shadetree
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Posts posted by shadetree
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5 minutes ago, Holmesy89 said:Hi and thanks, I’ve picked up a 2007 trx 420fm as a first Honda atv plan is to do a few bits too it to get it 100% and maybe upgrade to a newer foreman
your welcome. those trx420's are not too bad ?..spec if they are manual shifts..but they do have known issues that pop up from time to time. almost every trx420fm i have worked on or seen ?, the crank rod always fails. other than this, and a few small issues ?.they are ok. as for a newer foreman ?..yeah...just no..no new atv is made like they were 20-30 yrs ago. save your cash, invest into an old dog that needs another life, easier on the wallet.
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was out at my buds place today, stumbled ( and i mean i tripped over it for real ! ) an old atc250R lower engine ( its red..lol ). its just the lower engine part, i know it from heart its a atc250R engine, and i also know these baby's are very very rare today !. i should have taken some pics ?, but i did not have time to drag it out, and snap some pics...too busy messing with this trx300ex junk in my shop. if anyone has an interest in this 250r lower ?, give me a holler, i'll get some pics posted when i can find some time ( yeah..like that will happen ! ).
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welcome to the forums, what ya ride right now ?. if it needs work ?, be sure to post a thread in the correct section, and someone will be along to lend a few words of wisdom.
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5 hours ago, M_goerler said:Hey I think is this cam tell me what you think?
if you are asking if the cam is ok ?, i can't tell by this pic ^^. but i can tell you, left side is lobe side, right side is bottom of cam lobe, not where the rockers ride.
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4 hours ago, M_goerler said:So I think the cam is the problem but can't get head bolts out to check it any ideas???
if you are worried about stripping the bolts out ?..or worse..snapping them off ?..grab yourself a hammer impact driver, 1/2 is best, slap a socket on it, use a hammer while twisting , smack it loose, this works well for stuck bolts as well as stuck nuts.
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7 hours ago, bigcountry78 said:lol I’ll bet not. No it has the hydrostatic transmission. It’s nice to have, just have to make sure you use low range whenever you’re pulling anything. I just wish I had a trailer big enough to haul it, my trailer is a 6x12 single axle. I don’t feel like it’s quite big enough.
mines hydro as well, thats the part i had to fix !..and it was rough pulling it part by myself..but i did it. and yes..i am by myself as well when busting tire beads down. i do not use a board, i simply drive straight at the tire, then get my truck tire next to the rim center, then turn my truck tire around the center rim bead, pops the bead every time. maybe you need a chevy tire ?..lol.
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while rocking atv...push the foot lever down..keep pushing the foot lever down..until you can roll the atv back and forth with ease ?..this will be neutral.
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14 minutes ago, MeGoose said:it wont roll forward while in gear.
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35 minutes ago, MeGoose said:Hi,
I'm no where near you guys down in Arkansas. I'm way up north from you guys. March has been nice, but there will be some snow tomorrow. I much appreciate the offer though, I'd like to get this quad to shift in all the gears, find neutral and reverse. 🙂
ok, first off..the engine does not have to run in order to shift through all the gears !, you can ( or should be able too ! ) shift through all 5 forward gears, and reverse with the engine not running. if you can not do this ?, then this tells me you have issues going on with either the shift drum ?, or the ratchet paw area behind the front cover ?. DO NOT MESS WITH THE CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT FOR NOW !!!. you can remove the front cover, i do not remember if the front cover can be pulled without the front drive shaft being moved out of the way ?, its been a min sense i worked on one..lol. if you can get the front cover off without removing the front drive shaft ?..then pull the front cover. ( make sure you have an oem gasket on hand to replace the gasket that you will tear up when doing this ! ) if you do not want to drain the oil ?..you can however get the front end up pretty high, and still get the front cover off without losing oil. if you plan on replacing the engine oil anyway , with a new oil filter ?, just drain the oil then. once the front cover is off, you will need to inspect the lower right hand side ( you..at front...facing engine ), down on right hand lower side is the shifting parts you are after, there is a few parts right there that you need to get too. sometimes you can get to them without removing the change clutch ? ( clutch basket ), other times...this change clutch must come out in order to get to the shifting parts right there. i would pull the change clutch if it were me doing this. chances are anyway..those friction disk are worn out ?, now would be a great time to replace them !.
If you do not see any bad parts with the shift parts right there ? ( service manual is a life savor ! )..then the worse has came to light...you will need to pull the engine, split the engine..and have a peek inside the engine to see what is wrong with the shift drum, and all those parts that make it shift gears. YES..I KNOW YOU DID NOT WANT TO HEAR THIS !!..but the real deal is...THIS MUST BE DONE !. if you have to go this route ?, then be warned, now is a good time to get a whole complete engine gasket kit, this means all gaskets, all oil seals, a D.I.D. cam chain. now yer gonna say '' why do i need all this '' ?..simple..YOU ARE TEARING IT ALL THE WAY DOWN..NOW IS THE TIME TO GIVE IT ANOTHER 30 PLUS YRS TO RUN !.
last but not least, you say you are not an atv mechanic ?..well guess what bro ?,,30 plus yrs ago..NEITHER WAS I !!..LOL. we all have to learn..and hands on learning is priceless !. i've been where you are right now, i've been down that road..many..many times, hrs, days, weeks, months, yrs. never once seen a class room to learn this trade. you either save money, do it yourself ?..or..you pay someone else to make money to fix something you can do yourself..IF YOU PUT YOUR MIND TO IT !..JUST ASK BCS, he was just like you, but as of right now..with our help on here..he now knows how to work on them !.
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as for breaking down tire beads ?..lol..well..i've been doing this for many yrs. i always use my front tire on my truck. i will drive my truck tire up onto the tire..then carefully mind you !..work the front tire right next to the wheel bead, all i need to do is get a gap ( i noticed you had this gap when you had the board on the bead with your truck tire )..once you get a gap ?, spray some wd-40 ( this is my go-2 lube )..into the gap...or..you can use some dawn liquid soap in the gap. the trick is keep spinning the wheel..each and every time i drive my truck tire up to the wheel bead..all while working the truck tire right next to the wheel bead. i back off..spin wheel..drive back on. this has worked for me many times. the worst time i ever had was breaking down the oem tires on my '89 trx350D way back when i first restored it...took me about 1 1/2 hrs on each rim to get the bead broke down !. mind you..these were the oem tires that were on it from the time it left the factory, and never have been replaced, they were soooo rusted on the rim bead...is why it took me so long to get the bead broke down. if the rim lip is bent ? ( like i see in your last pic ) clamp some vise grips on the bent part, simply pull the bend back out. when re-mounting tires back on the wheel ?, grease both sides of the tire bead, as well as grease the wheel bead from about 2 inches from the lip..inwards, this makes it sooo much easier for the tire bead to expand ?, AND...THE GREASE WILL MAKE IT EASIER FOR THE TIRE TO NOT ONLY SEAT THE BEAD ?..BUT ALSO KEEP IT FROM RUSTING IN THE FUTURE !. 30 plus yrs of doing this kinda work...i've learned a few tricks of the trade to make my work easier.
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23 hours ago, bigcountry78 said:Success boys and girls. After parking my truck on this tire for another 24 hours, I was able to get the beads busted. These 589’s are no joke, and jeez they’re heavy. Got the second one broken down and spent some
time on both rims with a drill and wire wheel. Managed to get my shirt wrapped up in the wire wheel. Sorry, no pictures of that, I was too busy cleaning my shorts out. Anyway, after the wire wheel I hit both beads with some emory cloth to smooth them out. I’m hoping my effort pays off and the beads don’t leak. The front tires seem to be holding air so far so we’ll see. In my opinion Bridgestone is an upper tier tire so I hope these will hold up well. My only real complaint with the mud lites is that I couldn’t get the dang things to hold air. While I had it up I took the axle housing off and greased the bearing in the tube. Now I just gotta get some plasti dip and get the rims all one color. But at least it’s down on all 4 paws. And on a positive note, I’m getting pretty dang handy with a set of tire irons lol.
i see my brother's tractor in the background ?!..lol..i've got the b2100 model, brought it back from the dead all on my own, never worked on them until a couple yrs back, that auto tranny cost a good penny in parts !!. some jb weld, some sanding, long hrs !!..and it runs and drives..love it.
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23 hours ago, MeGoose said:I'm still around. We're in need of some much warmer weather to start anything more serious than cleaning it thoroughly and fixing wires. Even if that particular bolt is loose in the trans, I've no real idea what else to look for that maybe worn, bad etc. At least it's in the garage and dry.
not sure if its been asked ?, where are you located ?, if yer close to arkansas ?, load that puppy up, bring it to me, i'll fix it, you will have to pay for parts if and when needed ?, but i will not charge you labor !.
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On 3/16/2024 at 5:38 PM, MeGoose said:This one however is not a "reproduction" :
https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/11394-HM7-003
We are gathering information still and continue to fix the little issues it has. Not ready to do the other larger issue just yet.
do not buy from partzilla !!..their prices are too high !..buy from rocky mountain atv !
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16 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:
i'd like to see the package..i dont trust anything on ebay... read further down in ad..it clearly says reproduction !..lol.
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3 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:So, zooming in on this pic on my computer at work, much easier to see. You see the yellow/blue wire that I spliced using one of those heat shrink tubes with solder in the center. That was a wire that was completely gnawed in two by a rat, which is why the wheeler was originally brought to me.
I fixed three such wires, wheeler ran, and I returned it to the woman.
A couple of weeks later she called me back, wheeler was dead again. I discovered blown ignition fuse, and when I replaced the fuse, the coil smoked and hissed, and I realized the coil wire had melted to and was shorted on the exhaust.
I have not found any more wires gnawed in two, and the woman moved the wheeler from a barn to her carport when I returned it to her the first time.
So should I snip. strip, and reconnect the wires that were gnawed but not broken to make sure they have a good connection? Replace the whole harness?
time wise ?..it would be better ( to me anyway ) to just replace the wire harness.
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22 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:lets get your shifting fixed and then we can focus on the neutral switch
this is after market gasket,,,made in china...lol.
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1 hour ago, MeGoose said:Maybe not terrible but maybe a bit daunting as I/we are not mechanics. The guy in the video replaced the gasket. Do you know by chance where I can locate one? The other thing is, once it's open, I won't be able to tell if there is anything else broken/not right by looking at it.
As for the other sensor under the alternator cover, the neutral/reverse safety switch, right? I couldn't find any helpful videos on youtube for the 1998 Honda Foreman 400 foot shift I have.
before you go removing the front cover ?..THERE IS NOTHING BEHIND THE FRONT COVER THAT IS STOPPING IT FROM SHIFTING THROUGH THE GEARS AS FAR AS THE CLUTCH GOES !. you can down load the service manual for your atv from the site here for free.
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6 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:Well this is @basfnb's, so I ordered one off of ebay. I have two of these in the yard, but didn't want to tear down an engine for a $30 part (got the whole input shaft with all the gears).
And the afternarket cylinders, pistons, rings, etc have all dried up for these! Hopefully it's temporary, but it's all unavailable now! Nuts! Gaskets are no problem, but the others bits are unobtainium.
yeah, just did a quick search on ebay, no std rings, couple over size though. even checked my honey hole web site, they had 3rd size over rings.
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19 minutes ago, MeGoose said:When I push the red button and pull the handlebar lever, down underneath where the end of that cable goes under a yoke to engage the lever, the lever attached to the case only moves about an eighth of an inch. I can move this lever on the case at least one and a half inches by hand, how much should the cable/lever move when I pull the lever on the handle bar?
The other question I have is, there is a nut/flathead screw adjustment that can be made to adjust the clutch. Do I turn the screw counter clockwise till it stops, then a quarter turn clockwise then set that position with the nut holding the set screw in place till the nut is secure? What adjustment to the clutch does this make?
the reverse lever at back of motor should move about 1/2-5/8 in order to shift to reverse. you got the right plan on how to adjust the clutch, BUT !!..this has no effect on why it won't shift through all gears !
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5 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:Found the shifting problem.
Spinning the transmission on the bench was catching in either direction.
Transmission gear on the input side of the transmission.
you got that shaft ?, i bet i know where you can find one !..lol. as for the rings ?, a simple ebay search will locate aftermarket rings, been there..done that. you can get the whole cylinder, topend gaskets, rings, piston ( aftermarket ) to fit this atv. yes..i know its china aftermarket ?!. but when it comes to old parts that are no longer around ?, you have no choice but to bite the bullet, and do what ya gotta do to make it work.
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On 3/7/2024 at 9:20 AM, jeepwm69 said:Been plugging away on the gaskets on this thing. Nothing like rock hard 40 year old gaskets to make you want to toss the whole project in the lake. These early Honda engines have gaskets on EVERYTHING too. No Hondabond anywhere, all paper gaskets.
I probably have 4-5 hours just in gasket scraping on this engine. You can see the pile of gasket bits from this morning up next to the ratchet.
The rings I had to order from Australia should be here today. Apparently pistons and rings for these 125's have become impossible to find. I've noticed piston supply for even common engines hasn't really come back post-covid. Seems the 125's are pretty much unobtanium now, which stinks because I have two of them out back and am worried I won't be able to get rings for them when the time comes.
So, while we're on the subject, any "tricks of the trade" for these ancient, rock hard gaskets?
not sure how many times i've told you ?, but a bench grinder with a wire wheel is what i use along with a razor blade, my trusty old pocket knife is how i get the old gasket off the parts.
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13 hours ago, MeGoose said:So I should have all forward gears, correct? It should start in any gear?
The neutral mod just bypasses the switch and not allowing it to go into reverse? because it can't actually get into neutral.....
Are there any cable adjustments to make for reverse? The cable at the bottom of the engine. How about the clutch adjustment nut on the front?
yes, you should have all forward gears, starting in gear has nothing to do with it starting in gear right now, this starting in gear as it is right now is something stupid folks do to start it in gear. honda makes them with a neutral switch for safety reason..THEY DO NOT WANT YOU..OR A CHILD ?!..TO START THEM IN GEAR !..this keeps some kid from getting on it, cranking it up, throttle stuck wide open, and they take off !..lol. NO the neutral switch has nothing to do with why it will not go into reverse !. button on left front brake lever, you have to press it down, pull the brake lever in, then down shift the foot lever with your foot, this puts the atv into reverse. IF !!..the transmission is working right ?!. yes there is a cable adjustment for the reverse cable on left front brake lever, but if you are not pressing the red button, then pulling lever ?,it will not let you shift to reverse.
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you are welcome to join the chat room ( top of home page )..we can run it by you in there if ya get stumped ?.
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16 minutes ago, MeGoose said:Hi
It does start in gear and the neutral green light is always on. There is a forward gear, however no reverse. Where is the neutral switch? Per the online manual - inside the alternator?
as long as its grounded like it is ?..yes the neutral light will always stay lit. yes..the switch is inside the rear engine cover that is over the flywheel, stator.
Please help
in Engine - Drivetrain
Posted
answer: take some 220 sand paper, wd-40, lightly !!..sand back and forth over the vin number plate, all you are doing is taking the top coat off the metal. there is 17 digits in the vin number. once you get the top coat of rust/crud off the top of the plate ?, use a magnifier to read the vin number. this '' should '' let you get the number off the plate, i've done this many times on very bad , rusted vin number plates.