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shadetree

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Posts posted by shadetree

  1. Posted

    2 minutes ago, bigcountry78 said:

    Yes I put just a very light coat of grease where it would slick everything up but not drop everywhere. I’m confused about this bearing race holder doodab. It doesn’t seem to fit back into where it should go. It’s supposed to go over the end of the axle, Into the end of the tube, correct? Because the hub isn’t sliding all the way in.

    IMG_5980.jpeg

    IMG_5981.jpeg

    lol..you have to slide this piece onto the axle BEFORE you install the tube, it goes on the inside of the bearing, flat part faces bearing.. sooo..do this, remove the left rear tube, slide the bearing stopper onto the axle with tapered side facing rear diff, flat side out, then install the tube back onto the rear diff. once this is done, you can now install the left rear wheel hub.

    • Like 1

  2. Posted

    11 hours ago, bigcountry78 said:

    Picked up some emery cloth and new cotter pins tonight, going to polish the cam, the backing plate pass through and the brake shoe pivot points. I’ll put some grease on everything and then put it all back together finally. Throw some grease on the axle splines for good measure.

    yep, i always grease the axle splines where the ring gear rides, as well as the brake drum splines, brake cam area in the backing plate, and where the brake shoes ride. be careful not to get too much grease where the brake shoes ride ?, or you will get grease on the brake shoes.

  3. Posted

    4 hours ago, bigcountry78 said:

    This piece? It’s tapered and fell out when I took the tube off. I was about to ask where it goes. As far as the drum? I have no idea what was holding it. Once I got the axle out and on the tailgate, I noticed the drum would move ever so slightly. So I picked up the axle, held it straight up and tapped the end on the tailgate and the drum slid right on down. Not sure if I got the shoes in just the right spot, or if all the pounding and oiling finally took effect.

    IMG_5977.jpeg

    yep..that piece !..lol.

    • Like 1

  4. Posted

    1 hour ago, bigcountry78 said:

    Well, here we are. Removed the shaft and the axle tube, figured why not. Anyway it doesn’t look too bad to be as old as it is. It wasn’t full of mud and water, and the splines on the axle shaft doesn’t show any wear that I can see. I’m happy about that, since it had 26’s on it when I bought it. Anyway, stupid drum is still stuck but at least now maybe I can see what’s going on.

    IMG_5971.jpeg

    IMG_5973.jpeg

    IMG_5972.jpeg

    do not lose or forget to put the bearing race keeper back on the left rear side !. this is a very important piece to keep the hub and wheel on !..lol. its flat on one side, tapered on the other side. flat side faces out towards hub.

    • Like 2

  5. Posted

    15 minutes ago, bigcountry78 said:

    Success fellas, success!! Many thanks to the good people here that gave advice. I managed to get everything apart without breaking anything. And I think I found the problem. So, what can I put everything back together with to make sure it works as well and as long as possible? Axle grease? Antiseize? Something else that’ll slick everything up? I’ve hit all the pivot points with a wire brush and I’m going to get some sand paper and carb cleaner to make sure everything is as smooth as it can be before it goes back together.

    IMG_5974.jpeg

    IMG_5975.jpeg

    IMG_5976.jpeg

    what did you discover keeping the brake drum from coming off ?. a bench grinder with a wire wheel is what i clean up alot of brake parts with. as for the inside of the brake drum, i use my dremel with a grinding stone to knock off the rust/build up. if you do not have a dremel ?, just use some 220 grit sand paper, but this will take a few min's to get down to bare metal..lol.

  7. Posted

    2 minutes ago, bigcountry78 said:

    Well now there’s another thing to try. Might try that next, and then remove the entire axle as a last resort. Brakes shouldn’t be this hard to fix.

    yeah, just unbolt the backing plate..slide it off the axle..it should all come off in one piece, then you will just have the drum stuck on the backing plate, with the shoes holding it on the drum.

  8. Posted

    5 minutes ago, bigcountry78 said:

    Do you have a sure fire way of making sure the shoes are not holding the drum on? I have no idea what way the shoes are oriented because I can see anything going on back there.

    the way i do it: i center the brake cam , by doing this..i mean working the brake cam back and forth while i turn the drum, you can feel when the shoes are rubbing the drum on the inside. try to get the brake shoes centered in this process, when you get them centered, you will know this when the drum spins real easy, from here on out..its just a matter of prying the drum off...if the spring is catching on the shoes ?, you will have to hammer and carefully pry the drum off, over the spring clip.

    • Like 1

  10. Posted

    21 minutes ago, bigcountry78 said:

    Well crap, that’s just my luck. Thanks guys, that’s why ya’ll are awesome, the knowledge here is amazing. I guess I’ll try again tomorrow. Like I’ve said earlier, I’m confused about why this thing is being so difficult. It all came apart so easily earlier this year.

    if that large retainer clip is hanging up on the edge of the brake shoes ?, this is why it won't come off. just remove the left rear axle nut and wheel. unbolt the brakes backing plate, slide the whole axle and brake, backing plate all off in one piece. then you can hammer the axle out of the brake drum. once this is done, then you can get an idea as to why the drum wont come off ?. chances are..the drum is hanging up on the large spring clip like i said.

  11. Posted

    1 minute ago, jeepwm69 said:

     

    There's a flange on the axle that won't allow the axle shaft to push through the backing plate.   With the backing plate unbolted it will all come out together, axle, backing plate, and drum.

    350 axle.jpg

    haha...was just fixing to post a pic of the axle, and explain it to him why it wont come out..lol.

    • Like 1

  12. Posted

    Just now, bigcountry78 said:

    I was hoping that by leaving the backing plate bolted in place that the shaft would slide through and out with the drum in place. Next I’ll unbolt the backing plate and see if it’ll move then. Then maybe I can slide the backing plate off to the left and get in there to get the drum off. I’m trying really hard to not break the backing plate. 

    you cannot slide the axle out of the backing plate, there is a bearing on the inside of the backing plate for one, and for two, the axle has a raised part on it keeping it from coming all the way out through the backing plate. the axle HAS to go inwards in order to get the brakes backing plate off.

    • Like 1

  13. Posted

    3 hours ago, bigcountry78 said:

    Well, I’ve heated this thing up, beat on it, soaked it in pb blaster, and it’s not budging. At all. I can still move the cam with a screwdriver so it’s not touching the brake pads, it’s just stuck. Any more ideas before I just set the whole thing on fire?

    yep, but you are not going to like it..lol. pull the whole drum and axle out of the rear diff, then use a press to press the axle out of the drum. BEFORE YOU DO THIS ! : BE SURE THE BRAKE SHOES ARE NOT HOLDING THE DRUM ON ?!. just because you can move the brake cam, does not mean the brake shoes are stopping the drum from coming off ?!. the inside of the brake drum has a metal stopper ring on the edge, it had hang up on the brake shoes once its close to the edge of the brake shoes.

    • Like 2

  14. Posted

    7 hours ago, Tj701 said:

    Hi I have a 2005 foreman 500es that shifts up and down gears electronically fine but will not shift to reverse electronically. It wil shift manually into reverse just fine.

    The previous owner replaced the angle sensor I have replaced the shift controller I’ve checked fuses looked for broken wires the shift motor still works as previously stated for the forward gears.


    if anyone has any advice it would be appreciated before I either build a permanent manual shifter or buy a bypass kit or a new ecm🤷😂 thanks.

     

    see if the reverse cable is working correctly ?. if its not pullling the lever back far enough ?, then its posb the shift motor is not clearing the reverse lever.

    • Like 1

  19. Posted

    5 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

    Front driveshaft splines might be slipping, causing intermittent power to front wheels.

     

    In my experience that would be more likely that actual differential problems.

    most front diff's on honda's have a clutch pack inside the front diff, this is how it gets to be a limited slip diff.

  21. Posted

    3 hours ago, jwright said:

    The neutral light wouldn't light up on our Honda 2020 TRX 90. The neutral switch has been changed before and that fixed the problem before. A few months later, it stopped lighting up again. If you ground out the wire on the neutral switch, the light will come on so I thought the switch was bad again. After changing the switch again, the light still will not come on. Any idea where to look next, we tried to check the wiring best we could but didn't see any obvious problems. Any help is appreciated. 

    where are you buying these switches from ?, if you are getting them from ebay ?, this tells me all i need to know.

    • Like 1

  22. Posted

    55 minutes ago, RustyQuadGods said:

    Just purchased an extremely nice 1997 Foreman 400 with only 1650 miles on it. I've been riding an '04 Rancher 350 4x4 for years and it does really well in the snow and ice.
    I went out riding in about an inch or 2 of snow yesterday when noticed it fishtails like crazy. My son was riding the Rancher and had no problems at all. The front wheels of the Foreman seem to be spinning at times but not as aggressively as the Rancher" front wheels.
    Does the old Foreman have an open diff or is the diff shot?

     

    your model is full time 4x4. at most, it has a limited slip diff on the front diff.

  23. Posted

    10 hours ago, cjnspecial said:

    2018 TRX500FA7. It will start and run fine for a few minutes, then it dies and won't restart for 30-40min. Tore into this afternoon and the signal wire for the coil isn't pulsing intermittently. There's 12v to the coil whenever the key is on, it's just the signal telling the coil when to fire that's crapping out. The prime suspects are now the ECU, loose wire or a crankshaft position sensor but I can't seem to find the CKP on the dealer parts diagrams. Is there one on this bike or is there something else sending a signal to the ECU? is there anything else that can cut signal to the coil? 
     

    The tilt sensor is fine, it's full of oil and the run stop switch tested okay as well.

    if you are calling the CKP the same as the pick up coil ?, i just looked your model/year/make up, i see honda in their wisdom decided to make the stator and pick up coil all one part ?!. and its not cheap...right at 500 bucks. you can find this info under the fich parts under generator, it is the stator that has the pick up coil.

  24. Posted

    9 hours ago, Bman said:

    The more I looked at it the more I do want to change out the pinion. Like I say the edges of the teeth are worn down to points instead of them being flat.   But between the gear set, the shims,  and the seals id be right the same as just buying one of those replacement differentials. 

     

    Gonna do some research on those diffs and see if they have any good reviews. 

    keep in mind, the trx400fm has the same rear diff as the trx450fm. check with power sports nation for a used rear diff before you buy a china rear diff !.

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