jeepwm69

Was out of town for a few days visiting the in-laws.  Going to try to dig back into this thing this week.

@Melatv and @retro, IF one of these connections I redid is the problem, wouldn't I be able to check that by checking for resistance between the ECU plug and the wire a bit on the other side of the repair?   The rats gnawed the wires pretty close to the ECU plugs, and it didn't give me a lot of room to work.  

So, at this point, I can either buy a new harness, fix this one, or buy a new ECU.  I hate throwing money at machines.  If I can verify that my splices are ok with a resistance test, I'd lean towards a fried ECU.   If my splices are bad, wouldn't they show resistance?

25 minutes ago, HTM said:

Just want to say thanks to AKATV! He repaired my combometer. Now my Rubicon is running perfectly. He took only 1 day to repair it, less than 1 week total turn around time including shipping both ways!  If your 37200-HN2-003 combometer needs repaired AKATV is the guy for the job.

Yeah he does great work!   Glad he got you fixed up!

Welcome aboard.  The good news is, your front driveshaft being out is likely most or all of your problem. 

The computer that shifts your transmission does so with input from the speed sensors.  Both of your speed sensors are in the front diff, so the fact that you have your front driveshaft out means the rear speed sensor (in the back of the front diff) and your front speed sensor (in the front of the front diff) are recording different speeds.   The computer isn't sure what to do with that info so you get no speed detection and no shifting.

Put your front driveshaft back in and see what you get, and report back.

Welcome aboard.   When you do the initialization, can you hear the shift motor move one way, then the other during the initialization procedure?  Are angle sensor and TPS OEM parts or aftermarket?

Rubicons are a weird breed, and while I'm trying to learn more about them as I've picked up a couple, troubleshooting them can be quite tedious.  There is a guy who seems to know them exceptionally well.  He's not on here much but if we can't figure out your problem, that guy will usually respond to emails. 

Let's see if we can figure it out here first.

Should be able to order a cover on ebay, leave out in the warm sun, then use a staple gun to install.

i used to get them from user “kentscovers4u” or something like that, but doesn’t look like he sells on ebay anymore.

not hard to do.  Staple front first, then stretch as tight as you can get it and staple rear, then pull each side down tight and staple, then do staples all the way around to make sure it doesn’t pull loose.

I think @Fishfiles would just buy vinyl from a local fabric shop to do his seats, but not sure exactly what he would get.

On 3/22/2024 at 3:41 PM, BIG ERT said:

Is there a way to check it or what do I need to look for?

Gotta pull the front cover.   It's # 18 in this schematic.

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/atv/2009/trx420fa-a-fourtrax-rancher-at/gearshift-fork

If you stand the machine up on the rear rack it will sit upright, and you can pull the front cover off and check it out.  Turn your fuel petcock off and cap the vent line on the gas tank before you do so.

You sure you got the part number right?  Partzilla shows -600 for that model.

https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/34901-HP5-600?ref=c42eceee2efba0855ec94f260f23924e74c46a90

I know the Foreman bulbs from that era were Honda specific and no aftermarket bulbs were available.   That -600 Rancher bulb looks like a Honda-only bulb to me.

Looks good!  Bet that's fun to run around on.

Try baking your original CDI and fan control unit.   Preheat oven to 450, put both in with plugs facing up for 7 mins.  Take out, let cool, see what you get.

People have been baking them with pretty good results for a long time.  I think it was @AKATV who actually nailed the temp and length of time down.   I've resuscitated a 450 fan controller and a couple of CDi's that way now.

Welcome to the board.  Is your foam still in good shape?  

Yep, first thing I'd do is get an OEM regulator on there.  Even if you have to order a used one.   The aftermarket electrical stuff never works long on these Hondas, if at all.

2 hours ago, Kendallh said:

I looked and found the service manual pdf files, but for the trx500fa (I believe?) the year options are 01-03, 05-08 and I think 05-12. Is 04 an in between year? 

01-04 were the same, and 05-14.

that 01-03 manual was just the 2003 dated manual.  The 01-03 is what you should use.

It does appear error code 4 is TPS.   Have you downloaded and looked at the factory service manual?  There's a "service manual" button in the toolbar at the top of the page.   The 01-03 Rubicon manual will work for your 04.

I haven't had a lot of experience with the Hondamatic machines yet, but am trying to learn on them.   Most likely you have an electrical issue of some sort, but they can be a PITA to troubleshoot.

Made an offer on that ebay wiring harness and ECU, which not only was rejected, but then the listing was pulled altogether as "no longer available".....

The 2012 and 2013 were oddball years, so finding another wiring harness isn't going to be fun.  I'll keep poking around on this one and see if I can get anywhere.

3 hours ago, Kendallh said:

Doesn't matter if it's in D1, D2 or EPS it's only ever in 4th gear. I've checked the battery voltage and it's 12.4 with the engine off. Once I crank it up voltage is 13.6. No idea how old this battery is but it seems to be fine. I have noticed, however, the starter does slow down a bit fast during cranking so maybe my battery is a bit tired. 

I doubt your battery is the issue if your voltage readings are correct.

Did you try initializing the system yet?

21 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

Yeah..... i agree, im surprised no one has started just yet.... i think the standard price for the longest time was what ? Bout 395 ? Or in the mid to upper half of the 300 dollar range... and didnt seem to take too long before the price went in an atmospheric ($900+ ?! Lol!)  direction... hm..... i didnt know you had two... Interesting.... a tad bit of your pops habits rubbing off on ya are they ?  

I actually had three.   I bought one for my oldest kid (that 300 that Shade did the engine on), which is currently mounted on her 300. 

Had one for the big 300 I planned on building until my 29.5 Outlaws got stolen.   I traded for those tires, and at that time SamUK was going to build me a GR, so I wouldn't have a lot in it, but tires got stolen, and SamUK disappeared, so I don't see myself ever spending $1K on tires, and another $500+ for a GR to have a big slow moving toy, so I doubt that machine ever happens. 

And then I have the little one who is almost 5.  She'll get a 300 when she's older, so the last one is for her

So i had plans for all 3.   Big bike for me is unlikely to happen, other two are for kid's machines.

MSRP on them was $369.   I had two new ones and one used one that I put new bearings and seals in.   Sold one new one, other new one is on the eldest's 300, and the used one will go in the little bit's bike.

Welcome aboard.  Does it drive in auto mode?

You need a good strong battery on these for them to work right.  If you have a good battery on the machine, try initializing the system. 

Machine in neutral

Hold up and down shift buttons in and turn key to on position

Hit up, down, up on the shift buttons, then open and close the throttle within 5 seconds.

That should re-initialize all the computer crap.

See if that changes anything.

I don't think the valves really have anything to do with the mechanical aspect of the shifting.  They divert oil pressure to the dual clutches.   Is that correct @toodeep?

(otherwise I'd tell you to remove the valve and see if it will shift with the valve not in place, but I don't want you to do unnecessary work and i think toodeep has more experience with these than I do)

18 hours ago, _Wilson_™ said:

Yer right..... i just dont need one that bad.... he'll get that asking price.. no doubt at all.. and i expect prices will keep going up for those units over time....i recon ill keep looking.... i still think they might come back out on the market... heck if wide open were to see some of the post in here about those units... looks like they would see bringing them back with be a plus for them.. and being they were already making them it wouldnt be like something new...surely they still have to have some of the equitment ..... to manufacture them ? Bring them back and advertise.... i bet they would take off quick... add a plus .... carve some off the original price.... i know if they did that im be in line right now.. and im sure i would be alone...

I figure with what they're bringing now that someone will start making them again eventually.   Money got tight last month and I think my ideas of building a big 300 one day will probably never happen so I listed mine and quickly sold it.  Got me through the month and I still have a used one in the drawer for the 300 I'll do for the little one when she's older.

10 hours ago, shadetree said:

mines hydro as well, thats the part i had to fix !..and it was rough pulling it part by myself..but i did it.  and yes..i am by myself as well when busting tire beads down. i do not use a board, i simply drive straight at the tire, then get my truck tire next to the rim center, then turn my truck tire around the center rim bead, pops the bead every time. maybe you need a chevy tire ?..lol.

Honda made a hydrostatic 4wheeler.  You should get one!

16 minutes ago, toodeep said:

Does it have a long pause at the end with a -- and then the 4 flashes again? Have you shifted it manually to make sure it's in neutral and not stuck between 2 gears?

Video above worked for me.   Looks like error code 4, which isn't in the FSM.  You have any ideas?

18 minutes ago, BIG ERT said:

Thanks for the info. That’s why I’m so confused because it is 4 short flashes and no my fan is not on. 

Have a smartphone?  Can you take a video of the flashing and post it up?

Welcome aboard. 

If you go to the "service manuals" at the top of the page, click the links to download the service manual.  

Section 4-8 and 4-9 have the error codes.  There is no code 4, but there is a code 44.

Is your cooling fan on as well?  

I had a new 2nd/3rd gen I sold a couple of weeks ago for $800.  Buyer was willing to pay $900, but I'd had it listed at $800 so I honored the ad (he offered extra for me to ship it).

Sold it pretty quickly.  I think the guy that mods those to fit a 1st gen charges a couple of hundred bucks minimum to do it, so this really isn't a bad deal if you really want one.

That's pretty cool.  Reminds me of the truck in The Road Warrior with that front bumper.