shadetree

As some of ya'll know, i've came into a couple golden machines ?!. i call them big john, and little john. they are a kwik-way boring bar machines. they are very very old and very very rare to find them , let alone that works ?!. ok..little john works, but needs some shadetree touch to it ?..lol. big john does very well !. i had to bore out a cylinder that came on this stupid trx300ex to a 74.45mm piston. i did get it bored out with the old cutter that came with it, but i did break down and purchase two new cutting tips to go into the holders. one is a rough cut, the other is a fine cut. with some practice, i'll get to make some cash on the side from doing bor jobs, sounds boring eh ?..lol. really though...its getting harder and harder to locate folks that can bore cylinders, let alone cheap, and fast ?. i will not be sending my cylinders out any longer to get bored out. here is a pic of big john, and little john i took today when i was working on this trx300ex.

16 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

New wiring harness installed this morning.  Got everything plugged in, no change.  
 

Same exact voltage drop at the ignition fuse once I put the fuse in, but reads full battery voltage on the battery side of that fuse’s spot with the fuse removed.

 

The only thing I can think now is the ECU is bad.  
 

I hate that this poor woman is going to be out $400+ for a coil, harness, and ECU, but at least now she’ll have a non-rat chewed ECU.

 

@AKATV @Melatv @retro have any of you opened up one of these newer ECU’s?  I’m just curious if we get 20 years down the road if these things will all end up as junk due to a lack of availability, especially on oddball models like the 12-13 Foreman 

man..you must really love these 500's to go through this much trouble !!..lol. i'm sooo glad i don't work on those 500's anymore...spec the stupid es models !..lol.

5 hours ago, Igetby said:

Not alot! Lol i’d have max around 400-500 I could put into her. Shes driving me mad because she sounds so good at idle. Little noisy with rpms.. if only she sounded as good warm as she does cold… is there any chance it could be “normal” or something minor causing it? Since it sounds fine before shes warmed up? Another couple vids here one of it just idling after I turned idle down a bit.  Other of it when I rev it… sounds much worse in video but its still noticeable in person. What does it sound most like in your opinion shadetree? 

IMG_5110.mov IMG_5109.mov

sounds like a rod knock too me.

9 minutes ago, Igetby said:

Hey everyone. So really nice weather has popped in this weekend.. i’ve got a strip job right above my house and a wife thats been waiting 6+ months on a ride…. You guys think i’d be pushing my luck to take it for a easy going 5-15 mile ride before getting into the tear down? I have a buddy who says his sounds just like mine and has for the past year .. being quiet as can be until it warms up then sounds like mine after reaching operating temps.. Has me thinking I might be able to get another small ride in… i know its a gamble but.. no smoke / no loss of power or issues aside from the chatter/pecking… would it get worse then how bad it sounds now before something let go.. or does it sound about as bad as it gets already? I know its a gamble and not ideal.. but it is a Honda 😅 thoughts?

ok...how much money do you have on hand ?, i ask for the simple reason: if you end up doing more damage to it from this ride ?, its going to cost you a lot more money to fix all the extra parts you may end up doing.

lol...and ,mine would be the '03...lol. its cool though..i got a couple spares on stand by.

2 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

Yeah the part number is the footguard

yep..after i posted, i went back when i seen it was the foot splash guard he's after.

6 hours ago, Fat Tire said:

Thanks for the tips.  I checked both of them and they both show this part as being on backorder.

i just looked, not sure what make/model you looked up ?, but rocky mountain atv has these in stock. unless you are after the foot guards ?.

27 minutes ago, Igetby said:

Thanks everyone!! Loved catching up on all the comments. appreciate each one too. Feel much more confident knowing theres great support here for any questions or issues I may run into along the way. I’ve long dreaded the day I may have bottom end work to do but looking forward to the experience now.. knowing its gotta be done! Hoping to get time to start on the tear down this weekend!! 

keep us posted !..we got yer back !.

20 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

 

I miss the days of cheap parts from PSN.  They still sell good stuff, but they aren't the bargain that they used to be.

 

A few years back I got a 350D rear diff from them for $100.  Inside looked new, but the ring gear bearings were seized from lack of use.  I took it apart, soaked those bearings in oil and then rotated them back and forth and that diff was as good as new.

yeah..psn is no longer selling parts cheap !.

20 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

 

I looked and the last two he did for me he charged $135 each for labor and return shipping.

 

So a rod at $120, plus $135 labor, is $255 including return shipping for a rebuilt "new" crank with zero wear on it.

 

Cheapest 450 crank on ebay that isn't listed as "for parts or not working" is $250 plus tax (so $275 for me), and then you have a used crank with wear for the same price.

 

New is no longer available for the 450's, so rebuild is the only option to get a "new" crank

 

Those 05-11 cranks are $700+ now for a new one.  You can get a Hot Rods crank (Taiwan) new but they're $500, so it saves a ton of money on that model getting Vince to do it vs buying another crank.

 

But yeah, you figure out how to rebuild cranks and you know you have a customer LOL

nope, hot rod cranks was bought out by '' all balls '', and as you should know by now ?, '' all balls '' is china !. i will never use hot rod crank kits again.

19 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

 

Call vince at Mr crankshaft.  He can rebuild your crank much cheaper than a new crank, and buying a used one chances are you'll get another worn out crank.  Rod will run you $120ish (not sure if his current price list is accurate) and about another $100-125 for labor and return shipping.   His turnaround is usually under a week, and he does great work.

 

http://www.mrcrankshaft.com/

 

 

The top end of the connecting rod where the wrist pin goes is usually what wears out, so he installs a new connecting rod (Vesrah, made in Japan, excellent quality) and trues the crank.   He will also remove that rear crank bearing that always comes out when you remove the crank, and if it's good you can reuse it, and if not, you can order a new bearing.   Very difficult to press a crank in with the bearing on the crank.   You press the bearing into the rear case, then the crank into the bearing.

 

Here's a thread I did on a 500 engine with some pics.   There are minor differences in the 450 and 500, but for the most part they are laid out the same, so won't be bad for reference. 

 

 

I use a 3 jaw puller on the centrifugal clutch.   If it slips off the clutch bell I use several long hose clamps linked together to hold the puller arms against the clutch bell.   You will need a flywheel puller, and the $10ish motion pro on ebay work fine for that.

 

Like Shade said, DID timing chain.  Don't buy a cheap one or you'll be tearing the engine back down.

 

You can remove the top end and inspect the cylinder, piston, and end of the connecting rod without pulling the whole engine.   My guess is they slapped a new chinese top end on a worn out connecting rod and that worn rod caused rapid wear on the new cylinder.

 

Since you have flakes in your oil, the safe long term fix is to pull engine, tear it all the way down and clean it up, and then reassemble with whatever new parts are needed.  Then you know what you have and know it's ok.

i looked at mrcrank's website, his prices are very high compared to used or new cranks ?. but, as he already has found out, the 400-450 cranks are not around, so this leaves him with a used crank, new rod if needed ?. when i built the 450 for my gal's son, i got a used crank from powersports nation ( been a few yrs now ) for 25 bucks shipped !. he still runs/rides it today, still doing well. maybe one of these days i'll learn how to replace connecting rods ?..lol.

with a little time, lots of money, you can have it turn out like this one i built.

10 hours ago, Igetby said:

I looked online and was unable to find any for the 450 foreman - the bearings your referring to fit on the crank its-self or in the case? I noticed a crank on ebay had the bearing included..? But only one that I seen.. is that the bearing your referring to? If not I can probably look up a part number. I’ll have to order me a good manual. The online one I found involves too much scrolling on a phone! Thanks again for your help and sharing the wisdom!

yeah..the bearings go on the crank you see in this pic, it takes two,i highly advise you to order two new bearings for this crank if you buy it ?. you will need a bearing puller to get this old bearing off of this crank , or..you can use a chisle and hammer to wrok it off ?. BE SURE THIS CRANK ROD AT THE TOP IS GOOD B4 YOU BUY IT ?!. it may need to have the rod replaced as well ?, if this is the case ?, do not buy it.

if you end up buying a new crank ?..don't forget to get 2 crank bearings while yer at it !.

motor will need to come out of frame, and split the motor.

29 minutes ago, Igetby said:

Thanks shadetree! Really appreciate your input and all the info!! If its a bad spot at top of the rod or bad bearings.. Is this something easy to replace? I felt with my lack of expertise it may be easier just to replace the entire crankshaft if theres any major imperfections..? honestly I wouldnt know what to look for other than obvious signs of impact / bends / play.. I dont worry so much about the top end as i’ve had just enough experience to be comfortable in that area.. and 400/450 lower end parts are the same, right? .. noticed the part number seems to be the same for 400/450s and es crank..  love the pic / video idea also as that was one of my biggest concerns and reasons for wanting to order ahead of time.. forgetting where stuff goes! … I think the bottom end kit I have ready to order has all seals and gaskets.. or I hope so!  Attaching pic just incase theres anything missing.. also.. i’ve heard the shift drum should always be replaced while in there..? Its not too costly but dont wana replace something if it isn’t necessary. 

moose used to be good..until china bought them out, i use nothing but oem honda parts if i can get them ?. do it once..cry once..buy china parts ?, you will hate it later !. if the top of the rod is bad ?, yes..new crank..yes..400/450 uses the same crank. you will need the cam chain too !..i only buy D.I.D. cam chains.

least its not a can am !..lol.

4 hours ago, Tacoma88 said:

Hey guys I have a ? I’ve been looking for a pen cdi and cooling fan control unit and found a guy on eBay selling one and selling a cdi too but the cooling fan control box is off a 86 and the cdi is off a 87 and I have a 88 do you guys think it will still work for mine ?

nope...what ever parts you locate ?..THE PARTS MUST BE FOR A '88 !.

well...as you pointed out, it deff needs some inspection !. the best way i can tell you is, rip the engine out, go through it, this way..you will know what is wrong ?, what needs replacing ?, and the best part is: you get to learn how they not only come apart ?, but go back together too !..lol. you deff will need a flywheel puller tool, DO NOT SKIMP ON THIS TOOL !. once you get the engine out, then go through it, have a look at all the parts you remove. TAKE PLENTY OF PICS AS YOU TEAR IT DOWN !. this helps when time to put it back together. you will need a complete engine gasket kit stay far away from china crap !. oem is best !!. replace all the oil seals, replace the cam chain ( D.I.D.) IS VERY GOOD !. yes..you may need a new crank ?, but !!..until you get it torn down ?, this is hard to say ?!. count on a new piston maybe ?, boring out the cylinder maybe ?, this means a piston kit to a larger size piston if you can have it bored out/up ?. with a service manual, and us ?..we can guide you pretty much all the way. plan on new engine oil made for wet clutches !, oem oil filter. as to what can be wrong with it right now ?, well..if the person you bought it from just did a top end on it ?, chances are, they did not swap put the crank ?, and the crank has a bad spot ( worn out ) at the top of the connecting rod ?, or could be bad lower rod bearings ?. as you can see by now, there is really no way of knowing..UNTIL YOU RIP IT OUT, AND APART !. but be ready to order parts !..you will need them. some you can order now..others you will not know until its apart.

3 hours ago, Green Bay Mike said:

I have a 2010 rancher that runs great then all of a sudden shuts down. Flashing dash on display where gear position is displayed. Turn switch off then on and no sound from fuel pump. It will turn over, but wont start. Cannot shift gears. After about 3-5 minuets all is normal and it starts and runs great. Does this sporadically. Please help.

the flashing is code for trouble codes. the service manual will tell you what the code stands for. count the quick flashes, it will pause, then continue with the last part of the code.

48 minutes ago, Crutch174 said:

Thanks guys, I use to be a mechanic at a Honda shop and quit in 01, my brother in-law got this quid from the same shop before I left and know it's mine lol. The only pictures I have so far, my nephew's must of hit a tree the center was a v when I got it, so I made this bumper when I installed the winch, will share some more pics when I get it back together, got the top end apart.

oh look...it's ole yeller !..lol. this an automatic/es ?..or manual shift ?..i'd rather not mess with auto's and es's..they..well...suck !..lol. and for the record ? : there is not such thing as free ?, trust me..one way or another...its gonna cost you to ride it !!..lol.

3 hours ago, TBRider said:

Hola

bout time you got back here !..lol.

16 minutes ago, Bman said:

Turns out I have the high lifter kit. Though I'm pretty sure it's still mostly Arctic cat components. 

yrs ago, high lifter was made in usa, NOT ANYMORE !. superlift was, and still is, made in china. i use nothing but high lifter, have had really good luck with them, then again..i don't ride my brakes like most do ?!..lol.

17 minutes ago, shrek18 said:

So the long awaited update is here. The Foreman is out of my shop and back on the farm. Thanks to the help of ol Mr RTV himself aka Shade tree 🤣, the machine is FIXED!!! It was a process and I had all but given up but Shade talked me off the ledge. I ended up taking that rear engine cover off and replaced the Ignition spark generator or the pick up coil inside the case. That was the part keeping us from getting spark. I did keep the CDI/ ICM I replaced on along with the new voltage regulator and coil. After some issues with the neutral switch and having to remove and install the rear cover (a total of 5 times...)🤷‍♂️🤦‍♂️ I got the unit back together today and ran it. I let it idle for 10 min which it couldn't do prior and took it for a 1 mile ride with no issues. Im happy to say its all fixed up and its back to pushing feed for dairy cows. I want to say as a newbie to the site here, it was quite refreshing to talk to people who knew their stuff and pointed me in the right direction. I definitely look forward to being a member here and I greatly appreciate the help from Shade and the others!! Thanks again

glad i could help you !!. yes..do stay around...we need more rtv folks ?!...right...rofl. on a side note: shrek18 here located me a craftsman air compressor ( really needed just the tank ) here in arkansas on marketplace, i got off fakebook awhile back, in order to use marketplace, you have to be a member of fakebook?, which i am not. had to drive to dardnelle,ar. to get it ?, but was well worth the 100 bucks !!, even ran too !..lol. a big thank you to shrek18 for saving me a ton on cash for not having to buy a new air compressor.

36 minutes ago, JamesL said:

 I have a 2004 TRX500fa Rubicon with a broken meter, can it be repaired? the neutral light comes on and the headlight works? Thanks

calling @AKATV.