shadetree

44 minutes ago, Kevron said:

Hey guys , occasionally I run into rusted, rounded bolts or nuts that have to come out. Most times on a tank door or a flange that you can’t cut the bolt with an electric tool because of sparks. I have used nut busters with some success but today I had to cut 8 hardened bolt heads with a hacksaw! Just wanted to know if y’all know of any tool that could be used in this situation. Thanks 

you must not be working on an atv ?..lol. as for getting those bolts out that is near..guessing here , a gas tank ?..yeah..i'd have to study that long and hard. but as for getting them to move ?, yep...good ole bfh, and a cold chisel works every time when you can't get anything else on it.

9 hours ago, cdyoder said:

I think your right. I wish I didn't have to spend the money, but oh well. I'm pretty sure I picked up the most wore out fourwheeler ever. I did find you can buy the whole dif used a little cheaper then just the actuator. If it wasn't too hard I'd try to tackle rebuilding the actuator, but sounds you might need special tools too.

said it once...will say it again...DO NOT TRY TO TAKE THAT APART !!.. you better listen to what i'm saying ..lol.

4 hours ago, Mach 1 said:

Oh heck, figured on ESP no clutch, there is an adjustment??? I changed out the motor in front.

you maybe right on that model !, i'm so used to old school manual shifts..lol. i don't know if that model has an adjustable clutch or not now that you bring it up ?!.

2 hours ago, BC-Buck said:

Might be buying brand new bike if can make deal happen. Will be going buy great place to try out on way home. Wont have time to read manual first so clue me in. Thinking no more than 3/4 throttle and fluctuate rpm for first 10 hours. Sound about right?

just baby the throttle for about 3-4 hrs ?..this is all you need. don't run it like you are drag racing !..lol. it being brand new, any warranty will cover repairs. most of us here ( myself included ) will never own any honda atv this new ?..lol. some of us don't like payments !!..rofl.

did you try adjusting the clutch at all ?. if the clutch is out of adjustment..as in...worn friction disk ?..this also can give you shifting issues.

6 minutes ago, cdyoder said:

You can buy just the actuator too on ebay without buying the whole dif. That should fix my problem correct?

yes..if you can buy just the actuator ?..but i've never seen many sold this way...they normally do not separate the front diff.

4 hours ago, cdyoder said:

I got the actuator off. How do I know if this is bad or not? I see two loose rings inside . The gear going into the dif looks fine

lol...well..its deff bad...or you would have a working front diff..lol. i'd say that thing is toast.

5 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

 

My guess is you have a pinion bearing that's gone south then.

 

Once you start looking at replacing parts on these front diffs, the cost of new parts gets up there pretty quickly.

 

You can pull the front diff forward, remove front driveshaft, and then unbolt the actuator and pry it off the back of the front diff for inspection.

 

Depending on what you find, I think you'll find you're better off buying a used complete front diff with actuator and speed sensors than trying to replace that actuator alone.

 

05-11 Foreman footshift and ES, 05-14 Rubicon, and  Rincon front diffs should work.  The only differences in any of those is male/female plugs differ from year to year, and it's simple enough to either buy a pigtail from Honda or cut/splice the wires to correct.

 

Let us know what you find.

i have never bothered to check ?, but is it posb for a front diff ( drive shaft input part )  from a 450fm into his 500 ?. prob the ring gear may be diff ?..but i bet the pinion shaft, the front part that he has out..may swap out ?..they all work the same way.

4 hours ago, cdyoder said:

I've found a couple small pieces in there but mostly like an oily grease

don't bother trying to take this thing apart !..its a royal pain in the rear to service..been there..done that..lol. better off locating a good front diff. most front diff's used will not be seperated from this part you have in this pic ^^, this means you will need to buy the whole front diff.

2 hours ago, _Wilson_™ said:

May Impact user data plans ? Uh huh…. 

prob texting while driving, or had the phone stuck to their face ?..lol.

1 hour ago, Mach 1 said:

Where do we send donations? Who do we write a check too? I'd like to chip in, consider payment for help with my past issue and if anyone can tell me how to remove rear rack. My thought is I know how much a Honda shop charges for work, doesn't seem unreasonable if you get info here to fix your machine, send a check per incident..I'm figuring $50 a pop, so if someone can post rear rack removal on 2010 420, I'm good for $100, just need more info on who and where to send and I will let my accountant figure out how it can be a tax deduction 🤑 

most rear racks on any honda atv are held on with a few bolts, and fenders screws. two at the back on each side, two left, two right. left side, above , behind top of muffler. right rear side, above, behind top of tire, back of frame. then you will have a screw that goes from under the bottom back of each side of rear fender, it screws into the bottom of the backside of the rack, 10mm heads on them. you will also have to forward legs on the rear rack, they stick down through the rear fender,each side of the battery box, they have a bolt that attaches the leg to the frame under the rack. you can easly reach these bolts from above the rear tires on each side. most of these bolts are either 12mm or 14mm heads on them. sooo..3 large bolts on rack legs, then 1 smaller bolt through the fender from the back bottom, going up into the rear tabs on the rack on each bottom side of rear fender and rack.

8 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

The front diff has an electromagnet on the back.  When you hit the switch, the electromagnet is supplied with 12V and connects the rear input of the front diff to the rest of the diff. 

 

Not common for a front diff to fail without making a lot of racket while moving, so much more likely it's stripped splines on the front driveshaft.  If your front driveshaft is good, we'll try jumping 12V to the front diff actuator next.

 

It's very quiet when actuated, just a faint click, and IIRC the engine has to be running to put it in 4wd, so not something you'd hear with the engine running.

you never mentioned anything about the speed sensors grasshopper !...lol.

word from the wise: unless you put the engine in gear , and put the front into 4wd ?, the front diff will never work !. i found this out the hard way on an older trx450fm !. i did the same thing you are doing..light on dash would light up, but no movement on front diff ?..after buying a control unit..plugging it in ?..same problem !. it was by accident that i was able to see why the front diff was not working ?..i was checking out the transmission , to make sure it shifted through all the gears ?, low and behold, the front 4wd light stayed lit..no flashing, and the front end was working !. sooo..in other words..the atv has to be in gear..like ..1st ?, turn switch from 2wd to 4wd..then watch to see if the front end works ?. also..keep in mind..most of these atvs that have a electronic front diff, they have not 1 ?, but 2 speed sensors !. this is how the front diff works !. sooo..until you put the atv in gear..and the front output drive shaft is spinning ?, the first speed sensor at the front side, input side of the diff can not see any movement on the drive shafts pinion gear ?, sooo..the electronic part of the pinion gear will not engage from pinion gear to ring gear. the second speed sensor is on the very front, top side of the diff..right on the middle of the differential,  its covered by a metal plate cover, same goes for the first speed sensor at the drive shaft input side, left side when viewing from seat.

8 minutes ago, honda said:

So does it need to be oem fuel line cause it looks like it only comes in quite long lengths and is fairly expensive. Also the oem primer bulb is expensive tho amazon has some off brand ones for a lower price. As you said it doesn't really get used anyways so an off brand one should work eh?

Another question, the two hoses that come up out of the carb, then join together and end up in the white plastic piece in front of the carb, two of those hoses have cracks in them where they clip on to the Y piece. Is that an issue? It doesn't look like they do a lot since they end out in the open. Could the cracked sections simply be clipped off and reattached?

Thanks a lot for taking time to help

 

save your money, go to AutoZone, O'Reilly's, napa, any one of these places sell fuel line, normally when i replace fuel lines on atvs..or any engine for this matter ?, i buy fuel injection rated fuel lines from autozone, it's not cheap by the foot ?, but its cheaper than wasting cash with honda !..lol. may as well grab some small hose clamps while your there..they are easier to install than those stupid clamps honda uses. as for those cracked lines ?, they are just carb vent lines, not much to worry about when re-attaching them. myself ?, i always remove them..toss them in the trash, why ?..because i do not ride in any kind of deep water, mud..so forth. soo..i do not worry about anything getting into the carb. only time this may..or may not be an issue for me ?..is when i wash my atvs down with a water hose..pressure washer ?..but even then .i try to keep the water away from the carb.

18 hours ago, Hailstatedogs said:

I’ve got a 2007 400 EX I purchased from an individual several years ago and have been slowly rebuilding it.  The engine was seized up when I bought it and I found out later that several of the gears were stripped out of the transmission.  Needless to say, the engine was completely dismantled.  Replaced three gears in the transmission and crank bearings in the bottom end.  Had the crank checked out and it was surprisingly in good shape.  Took the oil pump apart, cleaned it well and made sure it functioned as it should.  Of course the cylinder was bored and a new piston and rings installed.  The timing chain didn’t look bad but replaced it anyhow.  Got the head torqued down to spec in a cross pattern.  Got it set to TDC and placed the cam lobes down toward the head with the marks on the cam sprocket set correctly.  Torqued the valve cover to spec in a cross pattern and then proceeded to replace the tappet screws.  That’s when things went bad.  Set the gaps on the intake side with no problem and then the exhaust on the left side.  Then I got to the right side and the problem showed up.  There is absolutely no play even without a tappet screw.  I pulled out all the other tappets and removed the valve cover for an inspection.  From what I can see, everything looks fine and doesn’t appear to be bent.  As soon as I tried to put the valve cover back on, the right exhaust valve clearance was completely gone by the time the valve cover bolts were hand tight.  I can take a foreman engine apart from top to bottom with no problems and have rebuilt numerous ones, but this is my first time with an overhead cam and I have absolutely no idea what could be wrong.  Guess it doesn’t help that the engine was seized when I got it so I don’t have a good baseline of what I was dealing with to start with.  Don’t know if I screwed up or if it was already in that condition.  Any help would be greatly appreciated!

my first thought is..did you inspect the cam lobes for any odd wear ?. did you remove the valves..and see if any of them are bent ?. did you inspect for any wear in the cam journals in the head ?. rebuilding an engine takes more than just tossing parts at it ?, YOU MUST INSPECT EVERYTHING WHEN TAKING IT APART ?,,AND PUTTING IT BACK TOGETHER !. last but not least for now..did you insspect the rocker faces on the rockers for any wear ?. take a jump back into this, then get back to us.

22 hours ago, TBRider said:

At your age shade an electric saw would be better for you to handle.

what good is an ele saw going to do in the middle of no where ?, and second..do you really think a ele saw is going to cut a 12-18 inch tree up fairly easy ?..lol. lastly...just how dang old do you think i am..90 ?..rofl. anyway, i've got a 14 inch dewalt battery ( 20v ) pole saw, comes in really handy when needing to reach high limbs in the way, love it !.

8 hours ago, honda said:

I have a 2000 trx450 that's losing fuel from somewhere on the carb. Hard to tell exactly where since the whole thing was covered in fuel when I found this problem. When I wiggled the fuel line, there was gas oozing out of where it connects to the carb. That seems slightly abnormal to me but maybe that is how it works all the time? What would be the issue there, is the fuel line worn out or is the clip not holding it on properly? Also, the little black knob underneath the fuel line was leaking gas when I pressed it in. I dont know what it does but that doesn't seem like it's working either... Any thoughts? Thanks

its posb the fuel line needs replacing. as for the black knob ?, thats a primer bulb, i never use it, its worthless, but they do leak over time. it will need replacing as well.

2 hours ago, M_goerler said:

Would the bypass kit work around the brain box for the shifter?

no clue..i don't mess with stock settings, not to mention..i will never own an es model for this very reason !..lol.

2 hours ago, M_goerler said:

I got the repair manual and yes I can shift it by hand where do I look in the repair manual?

in the trouble shooting section.

update: my new saw mcculloch, 16 inch, 35cc, case, bottle of oil, manual, open box, never ran ( hasn't either..i checked it after i took it out of the box )..arrived here today !. some habits are hard to break ?.mine is using a known well made product, and it to me..is like a mercury, and McCulloch that is made in heaven !..lol. here is a couple pic right out of the box. if and when the weather gets better around here ( and at the deer camp )..i'll take this baby down there to start clearing some more tree's where i left off when my other saws bit the dust.

3 minutes ago, M_goerler said:

OK guys this rancher is missing me off now it won't shift no flashing on dash what do I do?checked switch its good and power going to ecu  how do I check the rest?

you can down load the service manual from the site here, start there. also, try using the emergency shifter tool, see if you can shift it that way ?..if you can ?, then this points you to a ele shift issue.

3 hours ago, Infinitysurf said:

I will do that for sure. Haven't looked at the details yet in service manual but I think to split the case & remove the internal transmission parts like shift drum, etc I gotta remove front/rear covers as well as remove the 2 front clutches anyway.

Went ahead and got the quad stripped down so as soon as I have the time its ready to open up front cover and then likely remove the engine. Will take up less space stripped down anyway so I have room to work on the other quads in the meantime. Figured I would post the 1st couple pics tho of it mostly stripped down.

If it comes down too pulling the engine which seems likely, might as well do some prep work and paint the frame in some areas it is starting to rust and at least stop the deterioration from getting worse. Thank goodness I got this thing cheap! 

lol..they come cheap sometimes..but in the end...the cost adds up fast !..lol.

19 minutes ago, M_goerler said:

Well I do know how to work on them some things I don't know but I can rebuild them no problem and I know you got to check oil often if you go in deep water and if it turns like milk don't run in until you change oil

you can change the oil a million times if you want ?. but..its not the water in the oil that you should worry about ? ( it is..and it isn't )..its the fine sand, grit in other words, that you should worry about !. you will not see this with the naked eye !!!, once this gets inside the engine, its going to eat your rings, your cylinder wall, and a lot of other metal parts. but hey, i've only torn down a few thousand engines...30 plus yrs doing this..i have no idea what i'm talking about../s. you go for it..more power to ya..least we know who around here has deep pockets huh ?..lol.

1 hour ago, Infinitysurf said:

 

I just went out to garage and with key on and engine off I shifted up & down thru all the gears multiple times while gently rocking the quad forward/back. Nice, fast, positive gear changes every time and also every time when it goes into 4th gear the quad is not locked into the gear and will freely roll forward/reverse. So I gotta assume that you guys are 100% right and the only option is just to split the case and carefully check everything in there, gotta be something wrong at internally with the drum or a shifting fork.

 

I will 100% tear this down tho it may take me a little while to tear that deep into this one since I have several other machines to finish putting together now that I have repaired the misc problems they had since I know they will run right and I want to get my daughters out riding. Those machines were all running decent initially but had sat for long periods before I bought them and had not been maintained well so needed the bearings replaced in the swingarms & steering stem shaft, the front brakes needed to be re-built, rear brake and some of the cables were seized up and needed to be replaced, I cleaned the gas tanks/carbs etc. Was hoping this one would not be extensive but its not looking that way now. Guess the bright side is after doing this I will know the entire Recon system inside & out.

 

Once I get going on this project I will be sure to come back to this thread and post pics & updates as I go along.

BEFORE you pull the engine?!, like you said, pull front cover, and have a look at the star shifter thingy attached to the front of the shift drum, you may luck out, and have an issue right there somewhere?. ALWAYS START WITH THE SMALL STUFF FIRST, BEFORE YOU DIG IN DEEP !..LOL.

i'm gonna agree with jeep ^^ ( mark this down , underline it..cuz it does not happen very often !..lol )..sounds like a worn shift drum ?..or a bad shift fork ?. either way, the engine will need to be removed..and split.