shadetree

1 hour ago, bigcountry78 said:

Out of curiosity, what is a common 12” rear tire size? Thinking about selling the mud lites and 11” rear rims, but looking to the future for replacement tires, what would be a common tire size? 24x10-12 to match the 24x8-12 fronts? I’ll probably just stay with 25’s from now on, but just curious.

 

 

12's are mostly common. i run 24x8x12 , and 24x10x12 on both of my atvs, one is a 1989 trx350D foreman, it calls for 24x9x11 all the way around ?, BUT !, i made and installed front disk brakes on it, in order to run disk brakes , you must have 12 inch rims in order for the calipers to clear the rims. soooo..now when i need tires on my '03 trx450fm ?, i can run the rims and tires off my '89 trx350D !. both have foreman rims and tires on them.

2 hours ago, Big John said:

I bought a shop manual and it has a chart giving what resistance you should get across certain terminals. I can get no reading at all, across any of them. They all read open.
How does heating the cdi box up affect a solid state device, or fix it?

it melts the soldier on the circuit board inside the c.d.i. , least, thats what they say ?..lol. you can try tapping on the c.d.i. while cranking it over to see if you get spark ?. try removing spark plug and boot, snip off about 1/4 of the wire, screw boot back on, plug back in, see if you get spark ?.

2 hours ago, Big John said:

Not sure what you are referring to as the 'kill switch', but the neutral light comes on. It has a key, so why would it also have a kill switch?

most all honda's have a kill switch. left handle bars, on light switch, red knob looking thing, these have to be centered in order to fire. yes..they have a key switch ?, but they also have the kill switch on light switch.

10 hours ago, Big John said:

aftermarket Carb I ordered is junk. No surprise from what I have read. Just noticed there is also no spark. Tested out all the components, and in attempting to test the CDI, I get no reading across any of the terminals whatsoever. It ran when I bought it, so I find it really odd that the CDI would be bad all of the sudden.
In looking online, the aftermarket ones seem to have a BAD history of not working at all, and the OEM CDI is $200.
If I were certain this is the issue, that would be one thing, but it worked for 40 years and then it just broke when I brought it home???
Really regretting buying this pos at this time. Might as well have thrown money down a garbage disposal.......

make sure you have a neutral light !!!, if you don't ?..it won't fire the spark plug !. check the kill switch on handle bars, make sure its centered ?, and check for voltage across the switch.

11 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

Eh, had a few leftover parts.   Kinda hard to tell where they go from the schematics too.

 

@shadetree you got any ideas?

 

I have the neutral contact assembly om the middle, which is under this schematic, 21 and 22.

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/atv/1985/trx125-a-fourtrax-125/left-crankcase-cover-alternator-sub-transmission-cover

the "PLATE, STARTING GEAR SETTING", which is under this schematic, hard to tell exactly where it goes though.

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/atv/1985/trx125-a-fourtrax-125/left-spacer-cover

and a couple of unknown bits here.

 

Anyone tell me where these things go? I already have the spacer cover in place, and I think I'm going to have to pull that back off to get that neutral switch in there. I took a couple of pics and can't see where that "plate, starting gear setting" goes in any of the pics I took. The bush was on my bench, and no idea on that one either. The washer/shim looking thing says "out side" on it, and I'm honestly not even sure it was part of this TRX125.

Gotta love it when you tear down an unfamiliar engine and leave it on the bench for a couple of months.

 

that bent metal thing is for the electric starter area, nothing to do with the gear box area. the large bushing is normally inside the clutch basket from the backside over the shaft, inside clutch basket. the washer is always on the very outside of either the clutch basket ?, or the centrifugal clutch under the staked nut. i'm not sure you removed these ? ( you may have to split engine ? ), but they always go on other engines when you remove both clutches on larger atvs. the center bolt looking thing, i'm not sure about that part ?. but i will study the fich and see if i can see where it goes.

30 minutes ago, Dastevoe said:

Thanks, just picked up the angle sensor and haven't installed yet. Can't seem to find the clutch adjustment nut. Going to check out link you posted 
Thanks

the adjustment nut is on the front cover, 14mm.

11 hours ago, Crutch174 said:

Thanks, I was trying to save a couple of bucks, but in the long run it's costing more !

and that my friend, is how it gets you every time !..folks want to save a few bucks, when in the long run, it always..ALWAYS ENDS UP COSTING THEM MORE MONEY AND TIME !.

5 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

Try without first.   If it acts like it's running lean get a programmer.

 

I did one on my wife's 09 DCT Rancher.  I put a Weisco programmer on with the top end, but I honestly think it would have run fine without it.

 

Didn't make much of a difference at all over the stock 420 cylinder.  Not worth doing unless your original 420 cylinder is gone too far to be bored oversize again.

 

I was curious as to the 520 top end, but you have to either turn down the outside of the bottom of the cylinder (Reduction Boss sells those ready to bolt on) or grind the cases a little to clear the bigger jug. 

 

I've gotten away from 420's and am sticking with the older machines, so never got around to the 520 swap.

 

 

it truly boggles my one brain cell, trying to figure out why atv owners who ride an utility atv, want to '' get that one extra hp '' ?!..lol. you can only get so much from these machines, after that..its all over but the crying. soo..bottom line: don't bother trying to get 100 hp from an engine that is designed to give you 10 hp..lol.

17 minutes ago, Crutch174 said:

01 Forman Rubicon 500, had coolant in oil, so I tore it down, the cam lobes where chewed up picked up a used one, cam chain was also garbage, water pump bearing was toast. So while in there I replaced the rings, got it all back together and runs good, except I forgot to check the head if it's warped! Needless to say coolant is seeping out on the lowest side of head when running. So what's a good head gasket? I used a after market one

oem all the way, stay far...far away from any after market parts, when you can get oem. if and when it comes time where we can't get oem anymore ?, then i will use china junk ( we won't have a choice ), until then, i will use oem all the way !. just ask jeep69 what he went through awhile back when he tried using a after market head gasket ?!!..lol.

i always use the correct top end parts. is there a reason you are not using the correct top end parts for the correct engine ?. can't answer your lean question ?, as i don't gamble on something i know nothing about..lol.

21 hours ago, Moose said:

I found those grounding points.  I tested them with an Ohm meter and they all seem good.  I went back to my gear position switch connector to see if I could find a ground in any gear and nothing.  I guess I will have to go back into the rear crank case to see what has happened?  The switch I installed was new in the bag from Japan.

if and when you get the rear case back off to get to the neutral switch. MAKE SURE YOU INSTALLED THE SWITCH CORRECTLY !. by this, i mean the switch must be installed back into the shift drum the right way ?, or..you will have it out of alignment. get the cover back off, take a look at the switch, the shaft has a roll pin stuck through it, this roll pin has to have the longer end directly over the rasied letter N that is stamped on the top of the switch. brown plastic part where the wires are at. look for the letter N stamped into the topside of it, now rotate the longer end of the roll pin where its right over/facing the letter N. now install it back on the engine, MAKING SURE THE ROLL PIN GUIDES INTO THE SLOT IN THE END OF THE SHIFT DRUM.

49 minutes ago, Kyle9076 said:

It’s a 4x4. Is there anything else to mention?  I appreciate the help. I tried to look up the parts diagram but couldn’t get anywhere. 

there should be a sticker somewhere on the frame under the front fender, it will read something like trx420fm-with maybe some letters after the fm. the round connector in your first pic is normally wired into the main harness, if this is the case ?, you will have to buy a whole wire harness to solvet this issue.

31 minutes ago, Kyle9076 said:

Sorry. 2022 TRX420 foot pedal shifter 

thanks, but we need the FULL make/model, 2wd ?, 4wd ?. i see its a '22, and its a trx420 manual shift, but this does not narrow it down to the exact model, there is a ton of these listed to look up.

16 hours ago, bee said:

just picked up recently  installed  new battery  and have no power anywhere checked fuses ok no ignition or lights is there a master fuse or something i should look for ?

 

under handle bars in the front, black plastic part, should have a lid on it ?, open it, under it is the main fuses.on some of these models, there is a tall rubber boot near the battery it has a red wire going in, red wire going out, open the cap, easyly pull the holder out of the boot, inside this boot is what looks like a tiny wrench ?, this is a fuse ( don't ask me why honda made these like this !..lol ). not all trx250's have this fuse, but some do.

6 hours ago, ATC4ever said:

Sounds silly but, any chance the batt is reversed? Can you use the pull cord to get it going with the key on?

these models do not have a pull cord, ele and kick start only.

welcome dastevoe.

5 hours ago, Dastevoe said:

Hey guys, I have a 2009 TRX420ES with 1500kms on it and it has recently developed a shifting issue. When I try to shift from N to 1st all it does is "click" at the transmission as it is trying to go into gear. It will shift into reverse but not up. If I feather the throttle and try to shift at the same time sometimes it will engage and can drive normally (or so I think). Is this a angle sensor issue ?

Thanks

Steve

it could be the angle sensor ?, it also can be a bad shift motor ?, i've seen these problems alot. i have even seen the shift motor magnets come apart inside the shift motor. last but not least..you may have a loose bolt on the end of the shift drum ?. only way to get to this is remove the front cover.

7 hours ago, Mach 1 said:

Yea I looked up there website and legit dealer, $291 with tax shipped free, thanks for input Meltav, makes sense that pcm should trigger pulse to coil based on CPS ( thinking new form of timing ), can see how computer could send continuous signal that quickly overheats coil and overwhelming heat sink mounting points. Just weird how intial issue was fuse, once fuse stop blowing part failure cascaded from there, this ECM is last component to replace with OEM..one last thing, is the CDI on our machines built into the PCM? I see early models CDI in front below handlebars? Also, when new PCM arrives, is it a plug and go or will it require some kind of weird reset procedure turning key and throttle, etc.???

most elec shift machines have the c.d.i. part built into the pcm, all the older manual shift machines have a fan control and c.d.i. seperate unlike the ele shift's do.

35 minutes ago, Kyle9076 said:

This is located in the battery box. (Mice got in) Can someone please help me identify this part so that I can order it or look into a fix? Thanks

can you tell us the make/model of your atv plz.

27 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

Honda East Toledo?  I used to buy all my stuff from them.  Rocky Mountain ATV and Motosport seem to be cheaper and have free shipping over $75

over 300 from rmatv..i checked..lol.

3 minutes ago, AKATV said:

Thank you for trying, shadetree

I just cut the end off the muffler and spent the day creating some baffles out of sheet metal and just got it all put back together works great

Welding is functional, not too good to look at

“A grinder and paint makes me the welder I ain’t”

-AKATV

lol...some times..we gotta do..what we gotta do to make it work !. glad ya got it going !.

52 minutes ago, bcsman said:

Gee whiz shade there wasnt any warning this was possibly gonna happen???

nope, never heard a word of it until this morning.

welp, this story just keeps on getting better !. got a call from the lease owner this morning, he said pot latch sold the land where all our deer stands sit ?..aghhh !!!. sooo, now all of us must go down and move our stands, we have 30 days to get our stands moved, this just flat out sucks !. will update later when i get my stand moved to new place..and figure out how the heck i'm gonna get it moved ?..( in one piece that is ! ).

1 hour ago, Mach 1 said:

Going to order this one..New, All numbers on unit match mine except for 6 digits after the 6901 that I'm not worried about since top row dead match, $292 with tax 😞

you are gonna regret not buying from honda...NEVER...EVER..TRUST ANYTHING FROM AMAZON !. when the part numbers don't match for anything honda ?, this tells me its after market, but hey..its yer cash and time..lol.

just got off the phone with my bud, the 400 i was thinking of does not have a muffler on it, sorry.