sure they have a good connection?   Replace the whole harness?  

 

 

time wise ?..it would be better ( to me anyway ) to just replace the wire harness.

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Hi -- the wires with just the insulation covering just chew off -- use Permatex Liquid Electrical Tape --

 I don't like using those heat shrink tubes with solder in them -- because the wires have to be perfectly clean -- solder the connections tape them good -or use crimped connectors and liquid tape the ends.

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