_Wilson_™ 6,593 Posted October 30, 2020 (edited) 15 hours ago, Goober said: Front wheel bearings have tiny bit of lateral play. Right wheel on outside tire edge has 1/4 in Left wheel on outside tire edge 1/16 in manual doesn’t say — am I missing it? Seems negligible movement but probably deserves replacement on later service might some of this play also be related to upper,many lower ball joints ? any chance the owners has tied these cable snugger to the frame of any other stiff poing ? because both of them acting like this is strange, mostly the hand brake cable is the 1st one to give trouble. or maybe Some other issue going on, sence you have the rear brake cables disconnected... I'd check them that way. agree with fish on the front end play send it . Edited October 30, 2020 by _Wilson_™ 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goober 1,555 Posted November 1, 2020 (edited) Cables on order. Greased front end. Steering feels tighter than it should. Bunched up harnesses at the steering head look like they’re too snug and adds to resistance. Loosened the cable clamps and cleaned them with armor all. I am definitely loosening the steering bushing and regreasing the shaft. Edited November 1, 2020 by Goober 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Wilson_™ 6,593 Posted November 1, 2020 2 hours ago, Goober said: Bunched up harnesses at the steering head look like they’re too snug and adds to resistance. Loosened the cable clamps could be the reason you felt both cables resisting.. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goober 1,555 Posted November 7, 2020 Question! Absolutely for @retro and Jeep possibly others. To regrease the shift motor it calls for Unirex 2 or 3 which is the lithium base. Are there better formulations like the John Deere polyurea? What do you use for ES motor gears? Brakes all adjusted! Yup cables were crushed beyond economical repair ($36 for new). his winch would not work so I narrowed it to the switch. It is an old Superwinch —cable seems hopelessly bound to the drum and the disengagement knob is broken. I replaced all the wiring from an extra winch kit. I’m arranging all the cabling now 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oh400ex 629 Posted November 7, 2020 1 hour ago, Goober said: Question! What do you use for ES motor gears? Surprising no one I use this... https://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tech-Multi-Duty-Complex-Hi-Temp-Grease-14-oz-Tub/16795246 I know it is at least equivalent to the Unirex 2 certifications but haven't compared the 3. Similar stuff with a different label and doesn't practically matter IMO. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,072 Posted November 7, 2020 I don't pay any attention to Honda's outdated recommendations for lubes. You can always better them and you should, especially when prepping ES parts... 'cause they got all of those lube recommendations totally wrong! Since Honda is stuck in 1970s lubes tech everyone of their recommendations can be improved upon. So throw out all lithium formulation candidates, as those bases do not remain stable very long in hot/cold temp cycling environments (Honda motor cases & covers). Any good NLGI #2 synthetic EP grease solves all of Honda's ES lube problems, as it remains stable in extreme (much lower/higher temp maximums) temp swings plus handles much more extreme loading. A one-time Honda ES prep using a good syn grease should last the lifetime of the ATV (or the lifetime of the contaminate seals). 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goober 1,555 Posted November 7, 2020 Ok I’ll get some john deere synthetic—they tell you what’s in their grease. And do it after big game hunting season. Which is next May if you count elk, lion and spring turkey. oh BTW the manual calls for replacement oring, so i gotta get that. Not going through all that work to find a bad seal and not have it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fishfiles 20,147 Posted November 7, 2020 7 hours ago, retro said: I don't pay any attention to Honda's outdated recommendations for lubes. You can always better them and you should, especially when prepping ES parts... 'cause they got all of those lube recommendations totally wrong! Since Honda is stuck in 1970s lubes tech everyone of their recommendations can be improved upon. So throw out all lithium formulation candidates, as those bases do not remain stable very long in hot/cold temp cycling environments (Honda motor cases & covers). Any good NLGI #2 synthetic EP grease solves all of Honda's ES lube problems, as it remains stable in extreme (much lower/higher temp maximums) temp swings plus handles much more extreme loading. A one-time Honda ES prep using a good syn grease should last the lifetime of the ATV (or the lifetime of the contaminate seals). I doubt believe in the codes on top the bottles , I think it is nothing more than a money making thing >>> I think Rotella is the best oil put there , don't believe in the synthetics , waste of money 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Wilson_™ 6,593 Posted November 8, 2020 (edited) i would have to agree, I've used synthetic oils, and greases, from my findings it doesn't hold up as well as conventional lubes. just cost more, with clames of longer machine life, which is BS. bike looks great, gooder, i am curious as to how the brake cable got crushed ... Edited November 8, 2020 by _Wilson_™ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeepwm69 7,736 Posted November 9, 2020 On 11/7/2020 at 5:53 PM, Fishfiles said: I doubt believe in the codes on top the bottles , I think it is nothing more than a money making thing >>> I think Rotella is the best oil put there , don't believe in the synthetics , waste of money I'm not a sucker for the oil hype. If the oil meets the specs, I use it. I do use T6 Rotella instead of the T4. The T6 makes shifting easier, and my engines run cooler (fans don't come on as often). I still change the oil every 500 miles. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites