Gremlin

Well........ @shadetree I did try, but I was very unsuccessful.  The silts around here are somewhat impossible and I needed to get it out of the shop. Lol

I'm struggling a bit getting the carburetor dialed in but the 2x4/4x4 mod worked perfectly!!

4 hours ago, shadetree said:

word from the wise, when you walk away from this kinda work...come back days..weeks...maybe even months ?, you WILL forget where you left off !..lol. always take pics BEFORE you remove a part if you are new at this ??. that cable , bend end, mounts tang side down to the spot at right rear top side of engine, 10mm headed bolt. flat eye attaches to the right frame where all the connectors slide on the tangs. other end attaches to the battery neg post. from battery, red end of harness goes to battery on pos post, then the other end attaches to the starter solenoid, the other side of the starter solenoid post runs to the starter. NEVER WIRE THESE BACKWARDS !.

Thanks @shadetree

Can't say I'm new to it but due to unexpected life crap, it got put on hold for 2 years. Been back at it for about a month, closing in and had a liteteral brain fart.  Took pics of everything, except that bolt down location on the engine....I'll remember that. Hahahaha

And it dawned on me. Lol

Got it!! Lol

Like someone please take a pic or two and refresh me where I bolt this. Lol

Feeling pretty F'n stupid right now but this has been a longggg rebuild. 

Putting wires back together.  Does the starter wire go to the silonoid which goes to positive? Where the heck does the negative from battery go? I'm drawing a total blank. 

She's close.

Can't say thanks enough @jeepwm69

10 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

Well without looking at mine, I can’t be sure, but I’m fairly certain it’s the green plug. 
 

Any idea what year the diff came out of?

 

Orange should be connected to switched 12V (for example, pink wire on ignition switch) and then run white to switch, and other side of switch to ground.

 

 

No, I got it from a parts guy. I'll try to go back through my email and see but was 2 years ago.  If I don't need to worry about ground from the diff no worries then. I'll do a little digging. Thanks!

04-07 model is what it is from. 

On 12/3/2019 at 3:29 PM, jeepwm69 said:

Now to power the diff, one needs a throttle assembly off of an 05-11 Foreman, or 05-14 Rubicon, or 04-07 400AT, or a Rincon.  These contain the factory 2wd/4wd switch.  Wiring the switch is pretty simple.  There is a plug on the side of the 400AT front diff that has a green wire and an orange and white striped wire.  Ground the green wire, and connect the orange and white wire to one of the wires coming off of that 4wd switch.  Connect the other wire on the 4wd switch to a key'd on wire (I used the pink wire on the ignition switch).  This means with the key on, when you activate the switch 12V is sent to the electromagnet in the front diff that puts it in 4wd. 

Hmmm....no green in that bunch. Thoughts @jeepwm69

17 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

The diff will work with 12v, but Retro said it would make the actuator last longer if the minimum voltage required was used. 
 

Maybe @Goober or @Melatv can weigh in since they seem to be good with that type of thing.

Thanks. There are 3 harnesses off the diff and I either can't remember what wires I'm supposed to use....or I just never knew. Lol

So, I am not at the point of trying to wire up the 400at diff. @retro built his own voltage regulator. I kind of forgot I needed something 😅  Is there any type of regulator I can buy on Amazon or somewhere else? Any input be valuable. 

I did do the 420 front knuckle and disc brake swap. Fit very well.

Well, covid brought a long delay in plans woth the quad but finally getting back to it.  Reassembly is in progress!

On 4/10/2020 at 10:15 AM, Fishfiles said:

Got to take care of them Ka'nucks ( spell check ?)  

Canucks but we love the sentiment!!

Please dont judge the welding!! Haha  I only ever took a short night course and the instructor said "you guys will never weld, just stick s&$t together"  It is solid though.

Taking it to clean now, dry fit the front diff and that cut, ugly as it is seems to be perfect.  Painting going well, clearcoat stage. Frame painting next!

25 minutes ago, slowindown said:

I'm really liking those orange a-arms and springs!

 

My honda is an orange 02 rancher 4x4 ES too.

 

 

Thanks!! Hoping she looks sharp.  I have done this with my 250 years ago, painted the underside of the plastics with black rocker guard. Turned out really well.  Going to really help the orange underneath pop! I like the underside dark. 

9 minutes ago, retro said:

Very nice work! Yup, that grease will work fine inside the shift motor, support bearings and gears. I put a ES prep guide up here:

 

https://atvhonda.com/topic/570-how-to-properly-prep-your-honda-es-shift-system/

Thanks @retro!!

So what grease is best. Will this stuff be ok for the es gears? And just a light amount like what was in there or load that sucker up? Lol

Shocks and arms turned out mint!

I am making headway with the frame though at least.  Going to weld the front, bent and cut pipe today. And run another length on both sides near the footpegs where the plow mount was cut off. 

8 minutes ago, retro said:

I don't know if any other shocks interchange or not. The spring wire diameter is too small (springs not stiff enough) to remove those support sleeves, they'll rub on the metal shock body and wear holes in them.

Well shucks. 

7 hours ago, retro said:

 

I would leave those plastic sleeves alone. They hold the long coil springs straight and keep them from rubbing on the shock body. They also keep mud off from the piston shaft seal at the top of the shock body.

Bugger. They really rub inside and figured of the back shock needs no protection the front be ok without too. Is there another model I could upgrade the front shocks with? Like 420 or 4ppex shocks?

Just now, shadetree said:

i dont know the reason for them ?, other than maybe keep dirt and mud off the shock shaft ?. i would at least leave a couple inches at the top.

That's what I thought.  The bronco shock on the back doesn't have anything like that. It is totally exposed. That's what I was thinking, cut it way back. 

Question??

I have the front shocks apart.  The plastic that is in there on the front shocks. Do I NEED that? Can I just trim it up to the top so the ring is still around the top for spacing but leave the shock exposed? The plastic really rubs on the spring and definitely will just rub the paint off. 

Thoughts??

Got a spring compressor (highlifter) used for 30 bucks and finally got the springs apart to paint.  Got time off work for the ol Covid so going to try to go at this rebuild hard in the next few weeks. Still working on the frame. Lol

On 3/6/2020 at 6:11 PM, shadetree said:

please tell me you masked off the rubber mounting bushings ???..lol.

Just for you!! Lol

I picked up a little sandblaster for the hard to reach spots on the frame. It is taking forever but I want to do it proper. It is really solid just alot of work. Lol

And I took the last one for you @shadetree haha

29 minutes ago, shadetree said:

please tell me you masked off the rubber mounting bushings ???..lol.

Hahahahaha!! YES!!!

Still working on the frame but A Arms are getting the orange splash!