AKATV

Welcome to the forum!

What model is your ATV?

Post a few pictures of it powered up if

you can, with headlights on so display is illuminated 

I will send contact information to your message box as well

-AKATV

Welcome to the forum!

if you remove the top cover and take a few pictures on the little bit more about what you have going on

Hard to tell if this point, it could range anything from a simple power issue all the way up to a completely destroyed circuit card from water damage
I’ll send my contact information to your message box as well

-AKATV

Welcome to the forum!

You're in a great place to help get your Rubicon fixed up and running great

Post a few pics when you can -we love pictures!

Hope to see you around,

-AKATV

If you want to remove the top cover,

I can tell you a couple voltages to check

If the voltage are correct, you might have a problem with your circuit card

I sent my direct contact information to your message box as well

-AKATV

Welcome to the forum!

I will send my contact information to your message box

-AKATV 

Welcome to the forum!
I can most likely get you taken care of

Can you tell me if all your LEDs at the top come on like they’re supposed to and the back light works like Jeep mentioned above?

I will send my direct contact information to your message box, if you’d like to look into a repair as well

-AKATV

Hi

Welcome to the forum!

I have sent my contact info to your message box

Hope to see you around!

-AKATV

Thanks for the pictures.

I would definitely say that you have a  power related problem, most likely on the circuit board of the speedometer if it’s not powering up properly,  I can tell you a few things to check with a multimeter if you wanted to remove the top cover of the speedometer when you have time

Also, when you get a chance, see if your speed is reading properly

-AKATV

So it does register speed properly 

when its working?

also, when your meter is working properly the gear position indicator should be flashing a code 

If you have a fault, it’ll blink a number of times, do you see it doing this?

-AKATV

The speed signal is routed through the speedometer and goes to to the ECU.

If ECU does not see the speed signal, it will shut down shifting and put it in limp mode

-until you turn it off and then back on again until it detects the fault again

Kevin, when you say meter is not working what exactly is it not doing?

 ie - not powering up, not registering speed, burned out display, etc..

A few pictures would help a lot with it powered up and headlights turned on so the meters back-light is on, if you can

-AKATV

You could have big problems with that screen broken out like that

Probably best to remove the top cover and see if you have any water damage to the circuit card

I can most likely repair it for you, but if you need a new circuit card it’s not a cheap repair

Let me know what you find and I will send my contact information to your message box

-AKATV

Glad to hear that you got it running better
Sounds like most of your problems were just

fuel / carburetor related

A weak battery wont really cause the issues that you were having with running, but the ES systems definitely need to have a good battery in place for proper operation as far as electronics and shifting, etc.

Glad to hear you have a service manual coming, just so you know, we have a pretty much full digital library where are you could have downloaded it for free.

You can see the link at the top of the homepage.

If you need any more help or have any other questions, just let us know

-AKATV

Shade I think what you’re seeing are just enlarged  reflections of the top of the Allen head bolts in the shiny oil on the inside edge of the flywheel-  it looks like a gouge, but it’s just a reflection

-AKATV

Is this an ES or foot shift?

Might just need to pop clutch cover off and put the bolt back in the star wheel on the shift drum, common to come loose

Yes the generator, stator and flywheel sit in oil bath, they all do on most wheelers

Like I said ohms test is not in manual I think it was like 330 or something, I think it used to be in the foreman 350, or the 300 manual or similar years back?

 I will have to look at one in the shed, I never had proper peak voiltage tester, but never really needed one in 30+ years, I  always just swapped it out and tested with another known good one

-AKATV

Were you going to swap pulse gen?, I seem to remember an ohm test years ago and found a few bad ones that way, but don't see ohm measurement / rating in the current manual

Just for kicks do you have an ohm reading on it?

-AKATV

Pretty unusual if you just changed it, could have maybe been from a pressure washer blowing thru starter o-ring or similar etc

Your oil looks a bit milky there and seem to have clear water drops on your starter gears in the picture-was this a sunk or deep water ATV?

-AKATV

Can you check to make sure you have ground signal at the light green/red wire at the CDI with it in neutral

(beep/ohm test with multimeter from from frame/neg bat to light green/red wire

I would suspect its good if LED comes on, but CDI wont fire without the ground signal so it worth checking

make sure pins are good inside as well, might not be touching or pin could be retracted in plug

(have you checked IGN fuse?lol)

-AKATV

They are most likely good then if they are OEM Honda
I wonder if you’re possibly not getting a good ground signal from your gear position switch for neutral to the CDI

I know your green neutral light is coming on. Let me look at the wiring diagram and see if there’s a way to ground that wire closer to the CDI or directly at the CDI

-AKATV

you can put it on a piece of foil or pie tin with plug facing up

open door when done and let cool to touch before moving it

Really should try baking the old one

The new one, if its Honda  OEM, should not have an issue I would think

and I definately would not try putting Amazon China parts in the oven

Let us know how it goes

-AKATV

EDIT

(Sorry I was not clear if you replaced CDI, I now see you had said ignition control module earlier,

If you still have original CDI, put it back in and try below)

Here ""wack a mole way, but worth a shot

Try rapping pretty good on CDI with with handle of screwdriver or similar  while cranking, if you get an intermittent spark then you most likely have faulty CDI due to bad/cracked internal solder joints,which is common on the CDI and the fan controller as well (20 years of heat and vibration)

 If so, you might get away with baking CDI @ 450 for 7-8 minutes

Let us know

-AKATV

I was kind of thinking the same- might just be a carb thing, as he said it runs fine with choke on and THEN clunks when you take it off choke

Could just be struggling to run at low rpm and not clunking/slapping- but "described" sounds are different for everyone, so its hard to tell

Might try turning idle up like Jeep said,, check or clean enrichment valve(choke) and make sure rubber boot under top cover of carb is not pinched if

it has a throttle response hesitation.

-Maybe post a video of it to better interpret sounds/issues

-AKATV

Welcome to the forum!
What is wrong with your meter exactly, I might be able to repair it for you if it’s not too bad?

Can you post a brief description of what it’s doing and a few pictures with it powered up with your headlights turned on so it’s illuminated, if possible? 
I will send my contact information to your message box as well if you’d like to look into a repair

-AKATV 

Thanks for the update
Obviously, somehow power is  is making its way from the red/black constant power over to the brown/black wire  power circuit somewhere further down the line on the circuit board, 

You might want to check the speedometer plug down below just in case there’s something funny going on down there, if not, you could very well have a faulty circuit card/ circuit

-AKATV