shadetree

2 minutes ago, AKATV said:

Thanks shade 

I have asked around, I was just gonna gut this one and rebuild it, but the endcap is pretty smashed

Let me know either way and if it’s not cost-effective to ship, I’ll see if I can find one up here

-AKATV

 

will do. if the end cap is just dented in ?, easy fix, cut it off just in front of the weld seam, hammer the dent back out, weld it back on, done a many of mufflers like this.

30 minutes ago, AKATV said:

Looking for a muffler for an older Foreman 400

Let me know what you have and what you want for it

-AKATV

 

 

it's gonna cost you more in shipping, than what the muffler will cost..lol. trying to get ahold of my bud, he has a trx400fm frame, checking to see if it has the muffler on it ?, will let ya know when i find out. did you check with power sports nation yet ?.

1 hour ago, jeepwm69 said:

was $200 for a used one!

yikes !.

not mine, i just fixed it, well..the best i could seeing how the owner is a cheap s.o.b. , lol. top end, new starter, new battery, rear brakes back together, front brakes work, he's asking $ 1,500.00 as is, cash only. no, i will not ship !. pick up on your dime..lol.

ya know...if all you over weight folks would go on a diet ?, you would not need better shocks ?!..lol.

15 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

It was the ECU.  Got a used one from PSN today and it fired right up. 
 

Gotta get everything put back together and get it out of the yard. 

of course..the most high dollar part there is..lol ( unless you buy used anyway )..lol.

3 hours ago, BigAxeJack said:

It look like quite the process to split the motor, like a full tear down, but I’m willing to try. What other preventative maintenance do you recommend while I have the case open? The machine runs and shifts well. 
 

I plan to get an engine gasket kit, assuming one is available. It looks like I need a special tool to pull the flywheel, but just basic tools for the rest. 
 

What advice can you gurus offer?

advice is free...parts are not !..lol. first off, complete engine gasket kit. tube of yamabond ( for where there is no gaskets ONLY ! ). all engine oil seals, D.I.D. cam chain is what i install in all my builds. 3 qrts of atv oil, oil filter, spark plug. air filter. only spec tools you will need: valve spring compressor ( if you do not have one ? ). flywheel puller, centrifugal clutch puller tool. a seal puller ( but not really needed, but works easier than prying seals out with a screwdriver ). service manual for sure !!. have your camera ( cell phone ) on hand to take lots and lots of tear down pics, before, during, after. this way, if you get stumped?, you can always go back, look at pics to see where that thrust washer goes ?..lol. if it were me ? ( i know its not..lol )..i would replace the main crank bearings while you have it torn down, yes..its extra money, but i would do this now, and be worry free for a few more yrs !. a good metric socket set, brass hammer, pry bars, air compressor, air impact gun ( 1/2 ), deep impact sockets, you will need 27mm, 24mm, 22mm, here and there. you can never have enough impact sockets !. some cases, you will need a 30mm, 29mm, 28mm. these come in handy for the hub nuts. not needed, but handy..A PARTS WASHER !. this comes in very handy to rinse out the cases once you get it all part, yes..i go that extra mile when i build my engines. if you get stumped ?, we are always here to help !, myself..i also do phone support..lol.

2 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

Timing chain while you’re in there. DID or OEM only. 
Clean the crap out of everything.

A cheap motion pro flywheel puller from Ebay will work fine.  3 jaw puller for the centrifugal clutch 

you do know...they also sell a centrifugal clutch puller tool...right ?..lol. i use a large bolt, fine threads to pull my flywheels, then i use the correct clutch puller tool. some are larger than others.

lol...2001 trx350 rancher..not sure if its manual shift or es though ?..but deff a '01 350 rancher.

9 minutes ago, WonderMonkey said:

My ES is too dang reliable and I find myself with extra time on my hands, time that others seem to use working on their machines.  For us ES owners, what do we do with that extra time?

 

Please and Thank You.

WM
ES Owner

yeah..hard pass.

24 minutes ago, Aroch314 said:

This is a first for me, I picked up a rancher 350 today, which the knowledge on the ranchers they started in 2000-2004 (I believe was the last year) and they replaced the fourtrax 300. Well according to the vin it’s claiming to be a 1996! Anyone had this occur? Everything looks too smooth and right for it to be vin plate swapped. Anyone know of manufacture faults? 

a pic is worth a thousand words, post a pic, then we can tell you what you have.

5 hours ago, BigAxeJack said:

Copy that. Thanks for the wisdom!

 

Regarding the front diff, I’m assuming I’ll only need to replace that female splined coupling (and seals, bearings, etc) if the R&P are good. 
 

Regarding the final drive shaft, is the oil seal you refer to the one through which the front final passes? 

yes, oil seal right there on front cover where the final shaft comes through. you do not have to pull the engine to replace this seal ?..but..you do have to pull engine, split it, in order to replace the final shaft.

3 hours ago, Mrdaviemac said:

shadetree

Problem solved! Went up a size in the main jet and it has really given the thing a kick in the pants! Plug nice and brown now, runs much better. Pulls all the way to the top. It's not about making it super fast, just livening it up a little, which it has done. Not sure about the USA/Canada spec 450's but the UK ones are notorious for popping back. So much so that gamekeepers and hunters avoid them! Maybe it's a bigger issue with the UK Hondas. But all good now.

glad ya got it solved !. most atv's here in tthe states are made lean from the factory, we can thank the epa for this..lol.

little tip: the trx400fm and the early trx450S ( '98-'01  trx450S ) , both use the same front differentials.

On 4/14/2024 at 7:20 AM, Mrdaviemac said:

Ok. Topic covered many times before, but does anyone have a solution for throttle off backfire on 2004 450s? Dynojet kit fitted, K and N air filter and brand new genuine carb fitted, recent new genuine muffler. Seems to be running pretty good, plug colour good. Carb adjusted as per Dynojet instructions and tweeked until set as per workshop manual. Any solutions?

solution ?..yeah...but it back to all stock ?..lol. i don't mess with all that fancy crap, all it does is give you trouble !, ( as you are finding out ). there is not one thing that is going to make a utility atv go faster, not even all those after market parts you put on it. other than this info ?, i have no idea ?, as said..i do not waste my time with after market gimics.

On 4/15/2024 at 9:43 AM, NB Floyd said:

Took a quick look at the bike this morning. 
 

The 4x4 light did not flash with engine off and key on.  Did not try with it running.  
 

I saw the speed sensor on top of the diff , and a elec connection at the drive shaft input. 
 

The wire at the drive shaft input was pulled out of place and under strain , I routed it back under the shield.   Hopefully that helps. 
 

is there a 4x4 actuator in / on the front diff , is that what the 4x4 switch controls ?

 

thanks !

 

NBF

yes, the sensor where you adjusted the connection, that is where the speed sensor is. as stated, be sure to check the pinion collar splines for being stripped ?.

1 hour ago, BigAxeJack said:

Hi folks, thanks in advance for reading. I have a 1995 400 Foreman and the front propeller shaft is worn to the point of failure. 
 

I’ve seen used ones available and I plan to replace the shaft & drive collar. 
 

My question is: how bad do the splines on the front differential and transmission output shafts look? They are definitely more worn at the contact surfaces than at the “shoulders”. 

In your experience, would you R&R the propeller shaft and ride? Or would you look to replace the front diff (coupling or entire unit)? What about the tranny shaft?

 

I can provide more & better pictures if needed.

 

Thanks for looking!

front final shaft is shot, time to replace. may as well open up the front diff, have a look at the ring gear, and all the bearings. keep in mind, you should replace all 3 oil seals while you are rebuilding it. word of caution !, the final shaft, in order to replace it ?, the engine has to come out, engine split in order to replace the final shaft. replace that oil seal right there in the front cover also.

welcome...what...you don't like the million mile marker ?..rofl. yes..honda came out with some kinda gadget, never seen it or used it ?..that kills the power to the meter...as the meter drains the battery. i'm not sure how it does it with the key off ?..but it does do it.

6 hours ago, Leed1315 said:

My brother got a 91 300 Honda 4wd from the original owner. The man had only used it around the farm since he had it and had put it up and ended up nearly giving it to my brother. It will start right up with no motor noise or ticking. I don't feel like its revs a quick and strong as it should be but it usually runs fairly well for a few minutes and then starts to sputter and act like its not getting fuel. I think he had someone put a cheap carb on it then brought it back to the Honda shop and had the original one put back on it and acts like no change. I have seen similar stuff on others before so I checked the voltage and its good and watched the spark with an inline spark tester and never seen it go away. The petcock is giving a steady stream of fuel. At this point I don't believe it is not spark related. I'm leaning towards carb even though the Honda shop had it. I also remember that the choke needle is different lengths on some years and it crossed my mind that if it was the wrong one and not sealing like it should it could cause similar issues. Other than that the possibility of a valve issue. I I've seen a few carbs over the years that you just couldn't get right. Something was stuck in there and no matter how much it was cleaned it just wouldn't do right. I do ATV salvage so I've messed with a lot of stuff and probably have  a carb I can clean and put on it. I'm not an expert on the older Hondas though and I know there are some common things on certain machines that can be machine specific and very simple but overlooked when you aren't familiar with them. Other than going into the carb is there anything that you might recommend?

won't hurt to check the gas cap ?!..lol...lots of folks leave the knob on top of the gas cap in the off position. if its off ?..fuel won't vent to the carb. if ya get the old oem carb back ?, pull the top off (4 screws ) check the rubber piece under it for any holes/tears ?. if ya can get it to idle ?, take a can of propane ( DO NOT LIGHT IT ! )..just get some gas around the intake boot...if it idles up when you do this ?..you have a cracked, or not sealing intake boot. dirty air filter ?, clogged oem snorkel ?. 

10 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

 

Yeah I'm jelly too.   I want to see them in action!

haha..you know where i live, bring the cylinders and pistons you bought for them, and that over size you said you were gonna get for that trx500fm..and i can do them while you wait, oh...and bring lots of cash !..rofl.

yeah..remove the air box and carb, will make it tons easier to get the stator cover off. hopefully you removed the pull starter cage ?..lol. MAKE SURE YOU GOT EVERY BOLT OUT BEFORE YOU GO TAPPING ON THAT COVER TO REMOVE IT !..check it a millon times if ya have too ??!!. there is always a hidden bolt hiding..lol.

2 hours ago, Igetby said:

Ahh makes sense. & that sucks! That they cant be replaced.. i’ve tried looking up the one way bearing but only find the one im assuming is for the starter clutch / reduction gear..? Thats not the one-way your referring to is it? Sorry for all the questions throughout this thread.. soaking it all up like a sponge and have so many questions I have to hold back on with each post 😂 I know the manual and hands on will answer most. 

there is also a one-way bearing behind the centrifugal clutch, so you have one in front, and one in the back behind the flywheel. most times engine braking is controlled by the centrifugal clutch one-way bearing. i do not know if they still sell heads for your make/model ?, you can look it up on rmatv, or check power sports nation for a used head ?, they stand behind used parts.

if its making a rattle noise when engine braking ?, this tells me one of the one-way bearings may be bad ?..they wear out over time. as for the bad valve guide ?, you can not tell if its bad just by looking at it ?..it does not show !. i ran across this yrs ago with a trx350 rancher, early model. they left the factory with defective heads is why. the valve guides would be tight on a cold engine, but once started, ran for a few min's..i could blip the throttle, and hear a rattle noise. finding another head was the only fix..no machine shop can solve this..as the head is made for a press fit for the valve guides.

34 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

they are.  Certainly wouldn’t be easy to get into one without destroying it, but necessity is the mother…..

trust me, you will not get into it, without destroying it..lol. they are filled with an epoxy resin, and this resin is not very kind...lol.

most times when this happens, one of the speed sensors goes bad on the front diff. there are two of them on the front diff, one is right where the front drive shaft enters the front diff, and the other is located in the front, top side of the diff. if this is not the issue ?, then the 4wd unit ( control unit ) is bad.