slowindown

Yeah but that’s not what happened in this case. The lock nut wasn’t stuck in one place on the pin. Initially, the lock nut started backing out wit the pin. Then I screwed the pin back in, working it back and forth while using penetrating oil. Pretty rusty. Then the pin started tuning in the lock nut. But when I removed the pin some deeper threads caught the lock nut and backed it out too. So in my mind with all of that movement, the only way to get the torque right was by following the service manual and torquin the pin to 35 inch lbs and then the ring to 87 ft lbs. Instead of blowing the $39 for the tool I could have bought a cheap socket and cut it with my angle grinder and saved $30 but I decided just to buy the tool

Believe me that would’ve been my preferred method. But like I mentioned earlier, when I loosened the Allen pin, the lock nut came with it. So, the method you mentioned was impossible for me.

After I replaced my swing arm boot, I got to put the machine through its paces. I could not replicate the problem. It shifts great. Thanks so much!

Well the socket came in so I could feel my torque wrench click once. I then through the tool in the toolbox where I will find it in 15 years and wonder what it was for. . . lol

Guys, I really appreciate all of the pointers. I left the shock bolted up. I used a jack under the rear with a piece of plywood like in fishfiles pic earlier in the thread. Then I used a smaller jack near the front of the swing arm so that I could really control the angle. And I took a ratchet strap and hooked one end around the shock. The ratchet end I connected to the frame near the fan. This allowed me to pull the swingarm forward and counteract the push away by the shock - just had to be careful routing the strap. So, I was able to line up everything pretty easily and get the driveshaft/u-joint back on the outputshaft and the Allen bolt pins into the swingarm bearings. The swing arm bearings turned smoothly and rear engine seal didn't seem to be leaking. So I'm good there. I went ahead and ordered the locknut tool since it started coming out when I removed the right side Allen bolt/pin. It should be delivered tomorrow or Saturday and I can torque the right side.

Hey, thanks! Didn't think about that. It's only 7.95 shipping to me, so I'll probably get it there. I've got some other stuff to put on order too, new tank decals, maybe; and some other little things. Heck, I'll probably hit the free shipping mark anyway.

Wow! What an amazing "gizmo"! And the time, patience and skills! I'm very impressed. If I'm using my rancher to spray fence, creeping around in 1st or 2nd, I never know if the fans coming on at the right time or not. It doesn't seem to come on as often as when newer.

I looked on ebay. A new one is right at $70, including shipping. The one or two used ones weren't a whole lot less. If no one on here has one, I'll check prices at my semi-local dealer the next time I run up there. Mine isn't horrible and I could stitch it with little zip ties but I prefer not to.

Huh? No one that I saw said it was wrong. I certainly didn't say anyone said it was wrong. Did I?

I don’t particularly want to buy a new one if someone has a good used one for a fair price. Shipping would be to 39666, Summit, MS.

There is nothing wrong with merely reprogramming a meter on an ATV. If one were to have their’s changed to trick someone into buying it for a higher price and because of that someone bought it, then the seller has engaged in fraud. But AKATV is not assisting people in doing that. Jeepwm69 is spot on.

@AKATVRight. Except that it was a leftover 02 that a guy had bought and had used for a couple of years. It had about 900 miles on it and still looked new. I've had it since 05. So, I've had it 15 years. I wanted my miles and hours intact. I'm particular about everything working on a machine, if possible. Frankly, even if it weren't for the price of a new gauge, I still would have preferred to have my old one working with the correct information on it. It's nice having the speedo too. And if I ever do go to sell it, I don't want to have to be explaining to someone why the miles are different than the gauge. I know the buyer would be real skeptical when I told them what I thought the miles were when changed out.

Has anyone tried Knock'r Loose? I have a friend who swears by it. I think CRC makes it. I was going to buy some at NAPA the other day but they were out. I've been using liquid wrench and pb plaster.

It did not occur to me that you could pack those little shielded bearing. It made them much smoother.

Thank you!!

Thank you for taking the time to write that very detailed tutorial, retro. I will make good use of it.

Yessir. Thank you. Before I saw your post I cleaned the innards of the motor with the some CRC electrical contact cleaner and was able to hold the brushes in with 2 pieces I cut off an old insurance card and a rubber band and drop the armature in. But I’ve stopped. I’m kinda semi-educated guessing at this and look forward to your write up.

What is this bit of a trick that you speak of? I put the front cover back on and am going to try and regrease and put the ES stuff back on in a bit.

Well I got it out. It sure didn’t come willingly. Tapping it. Liquid wrench. Rocking it back and forth til it finally moved. Then rocking it through a half to one turn. More liquid wrench. Etc. I never would have gotten it without taking the cover off.

I got it lifted, barely. Lol. We’re doing family stuff so I probably won’t have a chance to get back to it til tomorrow. I picked up some left handed drill bits at harbor freight. I’ll probably try welding a nut on it first since I can get at it better now.

I got mine back yesterday and popped it on this morning. It was gone a grand total of 8 days from south Mississippi to Alaska and back. Before and after or vice versa pics below. 02 rancher 4x4 ES

Well I got the diff loose and the front drive shaft disconnected. Waiting on someone to help me lift up the front and stand it on its rack...

Thank you. Me too. I've not been having the best of luck with it.

I hope to get back to this tomorrow. I picked up some hondabond in case I need to remove the clutch cover. How do you remove the front drive shaft? It goes into the front cover.

Thanks. I'll try to tack a nut to it and tap on it. All I have is a little stick welder but it usually does ok. And yeah. My enthusiasm left the building. I probably won't mess with it until the morning.