slowindown

Well I ended up ordering the red from partszilla. I couldnt ever make up my mind and I do like red. Who knows when they’ll come. I made an order for various rancher items on 4/19 and that order still hasn’t shipped. So, I changed the oil today. No crush washer on the drain plug!! Luckily no leak. I texted my buddy who I got it from and said did you ever change the oil and if so who did it. He said yeah, I had the Honda shop do it at 100 miles and not long before I quit using it. Fortunately autozone had an aluminum 12mm crush washer but I had to buy a variety pack for $3 that had the aluminum one, copper, and a couple others, maybe rubber coated steel and plastic.

Well dang. I had never heard of any of the participating retailers in the drop down list. When I searched by zip, I got "We’re sorry, we do not have a participating Rotella location in your area. Please try another zip code."

Most of my pics are on my iphone and when I'm working on something and need a reference or to post a question I use my phone to take the picture. If I want to post them from the computer I have to transfer them, so usually if I post a picture, that post comes from my phone, unlike this post which is from my computer. I wear cheap readers for the last 10 years for looking at anything close - now I'm up to 2.0 power. Sometimes when I'm selecting pictures I put two pair on at once! 🙂 Two work great for small parts like carb parts too.

I've got a little 18V dewalt impact that came with my drill and a big powerful 1/2 inch harbor freight electric impact. Which would be better?

About the petcock: This one won’t turn totally off (neither will the one on my rancher) I have a buddy that went to replace his on his 02 foreman. The screws into the plastic tank stripped and he’s got to get a new tank. What’s the safest way to get them out? Also I saw repair kits the the one on the foreman appears riveted together. Anyone used these? Are the $65 oem petcocks better than the aftermarket ones?

Thanks retro. I appreciate yalls advice on the Shindy kits. See previous post. The china float valve is working good right now but I'm guessing the rubber compound on the tip is not as good as the oem or shindy one??? I found the shindy kits on ebay. I'm going to order one for the rancher and one for this foreman to use in the future.

Your point is correct, of course. But I really wanted to get it running today. Impatient, I guess. The only thing I used out of the all balls kit was the float needle and the slow jet. The reason I changed the slow jet is because I was afraid I reamed the stock one out too much yesterday with my smallest torch tip cleaner. The new one in the kit wouldnt quite let that cleaner pass. I'll order one of those shindy kits to put in the tool box in case I have anymore issues. It's running really good now. It fired right up and I did a two mile test run. I didn't have any issues with how it ran - accelerated well in the proper gear or in too high of gear, responded immediately to throttle, idled well, etc.

This pic was Thursday morning after the tornadoes came through McComb. Some of the guys from the office went and cleared one of our coworker’s driveway so she could get her car out. I used the trusty old rancher to move chunks we cut up.

Frankly, I just needed the float valve, I think.

Hmm. This in the picture belt is what they had and sold me.

I like the blue ones. But red, black and white aren’t bad. Understand I’ve lived with an Orange rancher for 15 years. Lol. I got a carb rebuild kit at the honda shop in Brookhaven. They didn’t have the 2 airbox sub filters or a float. Go figure. Huge volume dealership. My petcock doesnt stop the fuel flow. I’ve read horror stories about the screws stripping out in the plastic. I’m inclined to leave it how it is. My rancher is the same way. Any tricks?

So I guess I didn't clean the carb as good as I thought. It started but required choke at idle, or giving it gas. It was kind of popping at lower speeds. I drove it around the yard up through say 3rd gear. Backed it back into the garage. It idled a few seconds and died. Opened the airbox and pulled the filter to see gas running back from the carb into the airbox. Let it do that for a minute to see whether it was going to stop. It didn't. Guess I will see if the honda shop has a float and needle valve. Anyone know the difference between a VE6DA A and VE6DA B carb. Mine is an A. I see 2 different ones listed on Partzilla. There is a new one on ebay $20 cheaper than partszilla but it is a B. Do they simply interchange (if I end up getting a new one)?

Welcome. There’s a really good write up on here on bulletproofing your ES. I did it to my 02 a few weeks ago when it started acting up. Here it is:

Heat works on my orange rancher but doesn’t seem to do anything on the Foreman. I tried it on the pull cord cover. Nothing. I’m thinking I may get new plastics. I’ll know more how I feel about the machine tomorrow. What all years will fit (there’s some interesting colors out there)? I read somewhere up to 2011 but I noticed that there are different parts numbers for different years. While 07 red fenders have the same part number as my 06. A red 2009 Es has a different number. I don’t know if new fenders come with decals or not. I was thinking maybe the decals changed and that’s why the number was different. Any idea? On the foreman, I took the gas tank off and cleaned it. I finally got the petcock to work. Something that looked like pancake syrup was in the fuel line. Lol. All 3 filters in the airbox turned to dust when you touched them. Fortuitously I had picked up a new main air filter but I didn’t know the other two filters existed as my rancher doesn’t have them. I guess I’ll drive 20 miles back to the dealer for those. I think I got the carb cleaned pretty good and put back together. Torch tip cleaners and nearly a whole can of carb cleaner. . . Hopefully it’ll start up when I put it back on tomorrow. I did verify that it would start on ether before I took everything off. So that’s positive.

Thanks for that. I picked it up. It was in a barn that only had a wall on one side so it is kinda pink. lol. I’ll have the fix that. Gotta get the generator going now before everything in the frig and freezer spoils. Tornado hit the area last night. Power been out since 3 am.

I’m going to look at it now. 542 miles. 111 hours. He wouldn’t have abused the machine. But isn’t there an upgraded 1st gear you can add? How difficult is that?

Well, I've had my 02 ES since 05 and it is still fine. After 15 years of ownership, I finally had to regrease the reduction gears and it runs and shifts like new at over 4000 miles and over 600 hours. I'm not worried about the ES. I would go ahead and do Retros ES procedure though. My only issue with ES is holding a drink and shifting. LOL. And it's almost free. I may flip it or sell the rancher or keep both for the kids to ride when they're home from adulthood or sell both.

I may be picking this up tomorrow. It's one of my coworkers'. It has has sat in his barn for years. If I recall correctly I actually went and looked at with him new. He thinks it has around 5-600 miles but not sure. I assume the carb is clogged - ethanol gas. He doesnt know. He hasn't used it in years as he bought a big red a couple years after he bought the foreman. Is there any particular problems with these machines I need to be aware of before I get it. I'm familiar with the ES as my 02 rancher 4x4 has ES and I've used retro's method for bullet proofing it. Seems like I read something about 1st gear one time?? I didn't really know where to post this...

That looks nice. Do you have a before pic?

I've an orange 02 rancher 4x4 ES, which I've had since it was nearly new. The shed where I keep it is open on one side so it gets sun on it part of the day over the years, the plastics have faded in many areas. I have new decals ordered. I'm doing a mild refresh to the machine. In the past, I had made my blue, almost white yamaha rhino look new again by using fine steel wool, followed by a mixture of linseed oil/mineral spirits. I did a test spot on the rancher and this method had little effect, different type of plastic I guess. I also did a test spot with 600 grit sandpaper followed by a couple of passes with a propane torch, which looks good but I dont know if this has any negatives, like making the plastics brittle. Interestingly, the red plastics on my can-am commander seem fairly impervious to the sun. What have you guys had the best luck with? pics of before and after rhino and test spot on rancher below

This is timely. I'm doing a mild refresh on my old rancher. One of the things I'm waiting to arrive is a new set of grips. I'm glad I saw this.

By the way, they have a small inexpensive set of left handed bits at harbor freight in a little blue metal box.

Wow! Well I had paint pen marked the right side allen pin so I would know it hadnt moved when I torqued the ring. So I'm going to keep an eye on that paint mark for a bit before I put a plastic cap on it (had to put one in my parts order anyway as it had fallen off over the years). But I think everything is in there as it should be. I've done almost 10 miles just around the house, pasture and woods here and it seems fine.

Ooooooh! I get it now. I did not understand what that meant in the manual. The factory tool is offset. The aftermarket tool is inline like a socket. I have the aftermarket tool. So I set it at 87, I guess I need to go back and redo it to 79?

I'm really liking those orange a-arms and springs! My honda is an orange 02 rancher 4x4 ES too.