AKATV

Were you going to swap pulse gen?, I seem to remember an ohm test years ago and found a few bad ones that way, but don't see ohm measurement / rating in the current manual Just for kicks do you have an ohm reading on it? -AKATV

Pretty unusual if you just changed it, could have maybe been from a pressure washer blowing thru starter o-ring or similar etc

Your oil looks a bit milky there and seem to have clear water drops on your starter gears in the picture-was this a sunk or deep water ATV? -AKATV

Can you check to make sure you have ground signal at the light green/red wire at the CDI with it in neutral (beep/ohm test with multimeter from from frame/neg bat to light green/red wire I would suspect its good if LED comes on, but CDI wont fire without the ground signal so it worth checking make sure pins are good inside as well, might not be touching or pin could be retracted in plug (have you checked IGN fuse?lol) -AKATV

They are most likely good then if they are OEM Honda I wonder if you’re possibly not getting a good ground signal from your gear position switch for neutral to the CDI I know your green neutral light is coming on. Let me look at the wiring diagram and see if there’s a way to ground that wire closer to the CDI or directly at the CDI -AKATV

you can put it on a piece of foil or pie tin with plug facing up open door when done and let cool to touch before moving it

Really should try baking the old one The new one, if its Honda OEM, should not have an issue I would think and I definately would not try putting Amazon China parts in the oven Let us know how it goes -AKATV

EDIT (Sorry I was not clear if you replaced CDI, I now see you had said ignition control module earlier, If you still have original CDI, put it back in and try below) Here ""wack a mole way, but worth a shot Try rapping pretty good on CDI with with handle of screwdriver or similar while cranking, if you get an intermittent spark then you most likely have faulty CDI due to bad/cracked internal solder joints,which is common on the CDI and the fan controller as well (20 years of heat and vibration) If so, you might get away with baking CDI @ 450 for 7-8 minutes Let us know -AKATV

I was kind of thinking the same- might just be a carb thing, as he said it runs fine with choke on and THEN clunks when you take it off choke Could just be struggling to run at low rpm and not clunking/slapping- but "described" sounds are different for everyone, so its hard to tell Might try turning idle up like Jeep said,, check or clean enrichment valve(choke) and make sure rubber boot under top cover of carb is not pinched if it has a throttle response hesitation. -Maybe post a video of it to better interpret sounds/issues -AKATV

Welcome to the forum! What is wrong with your meter exactly, I might be able to repair it for you if it’s not too bad? Can you post a brief description of what it’s doing and a few pictures with it powered up with your headlights turned on so it’s illuminated, if possible? I will send my contact information to your message box as well if you’d like to look into a repair -AKATV

Thanks for the update Obviously, somehow power is is making its way from the red/black constant power over to the brown/black wire power circuit somewhere further down the line on the circuit board, You might want to check the speedometer plug down below just in case there’s something funny going on down there, if not, you could very well have a faulty circuit card/ circuit -AKATV

You might want to double check your key switch to make sure it’s turning power off if so, then it sounds like you might have a short down on your lower speedometer plug possibly You want to check on the back of that circuit card- There’s a red/ black wire, which is a constant power to hold up your clock memory Your other power wire is a Brown/black wire which is your key on power make sure you use the green wire as ground You want to make sure you have constant power at the red/black wire and that you only have power at the brown/black wire when you turn the key on If you find that you have power at the brown/black wire with key off, you might want to check your lower plug to make sure that the pins inside the plug or not water damaged and corroded shorting power down below. Also, keep an eye open while you’re looking around for any hack job wiring, mouse chewing, etc.. Let us know what you find -AKATV

Thanks for the pictures Actually, that’s not in too bad of shape It appears to be functioning normally You do not have anything showing up in the gear position area, but that most likely is a sensor or wiring issue I’m assuming that your buttons work and if your speed is registering properly, then you most likely don’t have any major issues with the circuit card or display I do see some sun damage to the upper polarizing film but since it’s still readable, it’s purely cosmetic If your top plastic cover is cloudy, you can most likely polish it out with an automotive plastic headlight polishing kit they sell them at Walmart and similar for between 10 and $20 and with a little bit of elbow grease I have had many customers get the top covers as clear as new If you have any other questions or need any additional information, just let us know -AKATV

You at least want to open top cover to make sure there is no water damage inside on the circuit board If there is, it just get worse from there as it dries/corrodes and damages the circuit board and components -AKATV

Amazon parts most likely =China garbage, which is going to make headaches for you- guaranteed if that TPS came on an Amazon carb that might be part of your issue Just out of curiosity, is your speed reading correct on the meter? -If not it, will go into limp mode I only asked because you said it was hard to see meter at times, you might want to open the speedo and make sure you dont have water damages in there- if you have flickering LEDs that is a sign for sure Keep us updated -AKATV

Welcome to the forum! The flashing is a code -count the number of flashes and refer to the service manual or post the number here and we can start to identify an area to start -AKATV

Welcome to the forum! I can repair your speedometer, depending on what you have going on with it A few details or pictures would help me see whether it’s repairable or not and what repair it needs. I sent my contact information in reply to the other direct message you sent me -AKATV

You bet, I replied to your other message and sent contact info if you need it Will keep an eye out here for pics! -AKATV

Your in a great place here to get your Foreman 450ES fixed up! Dont forget to download a service manual from our free library Honda makes a great service manual and they covers everything form basic maintenance all the way up to a complete engine tear-down and rebuild I can most likely help you out with your speedometer as well andI will send contact info to your message box if you would like to look into a repair If you have any questions let us know and post some pics of your ATV- we love project pics here! See you around ! -AKATV

Bunny Welcome to the forum! If you strike out with 428SCJ, maybe I can repair the one you have Let us know how you make out and maybe post a few pictures of what you have going on Hope to see you around! -AKATV

Thanks for the kind words Bill It’s nice here on the forum where we can all get together and help sort things out, whether it’s electrical, transmission, or a particular issue with a particular model-it’s great to be able to help each other out. This forum is an incredible knowledge base full of helpful members and I’m glad I can help out from time to time Have a great weekend and I hope to see you around the forum! -AKATV

Welcome to the forum! I received your separate private message and replied to that with my contact information Hope to see you around the forum either way -AKATV

Sure no problem, welcome to the forum! I’ll send my contact information to your message box. -AKATV

I will definitely keep my eyes open for any parts and pieces that would help you out -AKATV

Welcome to the forum Sounds like you’ve been doing some great troubleshooting and as you have probably found out -the red and black wire is your constant power which is your clock hold up, and your brown/black wire is your “key on” power and should power up your CPU and turn your display on Make sure you have 12 V at the red/black wire and the brown/black wire with the key on using your green wire for ground -not only at the plug but on the top side of the board were the pins are soldered If you have it there, you most likely have a CPU going out or gone out on your board and the board will need to be replaced as the CPU chip, It’s not replaceable at least at a cost effective level I will send my contact information to your message box as well -AKATV