shadetree

oil temp sensor is bad.

18 hours ago, bigcountry78 said:

I tried the ratchet strap and have had success before, but it just didn’t work this time. And I have a healthy respect for anything flammable anymore, I was trying to start my big bear with ether one time and it backfired through the air box into my face. Singed off my eyelashes and part of my hairline. So I decided to pass on that option.

using strap, if it leaks with it on, try bouncing the tire a couple times, strap must be 2 inch, and tight !.

14 hours ago, bigcountry78 said:

Got the tires mounted up today. I broke the old ones down and mounted them new ones myself, old school with tire irons lol. Not terrible, but not the most fun I’ve ever had. I couldn’t get the bead to seat on either one no matter what trick I tried. I ended up going to the local tire shop and paid them $10 to seat the bead. Got them back home and mounted up, and I’m happy with them. They have more of an old school look to them. They also seem to be taller than the mudlites even though they’re both 24” tires on the sidewall. I’m definitely going to look for some M977’s for the front. If anyone out there is close to Hickory and wants to trade 2 front Maxxis tires for my 4 mudlites, let me know.

a 2 inch ratchet strap wrapped around the center of the tire, tighten it down, tire bead will seat easy when you air the tire up, been doing it this way for many yrs, never had a tire beat me yet !.

59 minutes ago, Mach 1 said:

The key has been off 15 minutes, went back out and coil so hot, melted end on mounting post as seen in pic, any ideas? Looking for a shop,  no one around me out here in the boonies. 

this pic tells me you have a hot wire touching the frame somewhere ?. how or where i can not tell you.

On 12/10/2023 at 5:38 AM, adam said:

Ok... so I'm basically just after some emotional support. Someone to pat me on the back and tell me everything will be ok - but go and split the case again.

 

I checked all the gears were shifting fine before bolting the case back together. No problem. 

 

See, the thing is when you shift with the engine on its side all the gears were resting down in their correct position. But after bolting her back up I sat the motor right and had another go at shifting through all the gears. 

 

All shifted ok except 5th - which just spun freely. Then back down again and into reverse. All ok. Except no 5th!

 

Then I noticed the countershaft had slop. About 3mm of back and forth. 

 

When pulled out, 5th would engage. When pressed in, it wouldn't. 

 

So when the motor was on its belly, the gears were in the right spot and all was well. Until I turned her upright there must have been a slight movement along the shaft to avoid finding 5th.

 

I am just going to leave this here and await some comforting words of wisdom from you fine folk before testing it down again next weekend.

other than what jeep posted ^^ ?..my money say's you got a gear somewhere on the shaft installed backwards.

18 hours ago, bigcountry78 said:

That doesn’t sound too bad. Yep I boogered the end up pretty good on this one, at least it’s a fairly easy fix. I’ll fix it one day. For now I’m just happy to have it back together so I can use it for a while, feel like I’ve worked on it more than I’ve ridden it.

if you go the standing up method ?, make sure to turn fuel off !..lol.

18 hours ago, Mach 1 said:

Lol, good point, just ordered a used Honda coil to try from place in NE,(Powersports Nation), thanks Shadetree, think I remember you from different Honda forum, notagt was old name, thanks for reply.

we ditched that old site, made our home here. glad to have ya here !.

18 hours ago, bigcountry78 said:

Well, the adjustment must be about right so I’m going to leave it alone for now. Is it as easy as pulling the cover, swapping out the bolt, and replacing the cover? I’ll put that on the list for distant future. After I got done, I hitched it up to a trailer and put it to work around the yard for a bit. Shifts good now, pulls like it should, and the brakes work much better. Had my helpers out with me too.

good deal..now put them helpers to work on that atv !..lol.

welcome to the forums.

2 hours ago, bigcountry78 said:

Y’all ever just completely screw something simple up? Yep, me too. After I walked away and took a break, I was able to get the nut started but I’m sure the threads are messed up. Anyway, I think I got it adjusted properly, as the shifting is easier now. But who knows what the future holds as far as adjustments. How involved is it to replace that adjustment screw? I may do that in the future. One thing about my big bear, the adjustment was right there on the side of the motor where you could get to it easily.

front cover has to come off in order to remove that bolt. when doing this ?, you prob will need a new cover gasket if one is on it now ?, you will ruin the gasket getting the cover off.

1 hour ago, Mach 1 said:

Hi, new member here with an issue with a 2010 Honda Rancher 420TEA. Recently changed battery, idle air valve, plug, coil and wire, and fuel pump relay due to a idle issue.Ran great for 1 ride, 2nd ride, died at 30 mph, straight paved road, no bumps or rain. Found 10 A ignition fuse blown, changed, turn key , pop. After 5 mile walk home, started troubleshooting. Found if I unplugged fuel pump relay, fuse wouldn't blow. I put in a new relay AND changed coil and wire again ( aftermarket Amazon). Same issue, with dash blinking a line without relay, plugged in, pop. New fuse, then I disconnected the 2 plugs to coil ( green and black). I could then hear relay click and fuel pump cycle with normal dash display, plug in coil..pop goes the fuse. Disconnected rectifier with coil disconnected, fuse didn't blow, hooked up coil, pop goes the fuse.No wires chaffed, all tie strapped, could I REALLY be that unlucky and got 2 bad coil wires?? Any help would be appreciated and thanks.

first mistake is buying parts from amazon, china junk. 

3 hours ago, Lcarter114 said:

I got my rebuild kit from All Balls Racing. I have some weld tip cleaners that maybe small enough to try clean all the jets ago.

i use one wire from a wire brush, these work great, and will not distort the jet holes !. torch tip cleaners are too large..if you use the wrong tip size ?, you will ruin the jet holes !. if you are going to use gum out carb cleaner in a can ?..DO NOT SPRAY THE CARB IF ANY RUBBER PARTS ARE ON/IN THE CARB !!!. it will melt them !!..lol.

4 hours ago, gypsydog94 said:

Recently acquired a 2005 350 which has no spark. I have tried a diffrent spark plug. Is there a step by step guide on procedure to check ignition wiring? I have 3 diffrent wires coming into the cdi showing 12 volts. And all showing continuity. Is there a way of checking cdi? Stator? Regulator? Want to be fairly sure before chucking parts at it. 

other than buying. replacing with a new c.d.i. ?, no..there is no test you can do to them. is neutral light on ?. if no light ?..you won't get spark. you can check the stator by ohm'ing it out. only way i know of checking reg/rec is when it is running ?. seem's there was a video i seen many yrs ago about how to test them when not running ?. a service manual should cover all of this, which you can down load for free from the site here.

3 hours ago, bigcountry78 said:

Well, got out today and went shopping. I picked up the filter from Napa, and you were right, 4944. They only had one quart of oil on the shelf for $9 something, and they didn’t show an air filter in their system. So I got the oil filter there for less than $10 and went over to the dealer for oil, I got the Honda oil for $10 per quart. So $30 total for cheap insurance that it has the right stuff in it. Honda wants $27 for the air filter, but amazon has them for $12 so I’m gonna cheap out and just order one. That’s the last thing it needs maintenance wise I think.
 

I came home and changed the oil and then rode it for a couple minutes around the neighborhood. The off idle slip seems to be gone, and I now have rear brakes and a functioning parking brake. But, it does seem to shift a little harder now with the correct oil in there, so maybe it does need a clutch adjustment after all. What’s the general opinion? It shifted easier before the oil change, now it’s stiffer and harsher. 
 

I know it seems like I’m obsessive over maintenance, but I’ve always been of the mindset that you take care of what you have. And if you take care of the little things, they don’t become big things later. I also don’t know the complete history of this machine. It seems to have lead an easy life for the most part, and I want to do my part to make sure it lasts a long time.

adjust the clutch now that you have new/correct oil in it.

24 minutes ago, Lcarter114 said:

I got this atv from a friend of mine for free.  It was his son's and they parked it 10 to 15 years ago because it wouldn't shift.  The code came back angle sensor, so I replaced that and pulled the shift motor, cleaned it up and greased it.  When I pulled the carb it was a mess.  I  tried soaking it in Gunk carb cleaner and rebuilding it but it will not idle regardless of what I do. If I hold the throttle part way open it will run.  I am thinking maybe there is more corrosion that I didn't get cleaned out.  I am hoping a new carb solves the problem.  I attached pictures of the carb when I removed it.  On the bright side it runs through all the gears now.

idle jet is stopped up.

1 hour ago, RickL said:

screen on meter of 350 Rancher has gone dark. Need idea of fix

@AKATV is your man to fix it !.

25 minutes ago, Lcarter114 said:

I am looking for OEM,  just when I checked Ebay there were some that said they would fit but the last two numbers were different.  I will probably just go with the A41 even though it is quite a bit more.  Thanks for the info Shadetree, you are the man.

yeah..deff stay away from ebay carbs that sell cheaper, this is a red flag they are china carbs..china carbs are a hit or miss..most times miss..lol. you get what you pay for !.

4 hours ago, [email protected] said:

Thanks for the reply. I think I have everthing right except the ignition switch wires. on the Harness the 4 are Pink, Pink/White, Red, Black. Coming from the Ignition the wires are Orange, Red/Black, Red, Black. I am not sure what color goes to what?

if you have the correct oem harness ?, and the ignition switch wires do not match ?, this tells me you have a china ignition switch, which are very prone to not matching because of copy rights issue.

1 hour ago, Lcarter114 said:

I have a 2003 Recon 250es. (TE)  model.  I am trying to find the correct carburetor.  I have seen several different part numbers,  16100-HM8- A41, B41, B01, and B61?  What is the difference, and how to tell which one is correct?

 

Thanks

unless you are buying oem from honda ?, i would not buy anything else, unless its a used carb ?, then you face the trouble of matching the numbers. 16100-HM8-A41 is the correct part number that i found over on rocky mountain atv.

3 hours ago, BlueJay said:

Getting closer. I adjusted the clutch for the third time and the slot on the screw is pretty galled up (thanks to the PO). I noticed today that when stopped in 1st gear it is trying to continue to move slightly. I followed the directions in the FSM but is there a little more in one direction or the other to alleviate the load on the clutch?  The FSM says to move the screw 1/4 clockwise after resistance is felt CCW. Since the screw head is galled up it might be moving too far back when tightening the nut. Is there a particular direction that would “calibrate” it better?

 

Also, how hard is it to replace the screw on the clutch adjuster? I should have looked at it closer when I had the cover off doing the ESP maintenance a while back. After deer season ends I plan on pulling the front case and redoing the ESP again. Thanks. 

you will have to pull front cover in order to replace this screw/bolt. you can adjust on it all day long, but if the clutches are worn out ?, it won't make any difference how you adjust it. normally when i adjust my clutch, i turn the screw , while holding lock nut all the way counter clockwise, then turn the center screw about 1/4 to 1/2 a turn clockwise, then i lock down the lock nut. if the clutch is worn ?, it will take a few tries to get it adjusted good.

2 hours ago, bigcountry78 said:

Would the wrong oil cause the slip? And, has anyone had any luck with the amazon tune up kits? They have a kit that has 3 quarts of oil, an air filter, spark plug and oil filter. All supposedly OE Honda stuff, for $50-$55. 

yes, wrong oil can cause it to slip, just as well as a worn clutch. i never buy anything from amazon !..unless ?!..its been discontinued from honda ?, and thats a stretch even if this is the case, as most stuff from amazon is all made in china.

40 minutes ago, bigcountry78 said:

I posted about a clutch adjustment in the drivetrain area, but figured I’d address it here too. I have a very slight slip when starting in first gear, but as soon as I’m rolling it goes away. It shifts silky smooth so I’m not sure it really needs to be adjusted. The guy I bought it from mentioned it had a fresh oil change, but since I’ve been reading about people putting the wrong oil in, I’m concerned that he may not have used wet clutch oil. So, is there a distinct difference that I can tell by looking at or smelling the oil that’s in there, and would the wrong oil cause this minor slip I’m having? I probably should go ahead and change the oil so I know it has the correct stuff in there, but just curious.

just looking at, or smelling ?..no..there is no way that i know of if the oil is the correct oil ?. just change it, better to be safe than sorry !. it needs to have wet-clutch approved oil in it. after you change the oil, and its still feels like its slipping ?..which very well may be ?, we'll get ya fixed up on that.

Just now, _Wilson_™ said:

My small add lol! .... stay way clear of Haynes and clymers manuals... lol! Go for the real McCoy...as Shade recommended. 

well..i use alot of clymers manuals, and to this day..i have no issues understanding them ?, then again..i also know '' most '' honda atvs by heart..soo..take it for what its worth.

3 minutes ago, bigcountry78 said:

lol yea after I posted that I sat there and studied it and it dawned on me that it went on the axle first, then the tube, then the hub. So now I look like a goober. No, I don’t have a service manual, I’m just winging it. 

rofl. you can download the service manual from our site here for free !. i must give credit where credit is due ?..you winging it is a sure fire way of learning !..lol. 30 plus yrs ago..i was like you..i just dug in..started doing this on atvs..but !!..i also was smart enough to get my hands on service manuals for the project at hand ?!. this gave me a heads up what i was facing. no..you are not a goober !..worse case..you learned real quickly from your mistake..and this means one thing..YOU LEARNED SOMETHING !.

i just have to ask ?!, lol..do you...or do you not have a service manual at your side ?..lol. if you were reading the service manual, you would be able to see how the left rear side goes back together. when you have been doing these kinda repairs for over 30 yrs like me, you won't need a service manual..lol. its all in my old memory ..lol.