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jeepwm69

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Posts posted by jeepwm69

  1. Posted

    5 hours ago, krauseb said:

    Like everyone else I have a meter that NLA. Meter works fine it is just sun faded and can barely see the digital information.

     

    Welcome aboard.  Post up a pic of your meter on with the headlights on so we can see what you have.  @AKATV will be along shortly.

    • Thanks 1

  2. Posted

    Try without first.   If it acts like it's running lean get a programmer.

     

    I did one on my wife's 09 DCT Rancher.  I put a Weisco programmer on with the top end, but I honestly think it would have run fine without it.

     

    Didn't make much of a difference at all over the stock 420 cylinder.  Not worth doing unless your original 420 cylinder is gone too far to be bored oversize again.

     

    I was curious as to the 520 top end, but you have to either turn down the outside of the bottom of the cylinder (Reduction Boss sells those ready to bolt on) or grind the cases a little to clear the bigger jug. 

     

    I've gotten away from 420's and am sticking with the older machines, so never got around to the 520 swap.

     

     

  3. Posted

    4 hours ago, Mach 1 said:

    SUCCESS!!! I got in new OEM PCM today, along with OEM coil (x2), relay and idle air control valve, cranked right up and idled beautiful, coil stayed cool, no blown fuses. Thank you EVERYONE for your input and knowledge and motivating me not to give up..all back together so ride later after grass mowing..once again THANKS to you all who also put up with my whining lol...guess this thread is DONE..maybe it will help someone in the future,  I know personally I learned ALOT about my machine.

     

    It does look like a warm coil might point to a bad ECU on these EFI machines, as that Foreman was doing the same thing.

  4. Posted

    4 hours ago, Mach 1 said:

    SUCCESS!!! I got in new OEM PCM today, along with OEM coil (x2), relay and idle air control valve, cranked right up and idled beautiful, coil stayed cool, no blown fuses. Thank you EVERYONE for your input and knowledge and motivating me not to give up..all back together so ride later after grass mowing..once again THANKS to you all who also put up with my whining lol...guess this thread is DONE..maybe it will help someone in the future,  I know personally I learned ALOT about my machine.

     @Mach 1, mine was a bad ECU as well.   The track records for ECU's on these new EFI machines doesn't look great for the long term.   I've replaced one on a 420FA, and one on that 2012 500FE now.  

     

    Thanks for reporting back with what you found.   Buying a new ECU is always a little scary since they're pricey and not returnable if it turns out to not be the problem.

  5. Posted

    3 hours ago, Moose said:

    I found those grounding points.  I tested them with an Ohm meter and they all seem good.  I went back to my gear position switch connector to see if I could find a ground in any gear and nothing.  I guess I will have to go back into the rear crank case to see what has happened?  The switch I installed was new in the bag from Japan.


    When you have the machine in a specific gear, the wire associated with that gear should be grounded if you check the wire.  Troubleshooting info on the GPS in the factory service manual 

  6. Posted

    58 minutes ago, Moose said:

    Thank You all for the help.  I was able to remove it and replaced the gear position switch.  But I still can not get my atv to start without jumpering the neutral switch wire to ground.  So far I have replaced the small sensor on the front of the engine and now the gear position switch at the rear.  I am not sure what is wrong.  Now I am wondering if I have a bad ground somewhere on the engine?

     

     

    Hard to tell without seeing things.  You should have a ground wire from frame to back of engine, and another from starter bolt to battery negative.  # 8 and 9 here

     

    https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/atv/2000/trx450es-a-fourtrax-forman-es/battery

     

    You have an N showing on the meter and a strong green light on the N indicator on the meter?

  7. Posted

    3 hours ago, CadeH said:

    I bought the service manual before I pulled the motor out, but during the re-assembly process I broke the electrical connector off the solenoid assembly B and the solenoid assembly linear so I bought a new ones and installed them. Is there any adjustments that need to be made to the solenoid assembly linear (Picture)?  I also removed the valve body and cleaned it out. Could the clutches be sticking and need to be replacd? 

    image.png

    No adjustments that I'm aware of.   @toodeep you have any ideas on this one?

  8. Posted

    Ok, that actually makes sense.  You have two clutches in that machine (DCT, Dual Clutch Transmission).

     

    One is for 1,3,5, and the other is for reverse, 2, 4

     

    So, given that you started having this problem when you disassembled and reassembled the engine, I would guess you didn't get something back together right on the 2nd clutch.

     

    That said, first I'd do some testing and make sure that the solenoid on the front of the engine is working properly.  The DCT's run off of oil pressure to engage the clutches.

     

    Go to the toolbar at the top of the page, click on the "service manuals" button, and download the factory service manual for your machine.  We don't have one for a DCT Rubicon, but for your engine troubleshooting the one for the 2014-2019 420 DCT should work fine.

     

    Look in section 13, which will show you how the system operates, and then you'll have to try to figure out what exactly isn't like it should be.

     

    The DCT's are complicated, and a PITA to work on, which is why I got rid of the wife's DCT Rancher when she decided she liked my 05 Rubicon better.

     

     

    DCT.jpg

    DCT2.jpg

  13. Posted

    Took it for a spin and got 1/2 down the street and it started running like crap.  
    i thought “Now what?” but it would smooth out with starter fluid, so I drained the tank and put some fresh gas in, and after feathering it for a few minutes it smoothed up and ran great.

     

    Took the mini-me out on the farm, dug out a beaver dam to make her a “waterfall” and it did fine on that trip, so back to the owner tomorrow 

     

    Thanks again for the input guys!

  18. Posted

    3 hours ago, BigAxeJack said:

    It look like quite the process to split the motor, like a full tear down, but I’m willing to try. What other preventative maintenance do you recommend while I have the case open? The machine runs and shifts well. 
     

    I plan to get an engine gasket kit, assuming one is available. It looks like I need a special tool to pull the flywheel, but just basic tools for the rest. 
     

    What advice can you gurus offer?

    Timing chain while you’re in there. DID or OEM only. 
    Clean the crap out of everything.

    A cheap motion pro flywheel puller from Ebay will work fine.  3 jaw puller for the centrifugal clutch 

    • Thanks 1

  19. Posted

    You'll undo a bolt on the bottom of the front diff (14MM), a bolt and spacer on top of the diff (I think 14mm on nut/bolt) and the mount on the front of the diff.   I remove the metal bracket on the front, or at least unbolt it, and loosen the bolt so you can swivel it out of the way.

     

    That's it.   Pull the front diff forward.   The prop shaft will then just slide out. 

     

    Check and see if you need the prop shaft or the coupler, or both.  Also check the splines on the shaft coming out of the engine.  They should be square cut, not pointed.   If they're pointed (shark toothed) they're worn out.

     

    Used Shaft

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/296213716938?epid=1911839859&itmmeta=01HVRVTQP5BSREC4RFXBMWHXNG&hash=item44f7b69fca%3Ag%3AA7MAAOSw9cRlxUff&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HJls4L8zrcD5BV69nyIFrpoNL4tguslMY9%2FXJBfvkAgiUjPZtgcCS%2ForBApuqsc%2FBFlBlCf0pzHMTAwMcoEBj6n3PkpDrg%2Fca9DB%2FOJ--3eGB%2Bz%2FdoDysjhrTzXWjxX2GfX%2BkoNj5r9WQQewOnV29CxZL%2FG7Z2vL%2FcYHWyb69QzRsULM4aqgwzJwzPzmkYmssvVhrXztzrjyXZv%2B3mXpBLWHUEw7yTLEUQL1CKBVh7ipWluy5w95VCYdFWCFxVV0I2HRA2X%2F2ZAeetS29FF48w0wyPQd0KAvW%2FqwHN0wQXOXukFt7B9UspDeyg%2BwZWpSQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR5L76pveYw&LH_ItemCondition=4

     

    Used Coupler

    https://www.powersportsnation.com/honda-rubicon-500-fa-02-front-drive-shaft-engine-coupler-40402-hn2-000-44196.html

     

    If you want new, part number for complete shaft and coupler is 40400-HN0-670 and it's about $200. 

     

    https://www.motosport.com/oem-parts/part-number/40400-HN0-670?mmy=honda%3Btrx450 foreman 4x4 es%3B2004&group=front-final-gear&qty=1

     

    Those are the cheapest used parts I could find, and the cheapest new shaft I could find.   Note that you need 02-04 only.  The earlier 450's were full time 4wd so the shaft is different.

  20. Posted

    While @AKATV is a magician when it comes to meters, that generation of Foreman has a couple of things going against it when it comes to meter repairs.

     

    First, the imprint on the meter (lines, mph, fuel gauge markings) are all imprinted on the meter, so IF it was worth fixing, and AKATV fixed it, you would have a blank screen with only the LCD parts showing.  It's something I could live with personally just because I know what the readings are from so many years of riding that generation of Foreman, but it won't look like new like the older meters do when he's through with them.

     

    But the bigger issue is the cover.   Originally that cover had a plastic screen and you could buy a new cover for about $30.  That was 05-08.  The 09 and 11 models that cover changed to glass, and the cost went up to over $100 even back then.   I know this because @basfnb broke my cover one day on my 09, and I ordered the 05-08 replacement to save him some money, and found the earlier part was plastic instead of glass.   Not a huge deal, but over time, Honda discontinued the cheaper plastic cover and superseded it with the newer part number, so the only available option now is the glass one. 

     

    Which is now almost $200.   The glass ones don't scratch like the plastic ones did, so that's nice, but they are super pricey.

     

    So were it me, I'd either buy a new meter, or get a used working unit off of ebay.  The cover is $180, a whole new meter is $270, so for what it would cost you IF AKATV could fix your existing meter, plus the cost of a cover, you'd be around the cost of a whole new meter.

     

    https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/37201-HP0-A71?ref=fde4620aaa662b7618d79129ee284d58ba6ce658

     

    I don't use partzilla, they're expensive, but their schematics and interchange tools are the best.

     

    Double check my part number here, but pretty sure here's a new meter for $229

     

    https://www.motosport.com/oem-parts/part-number/37200-HP0-A71?cc=us&cc=us&variant[HOE10IV]=HOE10IV-X001-Y001&utm_source=google&utm_medium=pla&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw5v2wBhBrEiwAXDDoJRNDAb1JmE9Ia2C784b8ys1y0gRWL2DxE51e-upHCv6PzOvWpBdNyhoChEMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

     

    New one on ebay for $219

     

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/184881537107

     

     

     

  21. Posted

    2 hours ago, BigAxeJack said:

    Copy that. Thanks for the wisdom!

     

    Regarding the front diff, I’m assuming I’ll only need to replace that female splined coupling (and seals, bearings, etc) if the R&P are good. 
     

    Regarding the final drive shaft, is the oil seal you refer to the one through which the front final passes? 

     

    Yes, that seal is under final shaft in the schematics.

    • Thanks 1

  22. Posted

    10 hours ago, Mrdaviemac said:

    shadetree

    Problem solved! Went up a size in the main jet and it has really given the thing a kick in the pants! Plug nice and brown now, runs much better. Pulls all the way to the top. It's not about making it super fast, just livening it up a little, which it has done. Not sure about the USA/Canada spec 450's but the UK ones are notorious for popping back. So much so that gamekeepers and hunters avoid them! Maybe it's a bigger issue with the UK Hondas. But all good now.

     

    Not what you want to hear, but those K&N airfilters are horrible for off road use.  They allow a lot of very fine dust into your intake.

     

    I ran a K&N on a Jeep for a while.   Noticed fine dust on the carb throat.   They don't filter well off road.  They are made for the race track, not the backwoods.

     

    OEM or UNI only on my off road toys.

  23. Posted

    9 hours ago, Moose said:

    No airbox and carb are still in place.  Do I need to remove them?

     

    Yeah I think you’ll find it 1000% easier to do what you need with them out of the way.  Easier to remove the airbox and carb than the swingarm.  You should be able to just remove the alternator cover to get to the gear position switch.

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